Skillz Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Picked up my car from the shop today after getting the plugs changed and about 3-4 min later I got on it a little and noticed a slight stutter...the boost gauge flickered a little too. I drove normal and it was fine. I tested it again and it did the same thing. 5 minutes later (1 mile from home) I started slowing down for a stop light and the car felt like it was about the cut off. Check Engine light started flashing (no Cruise Control flash though). I put it in neutral and started feathering the gas a little but it only helped a little. I started to go after the light turned green and the entire car started shaking and felt like it was going to cut off again. I limped home and reflashed the ECU. My tuner configured my tune so that I would not have to reflash if the battery was disconnected (which the shop did) but I thought it was worth a try. When I started flashing it the spedo display read "Er HC" and the temp gauge went directly to Hot and stayed there until I turned off the car after the flash was over. I've never seen that before or read about that. I started the car again after the flash and it still had a slightly rough idle but if I gave it gas it would not do anything. It would just idle. I wanted to use NGK plugs (Iridium LFR7AIX) but no one near by had them so I used Denso IKH20 plugs instead. The auto parts stores and Sparkplugs.com all said they were the cross reference plug and would work just fine. I'm freaking out....any ideas?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Loose wire(s) and go back to the NGKs. But I'd seriously take it back to the shop that did it. Possible they didn't install the plug correctly, i.e., cross-threaded, too loose, etc. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skillz Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 Would that cause the car to only idle? If I give it gas it won't react. It just idles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skillz Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Anyone ever hear of this or have this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
car_cursed Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 they're not gapped right would be my guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HCF Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Make sure the ignition coils are securely plugged back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Subbed for solution..I bet they're not gapped properly. Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skillz Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 After alot more research I agree^^ it's got to be either the wrong gap or coil packs not secure. It's almost like the car is in safe mode....it won't let the engine rev at all. Car is being towed tomorrow morning. I'll post up what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draco-REX Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 If the shop gives you a line about the plugs not needing to be gapped, make them pull the plugs and regap them, and then go to another shop in the future. Plugs these days *supposedly* don't need to be gapped. But I have YET to pull a set of plugs from a box and find them all gapped the same let alone gapped properly. So, for those who will be doing your own plugs, ALWAYS check the gaps no matter what a mechanic or autoparts guy says. It doesn't take long and you'll know you've got the right gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Sounds like the MAF sensor isn't plugged in to me... if everything else checks out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skillz Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Towed it back to the shop this morning and they said it was a computer issue. They called the dealership who told them they wouldn't know until they could look at it. Towed it to the dealership and they said the computer (bcm) was toast. They hooked up to the bcm and they couldn't communicate with it. It wouldn't allow them to read any codes or "talk" to it in any way. So now they have ordered a new bcm and are going to install it tomorrow. I just think it is VERY weird that when I dropped it off at the shop it was fine and then a few minutes after picking it up the ecu is fried. When I pick it up the ecu is going to be stock but now I'm nervous about flashing it back to my tune. I think it should be fine but I'm still nervous. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
car_cursed Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 My thought, don't take it back to that shop, and install your own spark plugs for now on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagcars26 Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 You're not paying fr this new ECU correct?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Playing devil's advocate, do you think having them disconnect the battery to your modified ECU had anything to do with it breaking? Weird things happen with electronics all the time. If they are paying for the ECU then that is a good shop, even if they meet you half way they are still a good shop. But even if they do not pay, how can you prove they broke it? X --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Instanced Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 You're not paying fr this new ECU correct?? X2 Bet the shop fried your ECU... I'd make them pay for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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