Max Capacity Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Is this just a 4th gen problem? I am mentioning it to wagon owners when I see them (which is pretty much an hourly event here in Portland), and one guy who'd bought the car used was told by the first owner that the wiring harness had already been replaced. Not sure if 4th gen Outbacks, 10-14's have the same issue ??? that's a different forum. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therieldeal Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Well, yesterday, just before the first snow storm of the year, my rear wiper stopped working. A quick search of the forum after finishing snowblowing this morning has landed me here Debating between getting the $90 81812AG03B harness vs. busting out the soldering iron. Given the time of year, if i do opt to repair the harness i will probably remove it from the car, repair it in my (heated!) basement workshop, and then reinstall it. Definitely the cheaper option & would give me the chance to upgrade to higher quality wire. If i do replace a section of wire i'm thinking a couple feet of something like this would make for a nice, clean, long-lasting repair: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carol-Super-Vu-Tron-250-ft-16-8-600-Volt-Black-Multi-Conductor-SOOW-Portable-Power-Cord-09608-35-01/303512880 How many wires are there in this harness, where it passes through the boot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Be aware that the copper strands in the cord has to be relatively fine or they will break soon due to metal fatigue. I'd rather go for trailer cabling instead since there are often many variants to pick from there and it's designed for being flexible between vehicle and trailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 If memory serves, there are 14 wires going through the right boot. Just a few through the left. I splice in near the connector on the odd chance the break is not in the boot. I zip tie it along the original wire's run, run it through the boot with a bicycle spoke, and call it a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorWood Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 The first issue is to determine how many wires are broken. You are aware of one thing not working, but there is also the cyclops light, back-up lights, gate latch, gate closed sensor, etc. Have you popped the boot yet to look at them. Most here found several broken and several damaged. At one point, my rear wiper and backup lights were both broken, and the wiper cycled when I put the car in reverse as the loose ends contacted each other. In my mind, the labor to unclip and replace the harness is about the same as fixing (note, different than repairing here) the necessary wires. I used 16 gauge trailer wire bought at a local store in the auto department. If necessary, borrow a garage for a few hours. Some here report that the replacement harness comes with the boot in place in the middle. Just make sure that it can be reinserted once repaired, which is why I decided to fix mine in place. And welcome to the club (growing with each passing day). Well, yesterday, just before the first snow storm of the year, my rear wiper stopped working. A quick search of the forum after finishing snowblowing this morning has landed me here Debating between getting the $90 81812AG03B harness vs. busting out the soldering iron. Given the time of year, if i do opt to repair the harness i will probably remove it from the car, repair it in my (heated!) basement workshop, and then reinstall it. Definitely the cheaper option & would give me the chance to upgrade to higher quality wire. If i do replace a section of wire i'm thinking a couple feet of something like this would make for a nice, clean, long-lasting repair: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carol-Super-Vu-Tron-250-ft-16-8-600-Volt-Black-Multi-Conductor-SOOW-Portable-Power-Cord-09608-35-01/303512880 How many wires are there in this harness, where it passes through the boot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 Seeing how the last post is 12-11-2017 Ill add to it. I have a good used replacement harness to replace mine. There are four broken wires. I will closely inspect the replacement harness and repair my broken one to have a spare. I have seen splice repairs and I dont like the looks of them. The cause is simple metal fatigue. Too many wires too tight a spot and all that flexing something has to give. Its more common on the right side then the left but does happen on the left too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveM Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 Its more common on the right side then the left but does happen on the left too. My radio reception has degraded substantially in the last month or so, so I guess my left side is going as well. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelven Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 My AM radio has no reception when the hatch is opened, even for a inch of gap..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 Yeah, I had my antenna disconnected for years. I was afraid it was broken somewhere in between the radio and the back, which would have been major $$ to fix. I accidentally fixed the left side first (I remembered some wires in there) and realized later that I had probably fixed my radio reception (I'd had an aftermarket antenna installed instead) and sure enough - it's all good again. Leave lots of slack, and be prepared to fix it again in a few years. I think I went with bullet or spade connectors the last time to make it easier to pop in replacements the next time.