Lookatmyrust Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 has anyone ever had a leaking rear diff? it looks like mine is leaking out the front seal were the drive shaft comes in.. what should i do?! haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 well you could replace the pinion seal in the difee. but it's too bad you don't have a parts car around you can swap in another differential altogether. that would ba a pretty easy solution. are both your cars auto trans 2.5L engines??? if so they are a perfect match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 well you could replace the pinion seal in the difee. but it's too bad you don't have a parts car around you can swap in another differential altogether. T3h funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 yea. maybe ill message that guy and ask if he will sell his rear diff to me. shipping should be dirt ass cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 so what involved in swapping diffs. i may take my old diff off the parts car and completely rebuild it. what parts are involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 i don't know. i've never even pulled one. another thought, buy a locking VLSD, viscous limited slip differential, from a 03 outback or GT and install it. you will need to confirm the final drive ratio but i'm pretty sure the locking diffs from the auto outbacks in 03 are 4.44 like yours. i think you can get one for about $150.00. check http://www.car-part.com. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 so what involved in swapping diffs. i may take my old diff off the parts car and completely rebuild it. what parts are involved. Should be pretty easy. I will grab my manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 would it be smart to completely lock the rear diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 would it be smart to completely lock the rear diff? No. Sounds pretty straightforward. All the internals are available. I like john's suggestion about the VLSD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 so i goota buy or search the junk yards for a lsd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted April 4, 2011 I Donated Share Posted April 4, 2011 I have a good rear diff from a 2.2 auto. You will want to check to make sure the gear ratios are the same, but I'll sell it to you if you need it -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 might want to double check on the ratio, IIRC it may be a 4.11 in the later years. also, the VLSD is better than an open diff, but it is not a "locking" diff. It uses a Viscous Coupling to limit slip, and the VC has been known to leak out it's special silicone fluid and become useless, so beware junkyard pieces. common knowledge says you can't service the VC and without having one in front of me i cannot refute this claim. that said, if you can find a good VLSD unit for the right price, as i said, it IS an improvement over the open diff you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted April 4, 2011 I Donated Share Posted April 4, 2011 that said, if you can find a good VLSD unit for the right price, as i said, it IS an improvement over the open diff you have. this would be part of the reason why I have a spare stock diff sitting around lol -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 might want to double check on the ratio, IIRC it may be a 4.11 in the later years. also, the VLSD is better than an open diff, but it is not a "locking" diff. It uses a Viscous Coupling to limit slip, and the VC has been known to leak out it's special silicone fluid and become useless, so beware junkyard pieces. common knowledge says you can't service the VC and without having one in front of me i cannot refute this claim. that said, if you can find a good VLSD unit for the right price, as i said, it IS an improvement over the open diff you have. My 95 (5mt) has. 4.11 Later years are 4.44. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 i think your diff is a 3.9, it should be. the final drive ratios in the late 90s, 95 - 99, are engine specific. ej22s are different than ej25s. engine.......................trans..........................ratio ej22..........................manual.......................3.90 ej22..........................auto...........................4.11 ej25..........................manual.......................4.11 ej25..........................auto...........................4.44 same info a different look engine.......................trans..........................ratio ej22..........................manual.......................3.90 ej25..........................manual.......................4.11 ej22..........................auto...........................4.11 ej25..........................auto...........................4.44 the only exception to this info is the 96 outback manual. it has the ''outback'' final drive ratio but it has the ej22 engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 i think your diff is a 3.9, it should be. the final drive ratios in the late 90s, 95 - 99, are engine specific. ej22s are engine.......................trans..........................ratio ej22..........................manual.......................3.90 ej25..........................manual.......................4.11 ej22..........................auto...........................4.11 ej25..........................auto...........................4.44 the only exception to this info is the 96 outback manual. it has the ''outback'' final drive ratio but it has the ej22 engine. Wow. Good to know. Strange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 so my 96 auto gt does have the same as my 97-98 gt auto. hmm wonder when ill have time to swap these things. im not look forward to breaking those bolts loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 TIP: the rear of the diff has 2 studs with nuts going through the cross member. typically you would spray penetrating oil on the nuts to remove. but if you spray where the studs enter the case instead, and leave the nuts alone. you may be able to remove the whole stud. this makes it a little easier to drop the diff. you don't have to move it forward to drop it. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 tire size followed the diff ratio in these cars as well. the ej25 outbacks got larger tires than the ej22 legos, EXCEPT in the GT and LSi. the GT got the ej25 ratios but got the legacy tire size (slightly bigger). the larger tires on the lower gearing / larger engine in the outbacks helped keep the fuel economy up. (the increase in tires size basically offsets the decrease in the ratio gearing.) keeping the smaller-ish tires on the GT made it ''quicker''. the final drive ratios in the late 90s, 95 - 99, are engine specific. ej22s are different than ej25s. engine...............trans..................ratio...............tire diameter.........GT ej22..................manual...............3.90................24.2 inches ej22..................auto...................4.11................24.2 inches ej25..................manual...............4.11................26.3 inches..........24.9 ej25..................auto...................4.44................26.3 inches..........24.9 same info a different look engine...............trans..................ratio ej22..................manual...............3.90................24.2 inches ej25..................manual...............4.11................26.3 inches..........24.9 ej22..................auto...................4.11................24.2 inches ej25..................auto...................4.44................26.3 inches..........24.9 the only exception to this info is the 96 outback manual. it has the ''outback'' final drive ratio but it has the ej22 engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 so i gotto unbolt the hubs dont i. to get the axles of the diff right. i wonder if i should just replace the seal in the diff. hell i dont even know where i can buy the seals for the rear diff. reseal my diff....or... or reseal and rebuild my diff from my other car and sawp in..this probably has less down time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 so i gotto unbolt the hubs dont i. to get the axles of the diff right. i wonder if i should just replace the seal in the diff. hell i dont even know where i can buy the seals for the rear diff. reseal my diff....or... or reseal and rebuild my diff from my other car and sawp in..this probably has less down time. Yes, the hubs have to come off to remove the axles, Rear diff seal is the most likely culprit. Get the seal at the dealership. Edit: wash it all off with engine cleaner, and hose it down. Then watch daily to see where toe fluid escapes. We will find the culprit part in this manner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 it its the front seal which i assume it is. will i still have to remove the rear axles. or just the drive shaft. damn us and our 2 diffs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 i tried this and quit. it pinion nut is hard to get off, at least mine was. you drop the shaft and then measure how force it takes to turn the pinion flange using an inch lbs torque wrench. this is so you can re-torque it to the same amount . remove the pinion nut, this has the same torque as the front crank pulley 125- 137 ft lbs. remove the seal. replace the seal. NOW, you torque the pinion nut to a specified amount so it takes the same force to ''turn'' the pinion flange. over-torque, too tight and you destroy the bearing, under-torque, too lose and the bearing is sloppy and will wear and the seal will leak. put it back together and off you go. i gave up and paid to have it done, ~$150 iirc. if the pinion nut is tight, you don't have enough room to swing a breaker bar under the car to remove it. an impact gun may , probably would, do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 hell this sound likes. is that what i gotta do to swap the diffs or is that what i gotta do to just tear it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 that's the procedure for replacing the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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