black318i Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 I have JEs and get very little clatter on cold starts. If you're in socal, I had mine done by AQ/Harman in Torrance and they did a great job. COld starts in the summer was fairly quiet. It's cold startsin the winter when it was like 40° or less. I had Wiseco's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 I actually live in Torrance, so that might make it a whole lot easier than leaving the car two hours away. If you don't mind me asking, how much was your rebuild, how long did it take, and what did you upgrade besides the pistons? I did a lot of things, so it is hard to break out. I also did a transmission (3rd gear blew up) rebuild and installed a cusco 1 way diff. In the engine: generally removal, teardown, assembly labor machine shop shortblock work valve job, resurface, clean, rebuild heads assemble shortblock 2.5 ACL Race Subaru Main Bearings ACL Race Subaru HX rod bearings JE Pistons - EJ257 - 100mm Bore. gaskets ARP Head Studs - EJ20/EJ25 killer b oil pickup Gates Subaru 06-07 WRX & 04-10 STi & 05-09 LGT Timing Belt Component Kit w/ Water Pump oil, filter, coolant NGK 04+STI /Legacy Iridium 4 dyno break in and tune Is everything on the engine. If you break it out it is like $4500. The tune was $450 (at Church), so say $4k before the tune. Maybe a bit more after taxes. That said, you should get a tune because if you've blown a piston whatever tune you have sucks. $4k is pretty reasonable, and much cheaper you have to wonder what corners are being cut unless you're in a part of the country with really cheap labor rates. Peter (Jamal on this forum) is the guy I dealt with and they did a pretty sweet job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RomanC Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Looks like I lucked out. Mike thinks its a PCV valve shooting oil through the turbo system. There was a sizeable oil pool in the hose between the intercooler and the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black318i Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Did you do a compression test? The same thing can happen with cracked pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RomanC Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Did you do a compression test? The same thing can happen with cracked pistons. Going to do that once the PCV valve arrives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RomanC Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Did you do a compression test? The same thing can happen with cracked pistons. How is the cracked ring going to send oil into the intercooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 I'm thinking blow-by. Your pressurizing the crank case. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RomanC Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Compression test results were 124,124, 120,120. Not great, but definitely not dangerously low. The next step is to replace the intercooler as mine is splitting. The car used to be Stage2 before it was sold to me. I will keep an eye on the oil levels, but hopefully the major source of the leak is fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Compression test results were 124,124, 120,120. Not great, but definitely not dangerously low. The next step is to replace the intercooler as mine is splitting. The car used to be Stage2 before it was sold to me. I will keep an eye on the oil levels, but hopefully the major source of the leak is fixed. That is almost certainly fine. Remember that compression testers can be pretty inaccurate, so what you're looking for. Being within 4 psi is fine. I think you have a healthy motor. Get a good, safe tune on it (I don't believe a stock tune or a generic map is safe) so it stays that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RomanC Posted September 24, 2011 Author Share Posted September 24, 2011 That is almost certainly fine. Remember that compression testers can be pretty inaccurate, so what you're looking for. Being within 4 psi is fine. I think you have a healthy motor. Get a good, safe tune on it (I don't believe a stock tune or a generic map is safe) so it stays that way. I will most likely get a tune from shamar, but I need to get a new TMIC first. On mine, the fingers are spreading and when I had a massive oil leak, the oil seeped through the TMIC, meaning that air is definitely escaping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RomanC Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 So I got an IPR TMIC installed, but the oil loss is still there. I am at halfway point on the dip stick after 500 mi after the last oil change when the PCV was replaced. I pulled the downpipe out today to check the turbo shaft play. The shaft seems to be solid without any play. I also didn't notice any oil at the turbo DP junction and the intercooler is oil free. When the motor was cold, I revved it up past 5K and then saw some white smoke as the rpms started to drop. Doing the same resulted in no smoke after the motor ran for 10 mins. I wonder WTF is going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RomanC Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Quick update. Had a few acceleration bursts with a friend following me, and he said that there is no smoke, but there is a strong smell of "gasoline and fireworks". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 It seems to be similar to this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2160188 But in your case I would say: worn valve guides/valve seals or possibly a pending ringland failure. Remove spark plugs and inspect them, if one is darker/more soot than the others then you have a single cylinder problem, if not it's more likely to be a valve guide/seal problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 When the motor was cold, I revved it up past 5K and then saw some white smoke as the rpms started to drop. Doing the same resulted in no smoke after the motor ran for 10 mins. I wonder WTF is going on. THe smoke was condensation that build up over night. That's normal. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RomanC Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 I suppose the sudden surge of hot gas heated up the condensation rather quickly and it started to quickly evaporate. Typically, at the same temperature there is no white smoke as the engine slowly warms up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.