Is this Code 11? (video) i'm still new to subarus

[amorgan93]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27bfpOmkllQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27bfpOmkllQ[/ame]

 

what code is it if not code 11?

[ehsnils]

No. That's not Code 11, that's a flash CEL indicating that something is bad. At least it doesn't appear to be code 11.

 

Code 11 is more irregular. Also see the post about reading codes at the top of the section.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reading-obd-codes-146240.html

[amorgan93]

No. That's not Code 11, that's a flash CEL indicating that something is bad. At least it doesn't appear to be code 11.

 

Code 11 is more irregular. Also see the post about reading codes at the top of the section.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reading-obd-codes-146240.html

 

what code is it?

[ehsnils]

It's not a code - it's a regular flash indicating that you have a serious problem.

 

To read the code you need to connect the right connectors.

 

A code 11 would look something like this:

 

....!...!......!...!......!...!...... etc.

 

As an example code 12 would look like this:

....!...!.!......!...!.!...... etc.

[amorgan93]

It's not a code - it's a regular flash indicating that you have a serious problem.

 

To read the code you need to connect the right connectors.

 

A code 11 would look something like this:

 

....!...!......!...!......!...!...... etc.

 

As an example code 12 would look like this:

....!...!.!......!...!.!...... etc.

 

da**. What kind of problem could we be talking about? A rod sticking out the side of my engine block? crankshaft laying on the ground? not really but gahh i dont need something with a serious problem. i should also say this car had fuel that was like 7 months old in it, or older, and that fuel sat in the fuel filter for that 7 months. I had to replace the fuel pump in the car, but i have yet to replace the fuel filter. So im pretty sure the fuel filter is bad, could this be tripping the computer as a misfire or something? And by the way that video is taken with the right connectors connected. I was diagnosing the check engine light and thats what the light did.

[ehsnils]

OK, it may be that it's just an indication for no code.

 

You have to be aware that the OBD-I system is rather stupid and only indicates rather obvious codes.

 

However if you look into the list of codes you can always see if there is one code or another you can trigger to see what it looks like. That is usually a good idea when you try to familiarize yourself with the system.

 

But as you said - replacing fuel filter is a good idea. There are many things to check on a car that doesn't run well, and taking it step by step is the way to go. Getting a fuel pressure meter may be one useful tool. A vacuum meter too.

 

As for serious problem - it's more in the category of detecting that there is a fault that may damage the cat. But then the flashing shall occur with connectors in "normal" setting, not "code read" setting.

 

Cleaning the injectors may help - if the car has been sitting for a long time one or more of the injectors may be a bit "sticky". Injector cleaner may help but sometimes it's better to remove them and have a specialist test them.

 

Take it step by step and clean MAF sensor (if you have one) and the throttle body. It often takes just a single failure to cause weird problems.

 

A multimeter may also be helpful, check out all temperature sensors (considering your idle problem in another post) it may be that the engine is either having a manifold leak (gasket between manifold and cylinder head is one point), cracked hose for the MAP sensor or a faulty temperature sensor which causes the engine to idle badly.

 

Sometimes spraying suspect points with combustible fluid like Brakleen can help you localize a leak.

[amorgan93]

OK, it may be that it's just an indication for no code.

 

You have to be aware that the OBD-I system is rather stupid and only indicates rather obvious codes.

 

However if you look into the list of codes you can always see if there is one code or another you can trigger to see what it looks like. That is usually a good idea when you try to familiarize yourself with the system.

 

But as you said - replacing fuel filter is a good idea. There are many things to check on a car that doesn't run well, and taking it step by step is the way to go. Getting a fuel pressure meter may be one useful tool. A vacuum meter too.

 

As for serious problem - it's more in the category of detecting that there is a fault that may damage the cat. But then the flashing shall occur with connectors in "normal" setting, not "code read" setting.

 

Cleaning the injectors may help - if the car has been sitting for a long time one or more of the injectors may be a bit "sticky". Injector cleaner may help but sometimes it's better to remove them and have a specialist test them.

 

Take it step by step and clean MAF sensor (if you have one) and the throttle body. It often takes just a single failure to cause weird problems.

 

A multimeter may also be helpful, check out all temperature sensors (considering your idle problem in another post) it may be that the engine is either having a manifold leak (gasket between manifold and cylinder head is one point), cracked hose for the MAP sensor or a faulty temperature sensor which causes the engine to idle badly.

