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2nd-Gen LGT Brake Upgrades: WRX front and H6 Rear


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Cameron, do you think you can continue on with this documented DIY thread with the MC brace? I'd love to see this done. Also, has anyone considered swapping a MC from either a WRX or H6 legacy into out 2nd Gen cars? I'm sort of curious about MC swap...

 

If I end up getting one I will probably shoots some pics and make a few notes. Here is a recap of Baddog's install back on page 413 of the "What did you do to your 2nd Generation Subaru today?" thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/did-you-do-your-2nd-generation-subaru-todayi-130047p413.html

Edited by camroncamera
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Yeah, I remember Baddog's bracket install. He was pist off. He

Cursed and said he'd never order from that company again.....the did a 180* and wrote that it was THE BEST mod that 80 dollars could ever get you! :lol:

Once he figured out how to get the bracket installed slightly modded. I'm the same way, "pist as Sh** till I get it right!". Then it's just this whole other guy...

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  • 6 months later...
I am doing a similar setup to yours now, already ordered my components, but went with the power slot rotors instead. I contacted your boy over at http://namelessperformance.com/ and im just waiting to hear back about the brake lines! Awesome writeup on the process, and I will try to document my install as well. I'll keep you posted.
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Nameless contacted me yesterday to confirm the length of my rear brakes lines, I figured someone else must have made an inquiry. I suggested to them to make a hybrid rear line for the H6 upgrade: long one-piece line like a Gen-2 Leggy, but with the curly Gen-3 style hard caliper fitting to fit the H6 caliper notch. Good luck!

 

BTW I'm hearing good things about using a master cylinder brace, I want to add one myself. Apparently makes the biggest difference in pedal feel, which is obvious when you see with the naked eye how much movement there is at the master cylinder.

Edited by camroncamera
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Nameless contacted me yesterday to confirm the length of my rear brakes lines, I figured someone else must have made an inquiry. I suggested to them to make a hybrid rear line for the H6 upgrade: long one-piece line like a Gen-2 Leggy, but with the curly Gen-3 style hard caliper fitting to fit the H6 caliper notch. Good luck!

 

BTW I'm hearing good things about using a master cylinder brace, I want to add one myself. Apparently makes the biggest difference in pedal feel, which is obvious when you see with the naked eye how much movement there is at the master cylinder.

 

Yeah I was the guy inquiring with nameless, and once im done with the new brake setup I might also look into that master cyl brace. Just briefly looking into it it looked like there were some fitment issues with that brace, but it has been resolved?

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http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q771/subieadam/The%20Leg/132.jpg

 

Here she is in her current glory, with only mods being Japanese projectors, and external AT trans cooler

 

http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q771/subieadam/The%20Leg/131.jpg

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Yeah I was the guy inquiring with nameless, and once im done with the new brake setup I might also look into that master cyl brace. Just briefly looking into it it looked like there were some fitment issues with that brace, but it has been resolved?

 

Myself, I've yet to install one, but maybe someone else here who has done it will chime in.

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Haha. Was just reading the older posts. Yeah the brace was a pain for me. However on my girlfriends 1st gen. It was extremely simple. Nothing was in the way. Weird I know.

 

Still to this day it's working great.

 

Awesome, and the pedal feels more solid from the brace?

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Yeah. But keep in mind I also didn't run a cheap pad. I have SS brake lines. And good calipers. Decent rotors as well.

 

Pad has alot to do with pedal feel. So do the SS brake lines. All around I run a good brake setup for the car.

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Yeah. But keep in mind I also didn't run a cheap pad. I have SS brake lines. And good calipers. Decent rotors as well.

 

Pad has alot to do with pedal feel. So do the SS brake lines. All around I run a good brake setup for the car.

 

Sweet deal, I have power slot rotors WRX front, H6 rear with all brand new Centric calipers plus pads... waiting to hear back on the Steel Braided lines still, and I will be running the Stop Tech STR600 brake fluid. Thats the fluid we run in the Ferraris here at work lol. I think that will be a decent brake setup...

