ibr_adam09 Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 First off, I thought it was nice to speak to a live rep at 12am regarding a front wheel bearing I needed to order. My question was about their quality and how close it was to a genuine OEM part. They had this full assembly bearing for $109 (link) part number REPS283704. My thought was ok, price seems great and these guys do have good stuff, but just to be sure I got onto live chat ( which I thought no one would be on) and got a hold of someone. I asked him about the quality for the above item and he redirected me to this wheel bearing they had for $110 (link) part number W0133-1805914 The agent said they are both the same part, but the one he gave me (the SKF one) is a better product. Nonetheless I bought it (partly because I was tired of looking) comes with free shipping and 1 year warranty. I WAS going to get one from Fredbeans, but they wanted $120 + shipping, meh I've been reading the Tutorial for the diy replacement. Sooooo, My here's my question to you guys . - Do I need a hub puller AND a slide hammer or just one of them ? - It is fine to break the axle nut LOOSE while the car is on ground ? - This is a direct bolt in, no pressing required ? - What do you think about the SKF product ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 1. No problems with SKF stuff - At least I have never had any problems there. (OK, I may be partial... ) 2. It's OK to break the axle nut loose with the car on the ground. Nothing to worry about - it's even the best way to do it. As for hub puller, slide hammer etc. - it's a good idea to have both. And pressing - it's usually a tolerance question. Sometimes it may help to actually cool down one part and warm up the other part, but you will have to be quick to reassemble the parts before they acquire the same temperature. And when you do the job - a clean environment is critical - or you will have to do it again. Fresh grease is needed too - no such thing as "too much grease" - the excess can usually be wiped off one way or another. Just make sure that there is some way for it to escape so you don't blow a seal when assembling the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Looks to me like that is a simple bolt in job. The hub I looked at in your first link has 4 bolt holes where it bolts to the spindle. I think you'll need to bend up the tab piece on the orginal axle nut. It's recommended to replace the nut everytime, but not required. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fightinchunk Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 OP: do you have the link to the DIY? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 OP: do you have the link to the DIY? Here's the link http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-wheel-bearing-diy-walkthrough-86994.html Can I rent both tools from a shop. Seems like I need a pretty penny to buy these tools Looks to me like that is a simple bolt in job. The hub I looked at in your first link has 4 bolt holes where it bolts to the spindle. I think you'll need to bend up the tab piece on the orginal axle nut. It's recommended to replace the nut everytime, but not required. That what I thought. The assembly I ordered is HUB and Bearings, so All I have to do is bolt it right in, ....right ? Does that mean I don't need to "press" anything and I dont need the tools I mention required ? Just a good Breaker bar ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.