compsurge Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 +1 on the new OEM shortblock (fredbeans can get you one on the order of $2k delivered as well). If it's going to be down for a while, you might as well take apart and inspect it. The damage might be severe or might be something relatively low cost to fix. You might consider a small loan from your bank if you can't get funds. Hope it works out for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Sorry to hear about your situation. I just had new short block put in our LGT. Subarus are crap from my experiences so far. I should've just bought CRV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 hmmm...my friend was mentioning something before when i was talking to him about why this might have happened in the first place. when i first pulled off the old turbo, there was no turbine wheel, compressor wheel, or shaft in the turbo; all coolant and oil lines were bypassed. i wonder if that added any extra stress to the engine from whoever was driving it before? she felt pretty solid otherwise. +1 on the new OEM shortblock (fredbeans can get you one on the order of $2k delivered as well). If it's going to be down for a while, you might as well take apart and inspect it. The damage might be severe or might be something relatively low cost to fix. You might consider a small loan from your bank if you can't get funds. Hope it works out for you! Thats exactly what i was thinking. I dident leave the engine running at all the way it was so hopefully the damage wasent too extensive. Being i may not have enough time (what would have been 30 hours or so (according to mr. buckaru lol) might end up being 2-3 weeks for me). Might ask around at a shop or two to find out if i bring the parts, how much theyl charge for it (preferably people i trust ofcourse) Sorry to hear about your situation. I just had new short block put in our LGT. Subarus are crap from my experiences so far. I should've just bought CRV that bites..but hows it been since? and yea, i cant drive an suv. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
authenticamd Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 So the original turbo was gutted before you upgraded? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 hmmm...my friend was mentioning something before when i was talking to him about why this might have happened in the first place. when i first pulled off the old turbo, there was no turbine wheel, compressor wheel, or shaft in the turbo; all coolant and oil lines were bypassed. i wonder if that added any extra stress to the engine from whoever was driving it before? she felt pretty solid otherwise. Thats exactly what i was thinking. I dident leave the engine running at all the way it was so hopefully the damage wasent too extensive. Being i may not have enough time (what would have been 30 hours or so (according to mr. buckaru lol) might end up being 2-3 weeks for me). Might ask around at a shop or two to find out if i bring the parts, how much theyl charge for it (preferably people i trust ofcourse) that bites..but hows it been since? and yea, i cant drive an suv. Look into machine shops or speed shops that specialize in Subarus and you should be fine. Take care of the small stuff and be sure to replace / flush oil lines that may have trapped debris. I read about so many people getting new/rebuilt shortblocks only to have them or the turbo fail again because of debris left in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 Look into machine shops or speed shops that specialize in Subarus and you should be fine. Take care of the small stuff and be sure to replace / flush oil lines that may have trapped debris. I read about so many people getting new/rebuilt shortblocks only to have them or the turbo fail again because of debris left in the system. Yea, would be nice to be able to be sure most if not all things were removed fluid wise. its either rebuild ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K1-RODS-BILLET-H-BEAM-SUBARU-EJ25-TURBO-SH5137AJJB4-/230596310463?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item35b09c75bf and bearings are pretty generic id imagine; hopefully the crankshaft is okay ) or, like frank_ster and most suggested, i find an ej255 or 257 with decent mileage and an honest seller that will give me some history on the car it was in and basically have a fairly new car (the body is pristine) Not sure if i should start a new thread or not before i do research but if anyone could chime in on somewhat hybrid swaps, i.e. ej257's in legacys, or is it pretty much the same? what kind of electrical, ecu issues might i run into if any? So the original turbo was gutted before you upgraded? yea XD it was actually more funny/mind boggling than upsetting : http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3466604&postcount=11 -------- Anyone have good experience with Royal Purple Synchromax in their trannys? Friend of mine suggested it when i told him about how it feels when i shift and thought it might be the synchro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 yes i know 2 k for short block, but the cams in the head are very important! if the clearences are loose you won't have good oil pressure. and avcs problems like i had.. so then you may need heads rebuilt also .. 2 k for a short block with stock internals .. 1100$ for new crank eagle rods and weisco pistons in your current block. or 800$ if you fix your existing crank. reuse head gaskets with a bit of silicone on both side or hi tack check the head /cam bearings. 5 cans of brake cleaner air hose and new oil filter and oil and your back in busness for under a 1k but about 40 hours labor !! Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 The ej257 longblock is identical to the ej255 except for the pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 Thanks for the link to your other thread. I have never seen something so retarded as a gutted turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lieutenantcolumbo Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 Thanks for the link to your other thread. I have never seen something so retarded as a gutted turbo. ^^Yeah, wow. That should be a felony or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 yes i know 2 k for short block, but the cams in the head are very important! if the clearences are loose you won't have good oil pressure. and avcs problems like i had.. so then you may need heads rebuilt also .. 2 k for a short block with stock internals .. 