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  • 2 months later...
Hey Camron, how have the brakes been holding up? Do the rear brake lines want to come loose at all? I finally got the braided lines from Nameless, and unfortunately they couldn't do the H6 style so i will have the 97 Ob style on the rear also.
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Hey Camron, how have the brakes been holding up? Do the rear brake lines want to come loose at all? I finally got the braided lines from Nameless, and unfortunately they couldn't do the H6 style so i will have the 97 Ob style on the rear also.

 

Funny you should ask; the quick answer: They are great to have and I am glad I did it. No problems with the lines coming loose, though shortly after they were first installed I noticed that I was leaking brake fluid at the brake line/caliper connection on one of the rear brakes, even though they were torqued to spec. Tightening them a bit further solved that problem for the next two years.

 

And then...

 

On Monday evening we were meeting up with my wife's family for an early dinner before heading to a Blazers game. During our drive to my sister-in-law's, I noticed an unusual vibration... when we arrive, we notice an awful stink coming from the rear of the car, and it takes all of two seconds to notice that the driver side rear wheel is HOT.

 

Everyone goes into the house, while I limp the car to a nearby Les Schwab tire shop. Fortunately things are pretty slow there, so they were able to have a look right away. They determined that the caliper was sticking. They lubed the mechanism, took it for a short test drive, had another look, and decided that I could get home ok, but that the caliper still was not releasing as much as it should. No charge. So I drove back to the in-laws, and we arranged to ride together to the game in their van after dropping the Subaru back home (which seemed to dive normally on that trip). The Blazers lost.

 

Yesterday I dug out the paperwork on the brake parts purchases, got ahold of the nearby parts shop to arrange a free warranty replacement of the remanufactured caliper, and switched it out (I reused the pads and left the rotor alone). I torqued to spec the line connection to the caliper, and bled the caliper once my wife was home from work to depress the brake pedal while I operated the bleeder valve.

 

Took it for a test drive and everything was performing great. But, once again, the torque spec proved insufficient to keep brake fluid from leaking at the union. I cleaned the leaky fluid and tightened the connection a bit more, but did not test drive it again, as it was quite late. I'll probably take it for a spin later today and check for leaks again after I drop off the old core caliper at the parts shop.

 

The take away: Do this H6 brake upgrade. Use well-made stainless lines, but not cheap ones made overseas. Torque-to-spec your brakes lines to your calipers, using new washers, but check for leaks and expect to tighten a bit further. Use genuine Subaru calipers instead of cheapy remanufactured ones from overseas - this is what burned me. Great info on the issue of genuine vs. reman calipers here: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-brake-caliper-woes/ If you absolutely must use remanned calipers, carefully paint them with caliper paint prior to installation, or they will take on a rusty appearance within weeks. Right after I first installed the brakes I saw this video, courtesy of All Wheel Drive Automotive from Seattle:

It is possible that certain years WRX rear calipers are a better choice for this application... I have not fully investigated this, but you may find more info here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/why-called-h6-brake-upgradei-185293.html?t=185293

Edited by camroncamera
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Thanks for the Feedback Cameron! I already picked up some high temp VHT caliper paint to do them up good, and I already have some re-man calipers from centric that I ordered from The Tire Rack so hopefully they hold up, and I pretty much have the same lines as you except mine have the smoked color tubing instead of the clear showing the true silver steel braids. As far as the crush rings go on the brake line fittings, I will look up the torque spec and go the extra distance, if its 18 ft lb ill go 23 or 24 for example cause I never trust copper crush washers...

 

I'm glad you and family are ok, and nothing major occurred... hopefully I don't run into the same issue.

 

I now have all of the parts so I will begin the journey as soon as I am moved into my new place which I hope will happen withing the next 20 days or so. The place has a garage so finally I will have somewhere to put my tool box and work on the car.

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Hey guys, quick question hopefully :)

I have a JDM 2.0TT GTB which I *think* has the larger discs, 294mm up front, 290mm down back, can anyone confirm this? (I'll measure up my own anyway when I get my car back)

With that said, does that mean I only need to buy WRX calipers and it should bolt on? Pretty sure I have factory 16 inch gtb wheels (same as in this pic ) - will these clear the 4pot/2pot setup?

 

Cheers :)

 

Got a lot of options buying locally

4 pot:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/brakes/auction-554896935.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/brakes/auction-555120878.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/brakes/auction-554220240.htm

 

2pot:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/brakes/auction-554417782.htm

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