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Probably Changing clutch, what to do at the same time?


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Yeah, I think the towing the previous owner did severely shortened the life of the clutch.

 

anyways, clutch kit has been ordered as well as a couple other goodies to make my drivetrain a tad stiffer

 

-sachs clutch kit

-group N transmission mount

-group N rear shifter bushing

-group N trans cross member bushing kit

-perrin hardened shifter bushings

 

can't wait to get the new goods installed! hah

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I'm about to sell my perrin shifter bushing and group-n rear bushing because it created a terrible driveline shake. The group-N transmission mount will raise your transmission too high most likely and your exhaust will hit your crossmember. You need the 6spd mount in order to have the correct height mount.

 

If your car is nice to drive after all that, I'll be surprised, it's been haunting me for a few months now. The perrin bushing in itself, with everything stock, made the engine slam on the pitch stop and mounts for some reason.

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I'm about to sell my perrin shifter bushing and group-n rear bushing because it created a terrible driveline shake. The group-N transmission mount will raise your transmission too high most likely and your exhaust will hit your crossmember. You need the 6spd mount in order to have the correct height mount.

 

If your car is nice to drive after all that, I'll be surprised, it's been haunting me for a few months now. The perrin bushing in itself, with everything stock, made the engine slam on the pitch stop and mounts for some reason.

 

I've honestly never heard anyone say that about any of those parts. People say added NVH but I really don't care about that

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Neither have I, so I guess I shouldn't have said it would DEFINITELY happen to you, but it's a possibility.

 

I don't see how the transmission mount will fit though, being that we both have '05 2.5is. Let us know, it will at least let me know if my car is a freak!

 

The added NVH for me was more harshness, and not noise. Driving became a chore because I had to baby the clutch so the drivetrain wouldn't buck around in the chassis. When I removed everything and went back to stock, it all returned to a normal driving experience.

 

Where'd you get your parts from?

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Sure. I thought the same thing, but apparently the transmission transmits motion through the shift linkage to the body. When that is stiffened up, it started putting all the stress on the pitch stop, causing the engine to lift up. I had my dad verify this while I pulled in and out of the garage. This would create a clunking noise, and it made every shift harder. Now that I'm back to stock, the car is back to normal again!. Keep in mind I was using brand new engine mounts and a new pitch stop too.

 

If you manage to get the Group-N 5MT mount in, this MIGHT not happen to you, because it's a very very beefy mount. I wasn't able to though.

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  • I Donated
So I'm probably changing my clutch soon as it's starting to slip. Gonna try to do it ourselves. Is there anything else I should change while the transmission is out? I was thinking transmission mounts, shift bushings and maybe a short throw. Anything else that when it's apart would be beneficial to change?

 

The shift bushings are a pain to replace when the transmission is still in the car. I've done them both with the trans in and out (on older models though).

 

Don't forget to replace or re-surface your flywheel when you do the clutch. If you're looking for performance, look into getting a lightweight flywheel with a stage 1 clutch. Excedy has some decently priced kits

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  • 7 months later...
Don't forget to replace or re-surface your flywheel when you do the clutch. If you're looking for performance, look into getting a lightweight flywheel with a stage 1 clutch. Excedy has some decently priced kits

 

I'd like to improve performance but I don't want a really stiff pedal. Is this like a "stock or stiff" mod or is there a gradient of stiffness?

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A gradient of stiffness in the pedal? with a stage 1 clutch?

 

I mean is a stage 1 (whatever that technically means) slightly stiffer than stock versus a stage 3 which is a workout during your commute vs. a stage 35 which requires a bionic leg?

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  • 3 weeks later...
Ok, going with stock replacement (no stage 1). Does it make any sense to install a TSK if there are no signs of wear (or minimal wear)? Using TSK means I will need to use the larger diameter TOBs as long as I keep the sleeve on there right? I'm thinking it is just unnecessary cost if I don't have wear. Any thoughts? Any other seals I should replace with 140k while in there?
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