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Remote Starter DIY

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Car - 2005 OBXT wagon - remote start (starter)


[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Ultrastart-U1172-xr-1-button-Starter-keyless/dp/B003NJCI9G]UltraStart 1172[/ame] with [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Xpresskit-Xpresskey-Universal-Transponder-Pass/dp/B001MWRXUK]DEI TBXKEY (requires valet key)[/ame]






Cost - less than $80


[EDIT - I ended up swapping remotes for the 4-button version pictured above from the 1280s version, hard to find)


Time - about 4-5 hrs. If I had to do it again today I'd be done in under 3 hrs.


Tools - very few.

  • Philip's head & flathead
    wire cutters
    10mm wrench
    utility knife
    solder (optional)
    elec tape
    small vampire clips (T-taps)
    lots of zip ties
  • 1 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/VDC-Automotive-Relay-SPDT-40A/dp/B0002KR9GG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1295149039&sr=8-1]SPDT relay[/ame] & connectors (added later for anti-grind, see explanation at bottom - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED YOU DO THIS STEP)


Wiring lists - http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/





Install was surprisingly easy. The hardest part is laying upside down on the floor to access wires. All the polarities of the triggers matched up with no addt'l relays. I got all power from my existing 4g amp cable coming thru the firewall at the steering column.


Otherwise the challenge is finding the right wires & matching them to the remote starter's wires. Most I wormed directly into the existing wires (no solder, I suck at solder). A few small ones I vampire-clipped. The antenna doubles as the programming button so I put it under the far left dash panel where it's easy to access.













The original wiring sheet from Subaru lists the security disarm wire as located in the driver's kick panel. I found it at the BIU on the gray connector, somewhere in the middle (there are two yellow/red wires for some reason).


Turns out the best way to test it was to turn the key in the doorlock, it'll ground that wire.



I also came back & put a relay on the starter wire. I made the mistake of turning the key in the ignition while car was running & grinding the starter a few times so I decided to idiot-proof it with a starter kill. Now the key can't activate the starter once the RS has started the car. The key works as usual without the RS running.


I know what you're thinking, that you'd never grind the starter. I thought that too. Even if you don't your wife will. The starter-kill is cheap insurance & highly recommended.


To do a starter kill relay, get an SPDT relay as linked above, they're cheap. Get the wiring harness too if you don't have connectors.


Cut the wh/bl starter wire & split it between relay terminals 30 & 87a.


relay terminal 30 = engine-side of starter wire

87a = ignition cylinder starter wire

87 = RS starter wire

85 = constant 12v+ (tap into white wire at ignition cylinder)

86 = "negative while running" wire from RS, att'd to the transponder box also (or anti-grind/starter kill wire)


I put the relay about 6" away from the ignition harness for breathing room.



Conclusions & stuff I'd do differently...


If I knew all this in advance I'd chose DIY for sure. If I had to start from scratch w/o all the info above I'd probably pay someone the $120 or so to install, it'd be worth it.


I'd probably use a add-on remote start like the 1155 from UltraStart & just use the trunk trigger from my existing key fob - it turns out the factory fob will still unlock the doors with the car running as long as the key's not in the ignition yet, that shuts the fob down.


If not I'd probably get a more traditional fob like the [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Ultrastart-U1272-pro-Starter-Advanced-Features/dp/B003NJAGI6]1272 version[/ame]. The one I have is small & cool but the buttons are hard to locate by feel and tough for big fingers.


Otherwise this is one of the best upgrades I've done on this car, it's been a real asset. I foresee remote starters going in all my future cars...

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Search for the "trunk unlocks with doors" mod, that will leave you with an extra trigger from OEM remote at the BIU.


Turns out mine will cycle between lock/unlock, so I get to replace my OEM remote with the slick new small chrome thing. Will have to update the walkthru.

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  • 3 weeks later...

There's 1 accessory & 2 ignitions, I used all at the cylinder harness. I don't know what they power, maybe just redundant.


The car's basically in full-function mode once started so the radio is going to play.


If you get technical you could rig a relay off one of the programmable outputs from the RS and have it disconnect your radio power. That's a tricky arrangement tho, we're talking about normally-on relay that cuts off with a trigger, and the feed it cuts is switched at ignition anyway.


Or just turn off the radio...


I dunno. Let me know what you come up with.

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Rather Then Get out my meter, do you know if the factory key less outputs are negative or positive signals?


I'm going to finish up the install tonight.. Haven't decided how to do the radio cut out part yet.. Might just use a relay as suggested

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Yay I'm Up and Running!... Well Auto Starting. total Cost was about $62 bucks for me. I went with the Ultarstart U1155 and Xpresskit XpressKey System. Parted out the flip key I had made and put the chip in the bypass rather then a full key that could be used to start the car if someone really wanted to.


The Trunk Signal Is a Positive Trigger.


Install Took me about 4.5 Hours but I soldered Everything and Shrink Wrapped. I have not taken the time to re wire the Radio to be off when the auto start is active.. I will work on that at some point when I get around to it.


Thanks to boulder guy for all your help. If anyone Has any Questions feel free to ask me as well.. It wasn't hard just took time to do it right and then clean up the wiring under the dash.. That hardest thing for me to locate was the horn, because its labeled as red/red white and in my car it was Red with Silver Dots.


One Downfall of using the factory remote and this unit is because the key is in it you cant use it to leave the car on. If the Ignition Senses a key in it, it disables the keyless system so it cant trigger the ultrastart to come on. Though im not sure the 1155 will do this any how even if it did.


Very Happy I did this and can't wait to start using it. No more getting into a cold car after work for me.

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Nice, congrats. Something I neglected the first time was the alarm disarm, I need to go back in this weekend & get that done. Supposed to be in the kick panel.


Your relay wouldn't be that bad, here's a diagram for an SPDT:




12v+ IGN from radio harness = 86 & 87a

12v+ into radio = 30

RS negative when run output = 85

(put diode across 85 & 86, stripe towards +)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Any update? Did you manage to fix it? I'm about to install a remote start myself.


Since my car only came with one key, if I hide the chipped key(with the key ground down) inside the steering column by the tumbler, do you figure could i then use a non-chipped key to start the car AND use the remote starter without a bypass?


This one:



With this, chip not programmed:


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On the transponder box, ground the black wire to the car, not to the "neg while running" output on the RS. Attach the 12v+ to something switched at the ignition so it's not running ALL the time (so it won't drain the battery). If it's powered when the key's in the "on" position it should be good.


The 12v+ output from the RS designated for the transponder box might be switched like this, if so use it. If not, find somewhere else. All this should work in theory but I've never tried it myself. It's possible there's something we haven't seen so be careful & let us know how it works.

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  • 3 years later...


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