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Chasing a rough idle


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I think we've all had this at one time or another and I also think that 90% of the time it has to do with intake piping or MAF.

 

Now, I've had a rough idle since just before I was tuned. My tuner increased the idle rpm to help eliminate stalling and he also added something where the car 'catches' itself before a stall and adds throttle.

 

I have a list of items to check out - in order from highest of likelihood to lowest:

Bad O2 sensor

Spark Plugs

Intake Leak or leaky BPV

Bad water or power steering pump

Bad injectors

Coolant temp sensor

Cams/timing/valves

 

I was tuned with the rough idle and still made power, further reducing the likelihood of intake leak.

 

Any additional thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

lol
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Are you using more oil than usual? Intake leaks can be looked at by monitoring LTFT and STFT when the car goes into closed loop. Spray carb cleaner around pre and post MAF areas and watch for any sudden change.

 

Cylinder leakage is an issue with these motors, the local dealer is finding lots of crappy valve seats not sealing and burning valves.

What are you using for plugs?

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My idle cleared up a lot after new plugs. Then it cleared up a little more after my steering rack was replaced - not sure why. It still isn't a perfect idle (i.e., consistent vibration all the time) - it seems to cough every so often to the point where I'm not worried about it as every Legacy I've been in (3) idles in the same way.
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Yep... the OEM NGK Iridium plugs bought off of Amazon.com for the best price. Consensus seems to be that these are the only plugs you should be using - don't use copper or fancy variations with split tips and all that stuff. I'm no performance tuner or mechanic, but the OEM plugs are pretty high end compared to what comes in other cars - which probably has something to do with needing 93-octane. Anyway, took me upwards of 3-hours to do it because I had to rig up some tools to get down in there. The idle smoothed out considerably. I changed them at about 65K after I realized that the 60K service didn't include new plugs. Seemed ridiculous to me considering a major part of a tune-up is, indeed, replacing the spark plugs. Bygones... I had to have my steering rack replaced because it was leaking internally and would whine when I started up the car in cold weather. I thought it was the turbo, but the turbo is fine. I figure maybe the rack wasn't allowing the belts to rotate smoothly causing some frustration in the idle. I haven't felt any idle cough much since and it seems to have gotten better over the week or so that I've had the car back from the shop. Could be imagining that but I'll take it.
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Yep... the OEM NGK Iridium plugs bought off of Amazon.com for the best price. Consensus seems to be that these are the only plugs you should be using - don't use copper or fancy variations with split tips and all that stuff. I'm no performance tuner or mechanic, but the OEM plugs are pretty high end compared to what comes in other cars - which probably has something to do with needing 93-octane. Anyway, took me upwards of 3-hours to do it because I had to rig up some tools to get down in there. The idle smoothed out considerably. I changed them at about 65K after I realized that the 60K service didn't include new plugs. Seemed ridiculous to me considering a major part of a tune-up is, indeed, replacing the spark plugs. Bygones... I had to have my steering rack replaced because it was leaking internally and would whine when I started up the car in cold weather. I thought it was the turbo, but the turbo is fine. I figure maybe the rack wasn't allowing the belts to rotate smoothly causing some frustration in the idle. I haven't felt any idle cough much since and it seems to have gotten better over the week or so that I've had the car back from the shop. Could be imagining that but I'll take it.

edit: nm

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