1100$ for new crank eagle rods and weisco pistons in your current block. or 800$ if you fix your existing crank. reuse head gaskets with a bit of silicone on both side or hi tack check the head /cam bearings. 5 cans of brake cleaner air hose and new oil filter and oil and your back in busness for under a 1k but about 40 hours labor !! That might sound like my best bet really. With stock internals, who knows if it would happen again. I like the added assurance that theres less of a chance that itd happen. Time to start pricing up either side. I guess one of the most obvious differences is, would i rather spend more time or money. Thanks for the link to your other thread. I have never seen something so retarded as a gutted turbo. Yea, last owners mechanic really shafted him with that one..whoever the poor soul was. My friend dident know what to say but just laugh...i wonder what Brian at bnr is gonna think LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Also, quick update: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/source-bearing-issuei-169481.html?p=3537143#post3537143 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 it doesn't matter how good your crank is your rods are or your bearings are .. if the bearings get to hot either from no oil, lack of oil and or overheating it will happen again. start dismanteling your engine, maybe the oil pickup tube is cracked or broken. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 actually now that you mention it...theres a decent dent in the oilpan, not sure from what...how much clearance is there between the oil pickup and the bottom of the pan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 uh like 10 mm ? just guessing .. but probably not a lot .. take a picture of the dent .. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 ill post up the picture tonight. sorry for the long wait, issues with the property and i cant leave the car in the garage area...so without the car running i have to find a shop; i.e. no place to do any of it myself. all really bad timing -_- anywho, id like to know if its at all possible to change the rod bearing without removing the engine. If it is, would i be able to check for scoring on the crankshaft enough to have an idea of how much damage there was? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Need to pull the engine and dismantle it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Need to pull the engine and dismantle it. Anyone to second that? 100% sure that i have to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 ya, that's what I had to do on mine due to rod knock. Had an idiot pull engine out, did timing belt/head gaskets and week later it rod knocked and died on me. Took it to subaru mechanic who does work at home and he pulled engine and found metal shavings in oil cooler (had to replace it since flushing didn't help) intercooler had shavings (flushed it out) short block was replaced oil pump had grooves in it, he's rebuilt it since he had spare parts at his shop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 ya, that's what I had to do on mine due to rod knock. Had an idiot pull engine out, did timing belt/head gaskets and week later it rod knocked and died on me. Took it to subaru mechanic who does work at home and he pulled engine and found metal shavings in oil cooler (had to replace it since flushing didn't help) intercooler had shavings (flushed it out) short block was replaced oil pump had grooves in it, he's rebuilt it since he had spare parts at his shop Just out of curiosity, how much did all that cost? Minus the timing belt and gaskets? I know prices arent universal, but just to give me a ballpark idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 the engine has to come COMPLETELY APART you can reuse all gaskets. just put a bit of silicone on the head gaskets both sides thin layer or use hi tact ( its a spay can ) if you car boged down and died .. your gonna need more than a changed bearing .. the rod is toast don't even try to reuse it and your piston may of smacked the head. not the end of the world but check the top ring still moves freely. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Thanks frank_ster..Im just really pressed for time so i have to find someone reliable pretty quickly, to rebuild. If i cant, ill have to just go with the swap. Im kinda getting lost in regards to decisions at this point. Def cant/wont sell it, just not sure of what to do PS: heres the picture of the pan i was talking about... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Just out of curiosity, how much did all that cost? Minus the timing belt and gaskets? I know prices arent universal, but just to give me a ballpark idea. He charged me $700 labor, and then there were miscellaneous things he did for free. My crankshaft pulley was cracking from inside out and he gave me one he had, some timing belt cover was missing and he tossed one of his on there. Short block was like $1740 with all taxes (brand new short block from subaru, not a reman) oil cooler was $180 I think he checked heads and they were fine, he also adjusted valves for me Just waiting for 1K miles to pass and I;ll change oil/filter and probably throw in synthetic in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad.rac3r Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Hows it felt since? That sounds pretty extensive but in the end very reliable if alls done correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Hows it felt since? That sounds pretty extensive but in the end very reliable if alls done correctly. Well there's no rod knock and me or my mom can drive it confidently wherever. I was thinking about getting used short block but nobody knows how it was maintained and I can't trust people cause I end up getting screwed I guess God felt sorry for me after wasting so much time/money on it and sent a decent mechanic who actually knows Subarus and works for Subaru dealership It's hard to find a good mechanic who actually knows what they're working on, not just a person who "take off part, put another part on" type of guy. What pisses me off most is mechanic that I've used to give all my business to screwed me over and I've always paid him well and even tipped him (I didn't have to) He left rag in engine bay once, left his OBD2 scanner on the seat (guess I should've kept it, but I'm an honest guy and gave it back to him) Guess what I'm trying to say is he could've done a better job of checking things over, especially short block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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