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Car shut off while driving. No overheating.


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Sorry for the novel, guys.

 

 

Here's the scenario:

 

About two months ago I did an engine swap. This engine sounded great, ran great and not a bit of smoke or oil leaks so I bought it and took it home. I pulled off the valve covers and oil pan and sprayed the whole thing out with a gas/air mixture. I put on a new front main seal, rear main seal and cam seals. It got a new water pump, thermostat, timing belt, idler pulleys and valve cover gaskets. I ran some BG44k through it after it fired up to clean out any excess carbon and the engine was running awesome! I installed a manual oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on it since it was a new engine.

 

Well the other week the oil pressure gauge piping started to have a small leak due to having to move it once and reuse the compression fitting. I ended up trying to use black RTV around it to prevent it from leaking and that didnt work. It had kicked on the oil light, but I was watching the psi and it read fine and the oil light went back off. Well it happened again so I thought about buying new piping. One day it was on for about 30 seconds so I shut the car off and it went away. I ended up going up and buying new piping for it that day and when I went to change it out the new piping was crimped. Well I took that back and got another. It was crimped too so I just bought an entire new gauge. I installed the gauge yesterday. When I went to install it I had taken the alternator off and before I set it down I noticed I had forgot to disconnect the wiring on top or on the battery. It had been a long day with little sleep the night before so I started to take it off and I dropped the alternator on the radiator support and blew out the fusibile link. So I ended up making a new one with new fusible link wiring from autozone and it ran perfectly yesterday.

 

 

So today it had been running awesome all morning and I went to my girlfriend's house. Well it was time for church so we left. Now I know it's an old car that I just recently swapped the engine on so I got up to 40 and I sped up pretty slowly up to 50 when the sign changed speeds and the car started to feel a little laggy and went away so I drove a bit further to see if it'd do it again and four seconds later it started to feel laggy again so I start to slow down to pull over and the engine shut off while I was driving. I put it in neutral and coasted to a stop without power steering or braking. I shut the car down and looked under the alternator and found oil coming out of the gauge piping. I started the car back up and it was running rough as I was watching the oil pressure through the gauge (didnt get to see the RPM's) and it was shaking...feeling like it was missing or something so I shut it back off after about 5 seconds. I ended up putting the old oil plug back on there and connected the line again and started it up and it sounded find. Ran smooth. Idled smooth. I drove it back home about 10 miles to my parents house and it drove perfect the whole time. I watched the temp gauge the whole drive didnt move after it got up to running temperature. I checked the oil and no milk and I checked the coolant and no oil. All of the fluids on the car are at the proper level and everything to my knowledge is plugged in.

 

 

Could it have been the leak in the gauge piping? Not having that sensor hooked up?

 

Anyone have this happen before or have any ideas?

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like you said old car, specially old leggys are just touchy, maybe not having it hooked up the way it was threw a weird reading and finally tripped some sensor to go ape shit. Ive been having a slue of problems myself. Most of it is me just wishing i left it the way it was.

sorry man not much help.

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By the way...this did not help. I'm pretty convinced it's something electrical though. The engine ran freakin awesome before this, but now it just feels like it's pulling a trailer. It has a weight against it that's holding it back. I can tell when it's going to stall now, but it's only really happened twice since that day.

 

Anyone think it may have been from when I dropped the alternator?

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I'm thinking what your thinking as far as dropping the alternator. However, I'm not sure why that would cause it to stall...unless it drained the battery. But, you obviously don't have that problem. "It's like wiping before you poop....just don't make no sense"....Larry the cable guy quote
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  • 1 month later...

The cars run well shortly if the alternator is faulty even with battery well charged, the moment the coolant gets hot that the two radiator fans should start running, the battery either drains too fast, or the fans just need alternator power. So without the alternator efficiency on the legacy you cant go even 5km on traffic, unlike other cars with fan-belt cooled radiators.

The car just goes off and several malfunctions. without the alternator or correct amperage to drive most engine parts you cant go far, i got a replacement from a garage and now moving fine.

Now am lacking the regulator to put the old (original) alternator back to work.

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Well it started acting weird again after that and I think it may be the catalytic converter. It hasnt had a problem overheating. It just bogs down and then shuts off. I think the cat is plugged or something.

 

So your car was doing this too?

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Mine was doing this but now is well, after the alternator change. whenever I would change another battery, I would again go another 5 -10km depending on traffic, but i never let my temp go too high, or fans stop running, for i realized the brake lights alone will make the engine go off when power is low.

Are the fuel injectors mechanical or electrical, i thought electrical, and if so they fail very fast on low power, or maybe the coordination off the comp

 

Had a similar problem to yours but on a different car, which later became the carburetor fitted gas filter chocked. only i don't know where all the gas filters are in a subie. probably try and change all fuel filters - should be probably fairer cost testing than the catalytic converter. (just a thought)

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I had changed out the filter about 6 months ago I'd say. It's under the hood near the brake booster on our cars. It has a new-ish alternator now and everything seems to be working for now. I'll give it a week and see if it bogs again.
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A crimped line where? I figured the back pressure possibility may be from the cat.

 

Oil pump issues? How could this be tested without having to use a gauge? (I wish I would have just changed that stupid pump when I had the engine out)

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In the "old" days I would start the vehicle and walk around to the tailpipe..........put my hand over the opening and see how much (if any) exhaust was coming out to see if my cat or muffler were plugged. Have you tried that?
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A crimped line where? I figured the back pressure possibility may be from the cat.

 

Oil pump issues? How could this be tested without having to use a gauge? (I wish I would have just changed that stupid pump when I had the engine out)

 

I was shown how to test that the oil pump is working well: first start in the morning, and count how many seconds before the oil warning light goes off -

immediately the engine runs on normal idling, no acceleration. 1 to 3 secs is ok, but 4 upwards needs a check up.

make sure your oil level is normal when trying, the 1 to 3 is because of different oil viscocity.

professionaly there is an oil pressure gauge for this purpose, but I havent come across it.

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