Nochance Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 I meant what are other possible symptoms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Look for any stray hoses, everwhere, anywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nochance Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 Well I'll have to check again tomorrow. I just checked the hose to the air box, that's not it either. I'll spray again tomorrow. I thought I had found the spot the other day. Spray hit it, and for a second it sounded to smooth out. Kept hitting it after that to double check and made no difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 if you want.... come up to me and ill check it out, im in wakefield ma right off 95 n. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Those silicone connectors (under the clamp bands), if not on exactly correct, can balloon and let boost pressure out. That's why I recommend a solid hose end-to-end at the TMIC-to-TB connection. Where were you spraying when you noticed the change in RPM? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nochance Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Almost directly the left of the battery, maybe a few inches below (not directly below) the TB. Does that make sense? Anything there that could be the problem? That was the general area that we sprayed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted July 5, 2011 I Donated Too Share Posted July 5, 2011 Check the vacuum lines that run up to the fender near the strut tower... I have one there that will pop off and then drops right down in that area, it's a dog legged shaped rubber hose and fairly small diameter but it really upsets things... I only noticed because I stopped looking for black rubber lines and started looking for shiny metal tubes that are meant to have rubber hoses pushed onto them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Almost directly the left of the battery, maybe a few inches below (not directly below) the TB. Does that make sense? Anything there that could be the problem? That was the general area that we sprayed. Sounds like the left bank breather hose and if that's off, you will have a vacuum loss/issue as it's a closed system. Look directly down on top of the cylinder head valve cover and you should see a hose coming out of the breather connection. Start there and work your way toward the manifold. Couple of other vacuum lines in that mix too, so check them all. Think this video may help with some of the "locations" - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 The FSM drawings/descriptions under Emission Controls may help too. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollo Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I've been getting P0171s (lean condition) for a while, only at very low idle though, and because it was circumstantial (and because all my other cars are in pieces and I need something to drive) I've been lazy and just drove it, thinking I'd get around to fixing it soon enough. The idle seemed a bit lower than it should be, but recently it got worse, and the car is stumbling to the point where it's throwing P301, 302, 303 and 304 (misfire for each cyl). It's fine on throttle, but the gas mileage does seem to have got even worse than usual. Now I think about it, I'm also getting the crazy "woosh" sound, much more than it should be.. I was thinking it's time for O2 sensors (it has 83k on it) but first I guess it's time to check the MAF and vac lines. Since a lean condition = too much air/not enough fuel, I guess a small vacuum leak could well cause that at idle when the engine needs the least air. The car is stock except for an exhaust. I'll let you guys know what I find. FWIW I found two vacuum lines disconnected - one was on the right of the engine which was easy to reach and which reconnecting made no real difference. Took the IC off and other one was clearly visible - IIRC it ran from the BPV to a tee connector, then the other side of the tee to.. somewhere, I couldn't even tell what it was connected to, but the pics in this post show it exactly: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1825538&postcount=2 It would have been a very easy fix, except in identifying the offending line I accidentally pulled on the line that is teed off, and it disconnected at the other end (a small three-way valve behind and to the left of the alternator). And that was a complete PITA to reconnect and feed back through. So.. don't do that. I also disconnected the battery and hit the brake pedal and left it while I was reconnecting vac lines, just to make sure the ECU was "fresh". I didn't zip tie the connections, but I will (the ones I can get to anyway) as I'm sure this will happen again. I think it must have happened when we were up in the mountains last winter - presumably the rubber lines lose their grip a bit in the extreme cold. Anyway, the car does seem to idle a LOT better, and I didn't get a CEL on the way to work. Hopefully it'll be back up to its stellar 17.5mpg average again soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Yeah - the blue "T" under the intercooler that pops-off on so many members. First thing I zip-tied was that connection. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 I used to pop that line almost as much as I pop bottles of Patrone. Norly, over 15psi and those things shoot off like a morning after tequila and texmex night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wungun1 Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I have this same problem, after i removed the MAF, the car ran smoothly. Can i Leave it off until I drive the car to my mechanic? He's a good 20miles away. The car keeps stalling when i come to a full stop and it's annoying otherwise i would just deal with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I have this same problem, after i removed the MAF, the car ran smoothly. Can i Leave it off until I drive the car to my mechanic? He's a good 20miles away. The car keeps stalling when i come to a full stop and it's annoying otherwise i would just deal with it. That means your maf needs to be replaced. Buy one online and put it in yourself, takes 5 minutes. Disc battery when doing it. But yes, its safe to drive with that cel on- assuming you know the cel is only the maf code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I have a barely used one for sale. PMing you wungun1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Careful around things like your downpipe when using starting fluid to find leaks, it's rather combustible. Seems like the two vacuum leaks I get often are: 1) IC to TB connection, and 2) cracking the end tanks on the stock intercooler... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Careful around things like your downpipe when using starting fluid to find leaks, it's rather combustible. Seems like the two vacuum leaks I get often are: 1) IC to TB connection, and 2) cracking the end tanks on the stock intercooler... I find the starter fluid as an expedited way to shave thy brow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wungun1 Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 I installed a working MAF from another GT and had the same issues, so I decided to remove the IC and sure enough, one of the hoses was disconnected on the "T". You guys are great, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Glad that's what it was. Boost (and vacuum) gremlins can be hard to track down. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock2534 Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 I had both a leak under the IC and a maf go out. When the hose was off the car felt weak and had a real choppy idle. When the maf went the car just died while driving. It would start up but die after a second. Had to tow it to the dealer and get a new one, was covered under warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 ^Yeah - I'm sure that was confidence-inspiring. Glad it worked out. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 I had both a leak under the IC and a maf go out. When the hose was off the car felt weak and had a real choppy idle. When the maf went the car just died while driving. It would start up but die after a second. Had to tow it to the dealer and get a new one, was covered under warranty. unplug the maf next time and you can continue driving.. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 F_ster was just thinking that. You'll run pig-rich, but you'll keep running. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 F_ster was just thinking that. You'll run pig-rich, but you'll keep running. not even .. it goes into speed density mode, and runs perfectly fine. no not perfect but lets you get home. but stay out of the boost . Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Had read somewhere that the it goes into closed-loop richness to ensure no lean-out at any throttle position. Will look it up again. What's your source? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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