 

Sometimes spraying suspect points with combustible fluid like Brakleen can help you localize a leak.

 

yeah i did the Brakleen test already to try and find a vacuum leak. never found one. i removed the entire air intake system, cleaned all the hoses with brake cleaner, cleaned the PCV valve and its hose, cleaned all the ports in the intake tube with brake cleaner, and ended up dumping acorns out of that tube. quite a few, which worries me. I will replace the fuel filter today, and then maybe try running seafoam through one of the vacuum lines, ive always had good luck with seafoam. i cleaned the MAF sensor, took apart and cleaned the IAC valve and TPS with electrical cleaner, but where is the MAP sensor? And what about EGR? i didnt see an EGR assembly in this car, but i never spent much time looking. And i appreciate all the help.

[SBT]

You won't find a MAP on any Subaru until 1999 when the engineers replaced the MAF system with the MAP sensor system.

[amorgan93]

replaced fuel filter on the car today. Nothing changed. I'm really getting frustrated, i keep dumping money and nothing is changing. I changed the fuel filter after leaving the battery unhooked for a good 2 days and yet still have a check engine light coming up, and still the same sequence of flashing as in the video, when in diagnosis mode. it also still has a miss in it just like before

 

also the car hadnt been run for 2 days and when i took off the old filter, there was no pressure in the fuel system.

[ehsnils]

So it may be that your fuel pump is bad.

 

But you should also check the PCV valve.

 

Another trick is to remove hoses for various secondary items and plug them. By excluding every "feature" that isn't needed you may at least make sure that they aren't the cause.

 

The TPS is also a suspect, but that shouldn't cause this type of problem unless it's temperature dependent.

 

Ignition coils can also be suspect - temperature causing the spark to jump to ground.

 

Fresh ignition cables and spark plugs is of course important.

 

And someone else also noted that too small valve clearance can be a problem for idle on a warm motor.

[amorgan93]

So it may be that your fuel pump is bad.

 

But you should also check the PCV valve.

 

Another trick is to remove hoses for various secondary items and plug them. By excluding every "feature" that isn't needed you may at least make sure that they aren't the cause.

 

The TPS is also a suspect, but that shouldn't cause this type of problem unless it's temperature dependent.

 

Ignition coils can also be suspect - temperature causing the spark to jump to ground.

 

Fresh ignition cables and spark plugs is of course important.

 

And someone else also noted that too small valve clearance can be a problem for idle on a warm motor.

 

i hope its not the fuel pump, it is brand new and has less than 8 hours of use on it. Also put a new fuel strainer on it. I will pick up new plugs and wires tomorrow. also will get a new PCV valve tomorrow. but i don't see plugs or plug wires as causing these idle surges, idle problems, and loss of power its having. you think maybe the IAC valve might be causing problems? I'm on the verge of pulling the entire intake manifold and cleaning it up. When i removed the IAC i noticed the gasket between it and the intake was metal and had stuff flaking off of it. i will try spraying brakeleen around the area between the IAC valve and the intake manifold and see if that gasket is bad. If it is, i will use some of the high temp silicon gasket maker stuff i have.

 

Expenses:

Car $200

Replaced Fuel pump $90

replaced Fuel Strainer $20

Replaced Fuel Filter $25

replaced all guage cluster bulbs $21

valvoline high mileage synthetic blend 10w-30 & Fram oil filter $21

Lucas oil stabilizer $9

1 can electrical cleaner, 1 can carb cleaner $7

used CV axle $25

$418

 

soon to come

Bosch Plug wires $30

new plugs ~$15

PCV valve $5

$473

 

just keeps addin

[ehsnils]

Let's say - just don't throw parts at it, try to figure out if the part really is failing before you add it.

 

OK, some parts like ignition cables are tricky, but fuel pump can be checked with a pressure meter.

 

And even then it can be the pressure regulator.

 

Use instruments first and check the values recommended before guessing something may be bad. Disconnecting and plugging the PCV hose is one way to go.

 

Patience and experimentation with what you have at hand can give a lot of clues. Just adding parts is often a futile business.

[amorgan93]

Let's say - just don't throw parts at it, try to figure out if the part really is failing before you add it.

 

OK, some parts like ignition cables are tricky, but fuel pump can be checked with a pressure meter.

 

And even then it can be the pressure regulator.

 

Use instruments first and check the values recommended before guessing something may be bad. Disconnecting and plugging the PCV hose is one way to go.

