Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

legacy gt wheel spacers... need some insight


Recommended Posts

under compression loads it doesn't matter whether the aluminum is part of the wheel( ie low offset) or a spacer made of aluminum that is sandwiched between the wheel and hub. the compressive loading paths are EXACTLY the same.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spacers used with longer studs don't bother me, but personally I wouldn't run spacers with pressed in studs, or adapters on any car I drive hard on the street, or on the track. This has nothing to do with the wheel bearings for me either. What worries me is that you have two sets of studs, both being exhibited to forces of tension and compression, with a piece of aluminum as an intermediary.

 

As discussed above, with one set of wheel studs going through the hub, you create one polar moment about the wheel bearing. By having two sets of wheel studs, you create a second polar moment about the spacer body. The wheel loading applies torque to the spacer/adapter, and then that torque is transferred to the moment about the bearing. If I'm going 100+mph and creating excessive lateral loads in cornering, that's simply too much going on for me to feel safe and confident.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

low offset wheel do not kill wheel bearing

 

i've ran all sorts of wheels from 0-20 offset for years

 

no problem

 

Lol a spacer does nothing but lower the offset of the wheel. They don't prematurely kill your bearing any faster than a low offset wheel would. And im speaking from experience.

 

There is nothing wrong with a well made adapter/ spacer. If you want to play safely.. your going to have to pony up more than 100$. Check out adaptec. They make high quality shit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd rather mill out the stud holes in a 25mm spacer and run 3" ARP wheel studs before I ran the kind of spacer with studs pressed in, high quality or not.

 

Why? As you stated before you said at speeds of 100mph plus? At normal highway speeds for normal daily driving (which im going to assume that the op is in that boat) it doesn't make a difference. And op is discussing adapters, not spacers.. so while your comment is understandable, it doesn't apply to this case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so wut would the proper math be for a 1" 5x114 adapter?

 

What do you mean proper math? 1" = 25.4mm.. so subtract 25.4mm from whatever offset wheel you're interested in to get your effective offset ( assuming you're starting with a positive offset wheel)

 

Example: +56 wheel used in conjunction with 25 mm spacer = effective offset of +31.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree that in most DD situations it doesn't really matter, I'm just saying I wouldn't run an adapter on my car, really at any speed. This is just my opinion and preference, I'm not saying they will fail in average situations, I'm just pointing out that a compromise in integrity, regardless of magnitude, is made.

 

It depends on OP's intent. It's just that most time's people want to switch to 114's to fit a much wider, lower offset wheel, which wouldn't work too well with a large spacer. And I wouldn't want to put sticky tires on that wheel and take advantage of the performance benefits of the wider wheel with two sets of wheel studs bolted together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I'd rather mill out the stud holes in a 25mm spacer and run 3" ARP wheel studs before I ran the kind of spacer with studs pressed in, high quality or not.

 

I agree with this.

 

There is nothing wrong with spacers, but I don't like the idea of a pressed in stud to an aluminum backing.

 

Aluminum isn't as stiff as steel. As you torque down the new studs, they'll compress the aluminum backing. This is why, with aluminum wheels, you have to check lug torque periodically. With two sets of studs, you have to remove the wheel in order to check the torque on the spacer studs. Then reinstall your wheel. Then remove the wheel again, to double check torque down the line. Then check torque again on your wheel. Kind of a pain. As a result, most people won't do this, and that could result in broken studs from insufficient lug torque. An extended stud with a standard spacer is going to cost about the same as a fancy double-stud spacer, but be much more reliable and much easier to maintain properly.

 

The double-moment theory doesn't really bother me. The efficiency of load transfer between the wheel and the spacer, and the spacer and the hub is likely greater than 99%. From a pragmatic standpoint, the increased difficulty of proper maintenance is enough to make me avoid those kinds of spacers.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use