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Request for last minute tips - brake job & endlinks


JoeFromPA

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Took me another ~2.5-3 hours to do the front endlinks. I struggled mightily to break loose the bolts with the car on 4x4s (suspension loaded).

 

Wasn't happening. I probably spent 1.5-2 hours trying to do it. I wound up getting 2 bolts loose - then the allen holes stripped out when the endlinks started to move around while I was applying alot of force to the bolts.

 

I then said to hell with it, I don't know why the suspension needs to be loaded to do the install.

 

I took the front wheels off and spent 30-40 minutes with an angle grinder removing the old endlinks. It's very tight, and I had to spend some significant time first grinding off the endlink then getting the bolt close enough that it could fall out - I had to grind right up into the sway basically. Vastly easier this way.

 

With the wheels off, it took me 5 minutes to install and tighten the driver's side endlink and then another 10-15 minutes to do the pass side (it had no wiggle room, so it was a real bear to get the bolt through the endlink and sway bar).

 

Tightened it up, put the wheels back on, put the suspension back on the 4x4s, re-torqued the bolts (God Bless Kartboy for switching to a NON-allen 17mm hex bolt).

 

Took it out for a drive - 90% of my clunking and noise is gone, and that's with the original bushings.

 

I need to go back to OEM straps apparently to fit the new whiteline bushings. At least that job shouldn't involve any grinding....or will it? :)

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Noo it won't. lol. i have the whiteline RSB bushing and no grinding was required. ALTHOUGH, i see that the OEM strap BENT? I suspect a DC pothole is responsible, but still. I wonder how much force was required to make it bend upwards without breaking it.
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