 

Patience and experimentation with what you have at hand can give a lot of clues. Just adding parts is often a futile business.

 

i dont have any of the tools to check pressures. And i updated the previous post, after you posted this. that gasket between the IAC and intake manifold was flaking and breaking apart, but i couldnt find this gasket on any of the auto parts stores website. And what is the vacuum line that is run to the cam covers on the motor? is that PCV valves? there was one ran to a place further down the intake manifold that also looked like a PCV valve.

[ehsnils]

If you can't find a gasket you can make one. You can buy gasket material at Autozone and other similar places. Takes some patience, but I have done that myself so it's not a problem. Mount it with sealant to make sure that it's not leaking.

 

I prefer the high temperature orange silicone sealant that you can buy. It works for almost every case. Just let it set before you start the engine. And make sure that the surfaces are clean. Also - don't use too much.

 

The vacuum lines to the cam covers is the crankcase vents, there may be a PCV at one or both of them. Just unplug from manifold and plug the manifold half while letting the camcover end vent to the surroundings. At worst it may breathe some oil droplets but it shouldn't be bad. If you worry let the end go into a bucket or a container but don't plug the crankcase vents because then you will build an overpressure in the crankcase and possibly pop seals.

 

And notice that the PCV valve and crankcase ventilation is an emissions thing. The engine will run well without that connected as long as the crankcase is vented.

 

The brake servo is also vacuum operated and if the brake servo is acting up you will also get into strange problems so plug that line too. Just be aware that if you drive with that disconnected you will have to push a lot harder on the brake pedal. But for testing stationary it's not a problem.

 

As for parts - check with http://fredbeansparts.com/ they may be able to help you.

[subikid90]

i dont have any of the tools to check pressures. And i updated the previous post, after you posted this. that gasket between the IAC and intake manifold was flaking and breaking apart, but i couldnt find this gasket on any of the auto parts stores website. And what is the vacuum line that is run to the cam covers on the motor? is that PCV valves? there was one ran to a place further down the intake manifold that also looked like a PCV valve.

 

If there is an autozone around you they rent tools for a deposit that you get back when you return the tool, aka its free.

[amorgan93]

If there is an autozone around you they rent tools for a deposit that you get back when you return the tool, aka its free.

 

new Bosch copper plugs, 1 new wire, got other wires tested and they are good. new PCV valve. at first car ran worse than it did before. And took forever to crank. Then itran great for a little while. Then back to running crappy and wont even run. i think maybe i need an Ignition control module. i talked to a subaru mechanic and he said to test the compression. also said it sounds kinda like a fuel injector. guess im gonna try some injector cleaner, and if that doesnt help, pull the injectors and get them tested somewhere. who knows

 

to run we need spark, proper fuel, and compression. new pump, fuel strainer, and fuel filter means it should be recieveing enough fuel. new plugs, plug wires means that if the ICM and coil are working correctly, assuming its in proper time and crank and cam sensors are good, it should be getting spark. the car developes a bad miss before it dies, like its missing on 2 cylinders or something ridiculous. then dies. but if i keep it running, it somewhat smooths out in the higher rpm range. Sometimes it has a bad miss at idle, and sometimes it will idle without any miss. Sometimes if i keep it a 2k rpm it will run with no misses, and sometimes at 2k rpm it will miss badly. driving me nuts

 

update: this guy must know what hes talking about. I poured 1/2 a can of seafoam into my gas tank and let the car run, i would rev it and it would miss then the miss would instantly clear up. and it would repeat this. now there is no miss, the car has been idling on its own for a good hour now, it never idled for more than 5 minutes before. still idles too low, around 400 rpm. and i think im gonna need a new belt, the one that turns the alternator.

[ehsnils]

Considering the rest an alternator belt is a minor issue.

[amorgan93]

Considering the rest an alternator belt is a minor issue.

 

yeah no kidding. any tips on pulling a steering rack? i'm gonna take a trip to the Pull-A-Part today and i will try and pull the steering rack off a legacy there. according to their inventory check, they have a 1993 and a 1992 legacy on their lot.

[subikid90]

I have heard bad things about bosch plugs. Hate to tell you that now but most people have problems with misfires, throw some NGKs in there and it should go away.

 

Putting seafoam in the gas tank means you must have a clogged injector that it is clearing out, since you replace the pump and filter.

[amorgan93]

I have heard bad things about bosch plugs. Hate to tell you that now but most people have problems with misfires, throw some NGKs in there and it should go away.