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelven Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Yeah, I had my antenna disconnected for years. I was afraid it was broken somewhere in between the radio and the back, which would have been major $$ to fix. I accidentally fixed the left side first (I remembered some wires in there) and realized later that I had probably fixed my radio reception (I'd had an aftermarket antenna installed instead) and sure enough - it's all good again. Leave lots of slack, and be prepared to fix it again in a few years. I think I went with bullet or spade connectors the last time to make it easier to pop in replacements the next time.. Aftermarket antenna? so you have reroute it somewhere else? i am interested to know how to improve radio reception. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 I can't open my tailgate to check the wiring. I have removed the access panel and pushed the lever down. I can hear the mechanism moving. The handle feels like it does when the hatch is locked - no resistance. Pushing forward doesn't help. How do I open the tailgate to remove the trim and access the wiring? Any suggestions will be appreciated. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djemzine Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 My radio reception has degraded substantially in the last month or so, so I guess my left side is going as well. Steve My AM radio has no reception when the hatch is opened, even for a inch of gap..... Wait a minute. Is this also an issue for the poor stock FM/AM reception? Any more threads on this, or images of the wires, diagrams, etc.? The 07 2.5i wagon that I picked up does have static and a semi weak reception overall. The channels are picked up, but there's a lot of static. What else is powered by these wires on the left hand side? Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 My take on this on a car that's 10 years old is to mount a separate third-party antenna on the vehicle and call it a day. A working radio reception is not hurting the second hand value - if you still are concerned with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outback2.5XT-05 Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 Wait a minute. Is this also an issue for the poor stock FM/AM reception? Any more threads on this, or images of the wires, diagrams, etc.? The 07 2.5i wagon that I picked up does have static and a semi weak reception overall. The channels are picked up, but there's a lot of static. What else is powered by these wires on the left hand side? Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. If I recall correctly the left side hatch boot has a water line for the rear wiper and a few electrical lines, and possibly radio antenna, but seems less prone to failure as the right side which is crammed with many more lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 Quick googling shows it's not a Subaru only problem. Afflicts BMWs, VWs, Volvos. Not that these are stalwarts of reliability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 (edited) ...I'm ordering some ultra-flex from mcmaster carr,... The 18ga (PVC insulation) continuous-flex wire (rated for use at -40F to 175F) at McMaster-Carr is surprisingly expensive: $48 for a ten foot length. Use this small-gauge wire in thermostats and electronics. It can also be used in automated applications such as robotics and cable carriers. The insulation resists acid, oil, and solvents. They also sell some ultra-flex wire with silicone insulation (rated for use at -40F to 300F) that is less expensive, but it does not seem to be as durable as continuous-flex wire. Fine strands and silicone rubber insulation make this wire highly bendable. Use it in applications requiring tight turns in small spaces, such as in motors. It is also known as hook-up wire and appliance and fixture wire. It is cheaper to buy Long Life Continuous Flex Cable with multiple conductors: Temperature Range: -30° to 175° F Insulation: Inner is TPE (thermoplastic elastomer); outer is polyurethane This cable is built to last—it has a life span of more than 20 million high-speed flex cycles. Use when continuous movement is required in automated equipment such as robotics and cable carriers. The insulation resists abrasion, chemicals, and oil. A 5ft length of 18-3 cable contains 15ft of wire for $27.50 Searching at http://www.mcmaster.com using "automation cable" and "automation wire" turns up a lot of interesting choices. If using crimp type butt connectors, the type with crimped insulation support is a superior choice I think. Some people might consider it overkill. One example would be the PIDG series from AMP: https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/pidg-series/10333 PIDG Series splices are made of a one-piece construction. Splices have insulation support which permits the lead to bend without breaking. To be used where vibration/temperature requires positive insulation support. Molex also has a similar high quality connector in their Avikrimp series, at a lower price than the one from AMP https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/avikrimp-series/10191 Edited November 12, 2018 by outahere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelven Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 Wait a minute. Is this also an issue for the poor stock FM/AM reception? Any more threads on this, or images of the wires, diagrams, etc.? The 07 2.5i wagon that I picked up does have static and a semi weak reception overall. The channels are picked up, but there's a lot of static. What else is powered by these wires on the left hand side? Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Another essential thing (it is something control by the wiring on the passenger side, I have lost track of what went out, this is the 5th repair in my 9 years of ownership) went out before the end of summer. So rather than fixing potentially more broken wires in the cold, I fixed them before fall/winter hits. Since I am there already, I opened up the driver side and discovered the antenna itself was fine (which i have fixed before), but there are two+ ground wires that were broken. As soon as the ground wires were fixed, receptions to AM and FM are back to normal. Side note: my colleague was having problem with their recently acquired 2008 wagon. Car starts but could not shift out from P. It turns out the wire for top mount brake light was broken and prevent it from shifting out of P. I have experience with broken brake light that prevent Subaru from starting/shifting out of auto transmission. So, as soon as i told them to check the wiring, their mechanic fixed their problem in 15mins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subman101 Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 Slipped two lengths of wire down through the rubber accordion boot (taped them to a flexible yet stiff picture rail wire and pushed them through) and using butt connectors crimped the 2 individual new wires to bridge the broken wires. To sum up 4 butt connectors and about a foot of replacement wire and my two broken wires are now joined. There is no need to cut the accordion boot. Now my rear lift gate locks remotely and my high mount brake light works. Radio Shack can be a convenient source for butt connectors and light gauge wire. Hi I was wondering if you knew what gauge the wires running through the accordion boot were so I could purchase the same type? Realize this is quite old but it would be super helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lagwagon Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 Hi I was wondering if you knew what gauge the wires running through the accordion boot were so I could purchase the same type? Realize this is quite old but it would be super helpful! I believe mine were 18AWG but after the second failure of all wires being cut I replaced the section through the bellows with 12 or 14AWG. It was a bit tighter fit but its been 2 years now with no further problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 My rear wiper and rear defroster stopped working last winter. After some procrastination I finally ordered a new harness 81812AGO3B. The price of a harness has doubled over the last 6-7 years . The best price I found was $158, from subarupartwholesale.com. The installation walkthrough at https://www.legacygt.com/topic/110759-walkthrough-replace-wagon-wire-harness/ will be very helpfull. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 I had to return 81812AGO3B to the dealer for an exchange. Superficially it looks identical to the "3A" harness that is original in my car, but the wire colors do not all match. I called the dealer parts dept and they told me they made a mistake; based on the VIN I supplied I should have been shipped 81812AGO3A. My car was built in Nov 2004. SubaruPartWholesale paid for the return shipping, and for 2-day shipping on the correct 3A harness, and I paid $29 for the 3A harness. The 3A harness costs $29 more than the 3B harness. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oh8ootback Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Wanted to say thanks for this thread. Fixed an 08 outback today. Symptoms were no license light and no rear wiper. An afternoon of soldering. Salvaged 16 wire from my buddies work recycling bin. Opted to clip everything (6/14 were broken), remove the boot and solder. Ended up cutting the boot due to lack of foresight regarding width after shrink sleeves were installed. Took us 2 hrs with plenty of beers and breaks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted January 11, 2023 Share Posted January 11, 2023 Well the first harness fix lasted 7 years.. now the wiper's dead again. Time to go in again and try to find out which wire(s) are broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted January 11, 2023 Share Posted January 11, 2023 One of my wagons no longer has a functioning rear defroster, I think it's time to check mine as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorWood Posted January 12, 2023 Share Posted January 12, 2023 My tailgate lock has been flakey recently, but as we are in rainy season (Oct to June) in Portland I will live with it. The above repair resembles mine (5/31/2017)to the point where I thought that it was mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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