Replaced torn inner cv boot for $6

[craptastic]

I just wrapped up this repair on my sister's 04 Outback and thought others might benefit from the experience.

 

The problem was a torn front pass side inner cv boot. I suspect that of the 8 CV boots on this car the reason this one failed first is because of its proximity to the catalytic converter and the massive amount of heat it radiates. So I'm assuming this to be a common failure point as far as these boots go. Researching how to approach the repair it appeared most folks replace the entire axle with a refurbished one. They claimed it was easier but I'm here to tell ya I don't think it is. Rebooting the inner joint isn't that difficult and can be done without even removing the axle from the car. Here's how I did it.

 

1. I bought a new boot kit from a popular online vendor for $6 and change plus shipping. It was a Beck-Arney brand and came with new grease and c clip and clamps. To install it I did the following.

 

2. Jack up the front of the car. Rest it on jackstands when working. Never trust a jack with your life.

 

3. Remove front wheel.

 

4. Mark with paint, fingernail polish or whatever where the strut is bolted to the knuckle so you can get the alignment back where it was when you finish. (Or just do what I did and rely on the outline of rust/grime to get it back into position)

 

5. Now see those two big bolts attaching the bottom of the strut to the knuckle/spindle? Remove the upper bolt and loosen the lower but leave it in place. (these buggars will be tight!)

 

6. Now pull the top of the brake disk outward away from the car and the entire knuckle should lean or tilt out into a rediculous positive camber position. This will provide the additional travel for the inner axle to slide off the splined output shaft of the trans after you remove the pin. ( you could do this after you remove the pin if you prefer)

 

7. Now pull your air box assembly and put something over your throttle body opening to keep debris out of your engine while you are working. Removing the airbox allows access to the axle from above. I actually did the entire repair from above.

 

8. Now you should be able to look down from above and see the inner axle joint where it attaches to the trans. Rotate the axle by turning the brake disc until you orient the hole for the spring pin vertically.

 

9. Knock out the spring pin however you choose. I used a long breaker bar with a punch taped into a socket on the end. Its not hard you'll manage.

 

10. Now you should be able to pull the inner joint free of the splined trans output shaft.

 

11. You can now remove the old boot using a scredriver to release the clamps. Keep some rags handy to clean up all the grease.

 

12. Once cleaned you should be able to see a large spring clip in the groove around the perimiter of the open end of the joint body. Remove this and the axle and bearings will slide out. I used my fingers to remove it but you can pry it out however you want just don't bend it.

 

13. With the big retaining clip removed the joint body will slide off the axle. Be careful not to drop the three outher race rings that will now come off the axle bearings.Wipe it all off and you see a spring clip on the very end of the axle. Remove it with the proper spring clip tool and the bearing assembly will now slide off the axle.

 

14. Clean up the axle and slide the new "small end" clamp and new boot onto the axle.

 

15. Replace the bearing onto the axle in the same orientation it came off and secure it with new spring clip. (provided with boot kit)

 

16. Put new grease (provided with boot kit) into the joint body and a little on the outer race rings to make them stick in place during reassembly.

 

17. Replace outer race rings and place the large retainer cliponto the axle so you wont have to fumble for it later when you put the joint together.

 

18. Now slide the joint body over the bearings taking care not to dislodge the three rings on the bearing.

 

19. After you slide it in you can reinstall the large retaining clip into the outer groove which locks it together.

 

20. Slide boot into place and burp out excess air and install retainer clamps.

 

21. Place axle back onto trans output shaft with the holes aligned and reinstall the spring pin.

 

22. Now push your spindle/knuckle assembly back into position and reinstall upper strut mounting bolt.

 

23. Align to your camber marks you painted on earlier and torque it down tight.

 

24. Replace wheel and air box assembly, jack it up and take out your jackstands, drop it and you are done.

 

For a visual reference the axle comes apart like the one in this diagram:

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j392/CABurdette/2004subie_CV_joint.gif

 

 

As you can see while not easy its a lot easier and much cheaper than replacing the axle. If your CV joint is making noise or is otherwise shot then obviously you want another axle, but if the joint is fine and the CV boot tear is recent there is IMHO no reason to replace the entire axle. You know you still have quality OEM parts and you know how many miles are on them, plus you get the satisfaction of knowing you have done it yourself.

 

As with everything YMMV. If you found this helpful click the "thanks" button so I don't feel like I wasted my time typing it up.

 

Edit: I didn't know where to put this so it's here. I'm confident if it doesn't go here a mod will move it.

[rae]

thanks for the interesting and extremely well written instructions for inner boot removal.

i wonder if it can be applied to my old 1990 sportswagon? I guess I will have a look at it.

in my manual it says to always replace "pin". but my kit does not come with one

 

rae

[JmP6889928]

If you split the lower ball joint rather than remove the strut mount bolts and use a large prybar (reads as 4' long pipe between LCA and frame rail) to separate the LCA from the knuckle, you won't mess up your alignment and it will go back together much quicker. If you have someone that can help you, it makes it even easier. Remove the LBJ pinch bolt completely as it fits into a groove on the LBJ stud. Use the pipe to apply downward pressure to the LCA and smack the side of the knuckle where the LBJ goes through a couple of times with a big hammer and it will separate.I've done about a thousand of them, and this is the fastest and easiest way to get the axle out. Once you have it split, it also gives you a chance to look at the LBJ and boot and replace the boot if necessary (if the LBJ is still good).

Just a suggestion but an excellent write up all the same.