 

Putting seafoam in the gas tank means you must have a clogged injector that it is clearing out, since you replace the pump and filter.

 

well the car has improved, but still isnt the way i would like it. It runs very rough when starting cold, and has constant misfires, but if i hold my foot on the gas, around 2200rpm for about 2 or 3 minutes, the misses will slowly start going away, and will eventually go away completely and the car will be perfect throughout the 3000rpm range, with no misses, but if i hit around 4k reving, the misses will instantly come back, and if i keep my foot on the gas at 2k rpm the misses will clear up in about a minute. It will sit and idle for a long time once the misses go away, but will just randomly die after idling for about 20 minutes. and when i crank it back it will run good for another 20 minutes or so, but will randomly die again. quite confused...

[subikid90]

I think its gotta be the plugs or injector

[SBT]

Did you check to see if the timing belt jumped a cog? The roughness sounds more like a mis-aligned timing belt - rough at start, smooths out as the RPMs increase (more a function of the cam timing) and gets rough as you get to about/past 4K (again more a function of the cam timing). Also, if your IAC gasket is compromised, you may also have a larger IM leak, (but since you've sprayed that down - and why are you using BrakeKleen on the engine instead of CarbCleaner?)

 

The reason I mentioned the timing belt is that over time the cam belt tensioner (which is a hydraulic unit) wears out. So instead of holding the correct tension on the belt, it allows the belt to "flop" a bit, and it will jump a cog or two. If you haven't checked that, then I'd definitely check that.

[amorgan93]

Did you check to see if the timing belt jumped a cog? The roughness sounds more like a mis-aligned timing belt - rough at start, smooths out as the RPMs increase (more a function of the cam timing) and gets rough as you get to about/past 4K (again more a function of the cam timing). Also, if your IAC gasket is compromised, you may also have a larger IM leak, (but since you've sprayed that down - and why are you using BrakeKleen on the engine instead of CarbCleaner?)

 

The reason I mentioned the timing belt is that over time the cam belt tensioner (which is a hydraulic unit) wears out. So instead of holding the correct tension on the belt, it allows the belt to "flop" a bit, and it will jump a cog or two. If you haven't checked that, then I'd definitely check that.

 

but see the thing is, when the misses do go away, the motor runs perfectly smooth, as if its a new car no matter what rpm i am at, whether its idling, or 1k, or 2k rpm, doesn't matter up to 4k. Once the misses go away it feels fine, however they instantly come back if i rev it to 4k rpm. and the car will die if i don't hold my foot on the pedal. If it had jumped time a little, it should always run rough at the lower rpm range, but it doesn't always. And the motor quits for no reason, and likes to quit right as the radiator fans kick on. its like the power from the fans kicking on is too much for it to handle idling. i don't understand this car at all, and the fact i have a check engine light on, yet the computer gives no codes when diagnosed, really doesn't help.

 

also sometimes the motor dies as if i switched the key off. and soemtimes it will struggle, it will idle really low, then rev a little, the idle really low again and die.

[SBT]

Idling rough and then smoothing as you rev is usually a sign that there's a vacuum leak someplace. BTW - have you checked your battery ground(s) - there's several. Maybe the ECU isn't getting the ground reference it needs or the alternator isn't.... wish you were closer, could check it out.

[amorgan93]

Idling rough and then smoothing as you rev is usually a sign that there's a vacuum leak someplace. BTW - have you checked your battery ground(s) - there's several. Maybe the ECU isn't getting the ground reference it needs or the alternator isn't.... wish you were closer, could check it out.

 

went to local pull a part. got a TPS, MAF sensor and airbox cover, ICM, and crank angle sensor. Put on the TPS and everything improved, but it still want perfect. Changing the ICM didn't do anything. changed the crank position sensor and the car seems to be fixed. I changed the MAF just for fun and nothing changed. The car will sit on the stands and run just fine for a good amount of time, about 20 minutes, and it will just randomly die, as if i turned off the ignition. it wont struggle or anything, it will just turn off. i tried leaving a heavy object on the gas pedal so that instead of idling at 700 rpm it stayed at 1500 rpm, let it run like that for around 20 minutes, and instead of dying, the rpms just dropped to around 700r rpm, and when i removed the object from the gas pedal, the car instantly died. But it will rank right back up and run for another 20 minutes, and die, and just repeat the process. Any ideas?