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Mod - HIDs added


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seiyafan, Yeah that cutoff is normal for our cars. If you have ever seen a cutoff for a TSX, RX330, etc. you will see only one of those and it be much sharper!

 

spidermanmtl, I don't think you want 8000k or 10,000k lights, as they will be very blueish/purpleish. The light output would be very poor and I would imagine you have a higher chance of being pulled over. I wouldn't personally go above 6000k. Most OEM lights are 4300k.

 

chaswg, Why is the ground wire running on the outside of the bulb like that?

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That's just the way many HID bulbs are made. There is a thick wire that runs out of the top of the bulb and down the side and into the base. It causes a shadow. The only fix is to cut off the tab that keeps the bulb from rotating (as if would with that clip that holds it down) and turn the bulb so that the shadow is cast upward.

Not sure I want to do that.

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I had 8000K HIDs in my VW Passat with Euro Spec headlamps. They looked great and worked even better. The light is super white/blue. My last car was an Audi A6 which had factory HIDs and they were 4300K, a bit too much toward the yellow end of the spectrum for my taste, especially after having the 8000Ks in the Passat.

 

I'm finding that these 6000K HIDs are really nice and they light up the road amazingly well. The housing in these Gen 5 Legacys are just screaming to have HIDs installed. It's a perfect match.

 

I also think that having anything more than 8000K bulbs will 1) look silly and boy-racer like, 2) not light up the road as well and 3) be a waste of money.

10000K or higher bulbs are just so Blue/Purple and the amount of light output just falls off way too much after 6000K. Our eyes aren't made to see that color of light at night as well as the lower spectrum. And as you age, it gets worse.

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Chas, your light beam patters show that the conductor wire is casting a shadow, as least you can see it for the driver bulb, might be washed out for the passenger bulb. Did you rotate the bulb 180 degrees? My light pattern, bulb bases snipped and rotated 180 degrees, does not have that shadow.
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Jon, I'm waiting for the back of my hand to heal before going back in there again. The first time I got the bulb in there I didn't have it seated correctly and it wasn't as bright as the passengers side. So the next day I got back in there and reseated it to the correct (and shadowed) position. The back of my hand looks like I tried to give a cat a bath! Holy Hell there are some sharp bits under there. And well, (I'm not bragging or anything, OK maybe I am) I've got big hands! And that's a a tight spot to manuver around in. I do hate that shadow.

 

So are you bulbs moving around at all without the lock down tab being in place?

 

Oh, and happy post 200 to me! :D

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No, I made the socket tab look identical on the opposite side, so no moving around at all.

 

And, I pulled off the front bumper and removed the lights to put the xenons in, only took about 20 minutes to get it all apart. And no bloody knuckles ;)

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Hello, I got my kit in the mail today(going to install Friday).. I haven't opened my car up yet and am just curious as to where I plug these?

 

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8530/20110302155226.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

 

I guess I'll have a better understanding when I "open up" the car, but am a very curious and un-patient person.

 

Thanks in advance.

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The blue goes into the port for the red wire and of course black in the black. The wire plug that connects to the halogen bulb is a real PITA to disconnect too. There are two little push-in buttons on the side as you pull back to release it from the bulb.

 

Those wires feed power to the HID ballast.

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  • 1 month later...

They still work great! I checked on the mount positions for the ballasts (different since the first install, they are now hidden under the fenders, behind the rubber skirt that lines the engine bay on both sides) and everything is still locked down and looking perfect. No condentation, there is a rubber grommet that seals the wires entering the back dust cap. As long as that is a tight fit everything will be fine. Also, I live out East of Denver, Colorado, possibly some of the consistantly driest places in the US. So that's not really a concern for me.

 

I've done this same install (with this exact same kit) in two different cars now. In both cases I had to drill out the rear dust cover to install the HID bulbs and wiring. In both cars condensation was never a problem.

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  • 4 years later...

So i have 2010 Subaru legacy, which I've installed HIDs and I can only get one bulb to work. I'm using a relay kit which connects to the ballasts and there is the power and ground wires to connect to the battery, then there is one more wire. That one more wire you're suppose to connect to the factory harness. My questions is, where is that factory harness?? I can take pictures if it helps.

 

Thanks for any help!

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Holy thread bump Batman!!! Hahaha!

 

You need to trigger the HID relay when you turn your headlights on, so that wire should get connected with a T-tap connector to the power coming from the factory harness when your headlights are turned on, somewhere in the vicinity of the connector for one of the headlight.

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Yea, sorry about that! This was the exact post I was looking for though.

 

So I've made progress. There is no stock low beam harness for the relay plug, it actually needed to go into the new HID plug. The whole time the driver's side bulb would come on, but the passenger's side would only flicker and go out.

 

I kept messing withe the wires and finally got the passenger light to stay on. I figured out that when it's cold I have to flick the low beams on and off a few time, then the passenger light stays on. I'm thinking it the ballast, but I haven't swapped the passenger for the driver side one to confirm that.

 

Thanks for the help guys.

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