Chulew Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Just got an 08 2.5i with 5 speed MT. Car has 131k miles from 1 owner. CAT was replaced this past FEB. No idea if timing was done at or near 105k or if differential fluids have every been done. I noticed that AutoMD.com has the clutch replacement job at ~$1500 . My thought is that I'll just throw a low miles engine in there when the clutch finally goes since it sounds like I'll have to pull the engine to get to the clutch anyway. I have 1 month/1k warranty but I'm thinking I need to go ahead and do the timing belt pronto. Any recommendations? Can I use the Timing Belt Replacement 2.5T thread for this or is mine different? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/timing-belt-replacement-2-5t-106809.html The car does "caugh" at the moment I hit the gas from an idle (in neutral). It sounds fine following that initial caugh and it won't caugh unless I am completely idled down. What could this be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 A clutch shouldn't cost $1.5k, more like 1/3 that! I haven't had my 2.5i for too long and haven't replaced mine yet, but know that's way too much. Here's what I'd do: New plugs and wires Replace all fluids Timing belt/water pump (better safe than sorry!) Fuel filter? If the cough you speak of seems to be fuel delivery related. Clean throttle body Seafoam once everything else is done. Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted December 23, 2010 I Donated Share Posted December 23, 2010 Nah, $1500 is accurate for if you take the car somewhere. If you do it on your own, it's $300-400 for a kit, but labor is a killer. To the OP, you do not have to pull the engine to replace the clutch; you just have to unbolt it from the mounts and use a hoist to shift it forward. Taking out the radiator may help as well. Sounds like a pain, but trust me, doing the whole engine is worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 you do not have to pull the engine to replace the clutch; you just have to unbolt it from the mounts and use a hoist to shift it forward. That's what I like to hear! I can't seem to find a book for this year. Will an earlier year's book work? I've read Haynes is the way to go. If so, what year? Replace tensioner as well with this many miles right? Esp. since I'd worry I'd damage it re-compressing it. May begin tomorrow on all this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 yes, 07-09's are the same book. x2 for the 1500 clutch job. That may be with a flywheel. Fredbeans a vendor here can help with the parts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted December 23, 2010 I Donated Share Posted December 23, 2010 I can't seem to find a book for this year. Will an earlier year's book work? I've read Haynes is the way to go. If so, what year? Search on here for "vacation pix" and grab the one for the 09. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ here, try that. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 Ok, I just looked up my repair calculations for a clutch and it was between $700-1200. So I suppose a dealer would charge more. I've got w couple lotto shops by me that charge half (or less) per hour than the dealers so maybe that's why I was thinking a clutch wouldn't he so much. Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted January 2, 2011 Author Share Posted January 2, 2011 New plugs and wires Fuel filter? If the cough you speak of seems to be fuel delivery related. Clean throttle body. Is any of the above easier to do at the same time as timing belt? Search on here for "vacation pix" and grab the one for the 09. I see 08 vacation pix. Why 09? Also, how do I go about getting the right tension back on the drive belts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 Throttle body is right on top of the engine. You can do that yourself with a socket set and some extensions and a spray can of carb cleaner. You might not need to take the throttle body completely off, just take off the intake and have a look at how dirty it is. While your at it pull the PVC valve and clean or replace it. I haven't done plugs on my 06 yet, but my 98 was easier to reach from below so I had my mechanic do them while it was on the lift for something else. From what I understand, the fuel filter is a real PITA so I'd prob do that last. Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 2, 2011 I Donated Share Posted January 2, 2011 I see 08 vacation pix. Why 09? Also, how do I go about getting the right tension back on the drive belts? I didn't realize there were 08 ones too when I posted that. I had thought there were just 05 and 09. Both drive belts have tensioners. The AC belt uses an idler pulley; the alternator/PS belt uses the alternator to tension. There are long screws that adjust the positions of the idler and alternator. The vacation pix should have details if you are confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 I understand how put the belts under tension, I just don't understand the 2008 vacatuon pix tension check without a belt tension gauge. Do I measure the belt give at point "C" (page PM-14)? If so, how much pressure do I apply to check for that amount of give? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 I just put the new drive belts on this AM after finishing the timing. I just put the tension bolts back to the same position they were in before by means of the dirty/clean marks. Seems to be ok tension. Will check on them after a few tens and hundreds of miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.