gutt-spec-B Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 does any one have a walk through or a link to a walkthrough for removing a 4th gen trans? i am taking mine out this weekend and have a general idea by looking at a WRX walk through but it was on an 07 wrx which has different everything, or so im told. HELPhttp://legacygt.com/forums/images/icons/icon9.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 This may help you a bit. Scruit's how-to video on clutch replacement. This is the front-end piece, but the WRX walk-through will apply to the bottom/back-end. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 I pulled mine out a few weeks back, pull the axles, drain the tranny, pull the driveshaft, DP, TMIC, starter, shifter, tranny mount, bolts. It really is that straight forward. Oh I used my engine hoist to support the engine, then put blocks of thin wood on the frame to rest the engine on. I also went cheap and bought the $60.00 tranny jack from Harbor Fright, hindsight, I shoud have spent the money for the $100 one. I seem to remember it would go lower. The cheap jack is about 8" high. Those are estimates from my memory, actural numbers are in the ballpark. I have big jack stands the 12,000lb ones from Harbor Fright so the car is pretty high but I think it will still be hard to slide the tranny under the car and get it up on the tranny jack. I should have the tranny back soon. I did use the tranny jack to R&R the rear diff, it worked well for that. If I think of anything else I'll add it. If you have the tools and a place to do this, and are good with tools you can do it. OH yea, PB Blaster and anti-sieze compound are your friends, use them all you can... Another tip, most car magazines seem to have a 20% off coupon for Harbor Fright in them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbang Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 When I pulled mine by myself it was suuuuuuper fun. I drained the tranny before I pulled the axles just due to the fact I didn't want tranny fluid leaking out the sides of the tranny. I had the same issue with getting the transmission out from under the car so I could split the case. I had a Torin floor transmission jack and I could not get the bellhousing to clear under the car. Ended up buying a cheap furniture blanket from the hardware store--put the tranny on that, dragged it out from under the car, beat it with a rubber mallet and made it my biznatch, then the fun part was dragging the tranny back under the car and getting it back onto the tranny jack...by myself. Definitely doable if you have the space, time, good tools, and Jim Beam. Edit: the one thing that will be fun is getting the axle ends to clear the transmission without taking apart the hubs. It's doable but you have to be very careful you don't wreck the axle seals. The first time I pulled the tranny for clutch, axle seals were fine. Second time to replace some internals and do a full reseal, I destroyed one...but luckily I had a full seal kit from subaru so it was no biggie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Yea, I thought that draining the tranny was pretty much know to be the first thing you do. I pulled the axles completely out of the car. I have a 5lb hammer that is good at hittting the LCA and popping the ball joint free. I also had to remove the AVO steering brace and end links. Before hitting the LCA by the ball joint put the nut back on the stud. You'll find out why... After you given the LCA a few good wracks try the pop the ball joint out. It's not clear that it has popped free. It may take a good number of hits to get it to pop free. I also have learned you need a good impact gun to spin the castle nut free on the ball joint. The axle nut should be broke free before you start the job. Then drain the tranny. Once you get the axle nut free and the tranny drain plug out, it's not to bad of a job. You do have air tools right ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 The axle nut should be broke free before you start the job. Then drain the tranny. Once you get the axle nut free and the tranny drain plug out, it's not to bad of a job. You do have air tools right ? Just don't undo the axle nut while there's a load on the front wheels. Undo the crimp in the nut and just break the initial friction loose on the nut (NMT 1/4 turn or less). Then take it off with an air gun when you have the car in the air and the wheels off the car. Otherwise, you could bork your wheel bearings in their races. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Are you changing a clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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