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05 Lgt took a crap


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  • I Donated
The "poll" doesn't really mean a whole lot, since there is no limit as to how many times you can vote. A person like me who is upset with their LGT can vote negatively as many times as they want. On the other side someone who absolutely loves Subaru's can vote positively as many times as they want to "stick up" for their favorite brand.

 

Wrong. One vote per account. I suppose someone could create 100 accounts to stuff the ballot box, but who would actually care that much?

 

It's not a scientific poll, but it is a useful set of data. It does show that the vast majority of LGTs are reliable. Although, if there actually is a 20-25% failure rate in the real world, that's still pretty high -- but of course, once again, not a scientific poll.

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All I know it that I am on more than a few forums and I don't recall every reading about an engine failure from an original owner with a completely stock car other than maybe high mileage or neglect. I did read about at least a couple cases on various subie forums and from someone I talked to at a shop.
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I believe one case was a cracked ringland and other(s) were due to oil pickup failures.

 

My 05 LGT has only 56,500 mi. I consider that to be very low mi. When I bought the car 9 months ago at 52,000 mi. it ran great. It's not like the bearing was starting to fail from neglect when I bought the car. Only problem I had up until my con rod bearing failure was a check engine light a couple weeks after I bought it. That turned out to be a misfire which was fixed with a new fuel injector. Buying used cars is a little like Russian roulette. I guess I just lost! In the future I will stay away from turbo Subaru's. My expensive experience has soured my opinion of the brand. My wife just wont stop giving me shit about the car. Once it's fixed it will be up for sale. I'm sure whoever buys the car from me will be getting a great deal since the car will have a new shortblock, oil pump, water pump, and timing belt. In my eyes and my wifes, the car is cursed!

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  • I Donated
My expensive experience has soured my opinion of the brand. My wife just wont stop giving me shit about the car. Once it's fixed it will be up for sale. I'm sure whoever buys the car from me will be getting a great deal since the car will have a new shortblock, oil pump, water pump, and timing belt. In my eyes and my wifes, the car is cursed!

 

Up to you. I've been enjoying my car since I put in the new engine.

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My expensive experience has soured my opinion of the brand. My wife just wont stop giving me shit about the car. Once it's fixed it will be up for sale. I'm sure whoever buys the car from me will be getting a great deal since the car will have a new shortblock, oil pump, water pump, and timing belt. In my eyes and my wifes, the car is cursed!

 

I don't blame you. I have yet to have major problems (knock on wood), but putting myself in your shoes, I'd definitely be adding turbo subarus (or at least this gen LGT) to the list of cars not to buy used - when I was recently in the market BMW, SAAB, AUDI, VOLVO, VW were on that list for me.

 

Be aware though that to many here, you'll be branded as just another 'hater' ;)

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I see your point, but can't help but wonder (if it wasn't intentional neglect), how could a leak / burning oil go unnoticed? And i know it wasn't burning. What other way possible?

 

I'm sure we can create several scenarios. It doesn't necessarily have to involve burning or leaking oil, but it can.

 

Here's one possible one: the turbo breaks due to a manufacturing defect, which spreads pieces of metal throughout the oil system, which blocks oil lines to the main bearings, which disintegrate.

 

Here's another one: an oil line starts to leak due to a manufacturing defect, which manifests itself at the beginning of a road trip. In between tankfuls of gas (about six hours at 60 MPH), the engine loses enough oil for the engine to self-destruct. The car won't notify the owner that something is amiss until the oil light goes on, at which point the damage has been done.

 

I'm sure we can brainstorm others.

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I'm sure we can create several scenarios. It doesn't necessarily have to involve burning or leaking oil, but it can.

 

Here's one possible one: the turbo breaks due to a manufacturing defect, which spreads pieces of metal throughout the oil system, which blocks oil lines to the main bearings, which disintegrate.

Here's another one: an oil line starts to leak due to a manufacturing defect, which manifests itself at the beginning of a road trip. In between tankfuls of gas (about six hours at 60 MPH), the engine loses enough oil for the engine to self-destruct. The car won't notify the owner that something is amiss until the oil light goes on, at which point the damage has been done.

 

I'm sure we can brainstorm others.

 

Isn't there also a filter on the return side to prevent this?

 

Along side boost gauge, i'll be installing oil pressure as well.

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Isn't there also a filter on the return side to prevent this?

 

I don't know.

 

Along side boost gauge, i'll be installing oil pressure as well.

 

 

When the car was in the shop for all the work, I toyed with the idea of having the optional gauge pack (boost, oil pressure, and something else) installed. I elected not to do so. Maybe I should have.

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Isn't there also a filter on the return side to prevent this?

 

Along side boost gauge, i'll be installing oil pressure as well.

 

 

The stock OP sender is located next to the oil filter. The turbo ((and other parts) will run out of oil before an oil pressure gauge fed by the same sender location will register a problem.

 

A sender mounted on the turbo feed line would be the best bet. Otherwise, ""stock" op gauge is a waste of money that provides a false sense of security.

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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Thanks gents,

 

The stock OP sender is located next to the oil filter. The turbo ((and other parts) will run out of oil before an oil pressure gauge fed by the same sender location will register a problem.

 

Wonderful.

 

A sender mounted on the turbo feed line would be the best bet. Otherwise, ""stock" op gauge is a waste of money that provides a false sense of security

OP location on the top of block between inter-cooler and intake would suffice yea?

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Pics as promised.

 

FYI, Piston and cylinder scarring is #3 cyl, broken piston head is #4 cyl.

Also, not sure where the rod knock was at, Connection at crank and wrist-pin were good.

 

 

 

 

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/3691/sl382016.jpg

 

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/4774/sl382021.jpg

 

 

 

 

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/301/sl382026.jpg

 

 

 

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/6923/sl382027.jpghttp://img51.imageshack.us/img51/2569/sl382030.jpg

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Up to you. I've been enjoying my car since I put in the new engine.

 

I'm still breaking mine in, so I'm being especially gentle with it.

 

In addition, the "check engine" light came on earlier this week. I took it to the shop, fearing the worst. (After all, the engine just blew up.) It just needed a new injector -- not so bad.

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Thanks gents,

 

 

 

Wonderful.

 

OP location on the top of block between inter-cooler and intake would suffice yea?

 

 

 

Yep! Search oil pressure sender on this site. Someone did a nice walk through with pics a while back!

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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