Geo_08 Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 My right front caliper was a rusted hunk of junk so I decided to put new calipers, rotors, and pads on today. The rotors were just some advance auto parts, the pads Wagner Ceramics, and the Calipers refurbished OEM. So After changing everything I took her for a test drive, and the pedal was mushy as all get out. I could pump the pedal and it would get firmer. My thought is maybe all of the new surfaces are breaking in,and maybe ceramics feel mushy when new. The other thought is I didn't bleed as well as I thought I did. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 20, 2011 I Donated Share Posted August 20, 2011 Bleed ALL 4 brakes. I usually open up each bleeder and let them gravity bleed for 10 minutes....then close them all and force bleed each one in the following order RR, RL, FR, FL -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo_08 Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 Yeah I probably messed up the bleed since I was doing this pretty well solo and in a street. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 20, 2011 I Donated Share Posted August 20, 2011 Yeah just let all 4 wheels gravity bleed for a bit. then close the bleeders and have a friend pump the pedal...then hold it while you crack open each bleeder getting the air out. You still have air somewhere in teh system. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo_08 Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 Bleed procedure being, pump breaks till pedal is quite firm, then another person goes to a bleeder, opens it and lets it pump fluid until the pedal hits the floor, repeat for each wheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 20, 2011 I Donated Share Posted August 20, 2011 Yes. I only pump the pedal two or three times though because you can pull air back into the system if you do it too many times. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 The bleed order in the manual is something like Front right, Rear Left, Front Left, Rear Right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 This is from a 1999 FSM, but the procedure is the same. And Baddog is correct on the sequencingMSA5TCD99L296.pdf - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 20, 2011 I Donated Share Posted August 20, 2011 Yeah but what I said works as well...thats what ive always done with no issues -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 The reason the .pdf procedures calls for the RF-LR sequence is so that you do the brakes operated by the secondary MC chamber first. The LF-RR sequence is so that the brakes operated by the primary MC chamber are properly bled second. If you do the RR-LR-RF-LF sequence, then you're not getting each chamber fully bled in sequence which logically could allow some cross-chamber air to bleed across the brake circuits. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo_08 Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 well the lf was the issue, all the others bled clean, but the lf was full of air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 "lf" meaning left front? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I have the same issues, but bled all my lines, new pads and rotors around...going to try bleeding the lines again to see if that fixes it. You ever get your pedal solid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Any time you replace your pads and rotors you have to burnish the pads to the rotors. It's very easy, just drive 40mph then hit the brakes hard. Repeat 4-5 times then drive around for 15 mins being easy on the brakes, driving after burnishing them will cool everything down. Don't worry about if they smoke its normal. If you do both bleeding and burnishing the brakes and still feel soft then remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster and check for MC leaks. If so replace it and bench bleed the master along with all four corners. GL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Otherwise known as bedding-in your brake pads. The "why" here The "how" here - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJBRANDER Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I just had to do this when I replaced my suspension (WHY DO THEY NOT LET YOU DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE FROM THE STRUT) and I had to bleed all 4, after successfully snapping the two rear brake lines (midwest problems) and snapping off both of the bleeder screws in the rear (after heat and penetrating oil) and replacing BOTH rear wheel cylinders (by the way if you do most parts stores said their discontinued but the sedan ones are the same as wagons) then I was able to achieve a stiffy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Aero Kroil for your stuck bits. Seriously puts PBB and ALL of the other penetrating oils to shame. Loosens stuff that are so rusted together they look and act like one piece. Check out the two-for-one offer in the link. Keep one in your car and one in your garage. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 One other thing I noticed that scared me the other day...when the car is cold I have ABSOLUTELY NO BRAKES! Almost went into traffic on Eola road by my house, I do not know if thise helps anyone. From what I know, I need to get the car in somewhere I can really look at it...Chicago weather doesnt allow that very much I burnished the pads and rotors, and bled all 4 wheels. I am looking to upgrade the brakes soon to the wrx and h6 upgrade with SS lines. I hope its no the booster! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJBRANDER Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 really man, bleed the two rears... I had this exact problem. And what part of chicago are you in? lol im 15min from the WI border in Lake County Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Haha yeah I know annoying person here! (me) I am trying to do that this sunday, need a new bleed screw for the rear left. Really, I would like to upgrade to wrx front, and h6 rear...but not quite yet. i jsut want my pedal solid again. I am near naperville/aurora area. I know around about where you are. You ever travel out this way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJBRANDER Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Haha yeah I know annoying person here! (me) I am trying to do that this sunday, need a new bleed screw for the rear left. Really, I would like to upgrade to wrx front, and h6 rear...but not quite yet. i jsut want my pedal solid again. I am near naperville/aurora area. I know around about where you are. You ever travel out this way? rarely, I work in Vernon Hills. And I'm in Niles alot at the Roadhouse bar. That's about as close as I get haha! Hey if you want to start coming to alot of Chicago car meets, we have a forum for all the chicago car lovers. jdmchicago.com they throw alot of awesome events out here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I shall join man, sounds wonderful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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