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alternator 3 pin plug


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hey does anyone have any info on exactly what the black/red,black/white, and yellowish or white wire do. im looking for the reference wire. im used to the reference wire showing 5 volts on it but these dont, 1 shows 13.5ish, 14.5ish, and nothing at all and not a ground. can anyone verify what is what?
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http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv146/bikerbri2009/IMAG0194.jpg

this is what im looking at

the black/red shows nothing, not ground

the yellowish one shows 12 constant

the black/white shows 14.2ish when car is on and nothing when off, not ground

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ive been doing it for years, its kinda common knowledge for an experienced installer. it helps boost the voltage a bit just to help with audio systems and such. it doesnt change any dimming of lights just boosts up the amp power a bit, plus electrical damage doesnt commonly occur til you hit 16 volts and higher. just super simple, cheap, and you actually see a gain. you put a 1 amp diode on the reference wire, cathode side towards alternator. 1 amp diodes drop .7 volts on any circuit its put on so it tricks the computer into thinking the voltage is .7 lower than it really is and the alternator boosts the voltage to make the voltage "the same as it was before" therefore having higher output across the board.
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i've been doing it for years, i haven't really noticed any shortened life, but i've also changed out for a high output alt or a couple of them so i can't say for sure. right now i currently pull 233.76 at max current but about 128 amps daily. i dont drop below 11.7 volt daily either but i do have a major big 3 upgrade, really nice starting battery, and a battery in the trunk for the system. right now im running a 9.1 system, but about to finish up my 13.3 system, possibly a 17.3 when im done. that will pull a bit more current. i have a alt that im rewinding to boost it up to 200 amp in the works, which will help get close to my peak. here's some pics of what im finishing up and have done already.
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kudos for a very clean install. It looks really nice. I see you use Diamond amps. I use a small class D 400w rms DA for my home entertainment system. Very efficient.

So if your system pulls 233 amps, then it requires about 3350 Watts @ 14.4V?How much did you dedicate for bass?

How much for your mid/highs?

 

As for me, (I'll show pix later) nothing that looks that clean. I just use a small ipod like device (no deck) hooked up directly to a 10V preamp parametric eq soundstream, which is then hooked to 2 amps. A 300W rms analog Lightning audio amp for mid/highs and a MMATS pro audio 3000.1 hooked up to a single MMATS dreadnaut 15. Box is a bit......huge I'd say. Takes nearly the whole trunk. It is a 3.5 cubic feet vented box. So yeah it's loud. I did do big 3 as well and use 1/0 gauge wires but I still only use one battery and stock alternator. yeah, I know it's stupid. Cost me a recone 2 years ago. So I have to always keep a close eye on the voltage gauge when I crank the bass. So far, only goes as low as 11.5V if I really push. But still, that sucks. I need kinetiks and an HO.

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the sub amps are about 170 amps, the rest of the 63 amps are the speakers. the 15 diamond is in a 5 cuft sealed box, and the 10's are in a .67 cuft box each sealed.

 

Are you sure it is 5 cu ft sealed box for your subwoofer? I believe that it would barely fit in your trunk. Not trying to start an argument or anything, but assuming you have a D615D(2/4) Diamond audio sub, they recommend 2.25 cu feet for sealed and 3.0 for vented. The picture you showed seemed more like 2.25 cu feet (unless the box also takes the spare tire well volume as well). Mine is 3.5 cu feet and it nearly fill the whole cargo. And I have a wagon. Plus 5 cu ft is usually for monster subs like a MMATS juggernaut 18 or DD subs, where they do recommend 4-5-6 cu ft Vb depending on the sub. That's huge.

In any case, once again your installation is very clean.

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i rarely go by man. specs. i build numerous boxes until i max out the performance of it. right now, that box in the pic is a 2.3 vented box i had for my 10" hcca. im choking the hell out of my d6. the 5 cu ft glass box will go inside the spare well, which is 2 feet wide, 2 feet deep, and about 10 inches height. im building it up taller than the well a couple inches to get that 4.5-5 cubes. that way i still have my entire trunk until i box it off and finish
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i had my 10 hcca in a 4.2 vented box maxed out and it was rediculous with the 2200 rms i was pushing to it. before that in my truck i had 4 15" hcca in 8 cubes each. and before that i also had a 18" btl in a 10.2 vented box which was disturbingly loud.
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  • 4 years later...
I have a 2001 Subaru Outback h6. Long story short. I had a bad alt and battery. Replaced both. When I pulled the plug from the alt the plug broke. So until the new plug came in I just plugged the wires directly onto the alt. Everything worked fine. Well the new plug came in and I thought I put them in the plug correctly. But the car runs we've driven it probably 60miles but the battery and brake light came on at the same time. I get 12v across the battery when it's off 14v across while it's running so I know the alt is charging. I'm thinking I put the wires in the plug incorrectly. And the car doesn't see the alternator charging. Does anybody have the right order for those 3 wires. I have a black/red,white,and black/yellow I believe. Or if anybody knows why these lights came on I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks.
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