mattg Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 Hub was replaced yesterday and it looks like it didn't fix anything. Still have the ABS light and can still hear a slight low speed clicking coming from the RF. Mechanic checked it out again thoroughly, ran it on the rack and couldn't hear the noise. He did hear it after the hub was replaced and we drove the car. I haven't checked the codes yet to see if anything changed. Kind of frustrating paying $225 for a proactive wheel bearing replacement, my bearing was fine BTW. I would rather be putting this $$ into suspension mods. I think we're going to replace the RF sensor next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Man, that sucks. The first time I saw the code it took me two weeks to figure it all out. I have the cell phone number of the one and only true Subaru Technical Service Agent. He is the mechanic who travels the country with the all powerful Subie tool. He answers the internal tech questions from dealerships too. He is the one who gave me all the info on the system and how it works. You can check the cables with your meter. You can also verify signal is getting to the ABS Computer. I feel your pain. If you need to shoot me a PM and I can give you the techs contact info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burock Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Like I said earlier, replace the sensor and buy extras for the other wheels. These things are unreliable and sensitive to the slightest manipulation. I was going nuts trying to figure this out until I finally replaced the sensor. Had same issues as you are having. There is almost no way a front wheel bearing should cause that code. This is electrical, not mechanical. COuld have bought a nice sway bar and endlinks for the price of those un-needed wheel bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 PM replied with Subie tech contact info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 I changed the sensor and still have the issue. Nothing changed, same codes etc... I did call the Subie tech and he is a little stumped by my situation as well. He did say that disconnecting the battery may not clear the codes. That one of the several computers that control the system might be holding onto the codes. He said I could unhook the connector to the ABS control unit and that might clear the codes. He also suggested I take it to a dealer so they could diagnose it with the SSM3 which is the Subaru diagnostic computer/scanner. My mechanic suggested we slide the RF axle out of the hub assy and take a look there. No good news but that's where I'm at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Disconnected the ABS control unit. We'll see what that does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burock Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 If you had a code for both front wheel sensors, then both of them might need to be replaced. It is a cheap fix, and if this doesn't fix it, you'll need 'em in the future anyhow. Sounds like a frustrating problem. Let us know what finally solves it, so the rest of us know how to fix these things when they inevitably pop up on someone else's ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted February 26, 2011 Author Share Posted February 26, 2011 If it was a speed sensor issue the code for the RF would have gone away after I replaced the RF speed sensor. My next step is getting the car hooked up to a SSM3. I found an independent shop that has one. And I still have all the codes after unplugging the ABS module and disconnecting the battery overnight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Well this muthaf$%@ing problem is finally solved! The shop that had the SSM3 was able to isolate the problem to the RR tone ring, it had a ding in it. Finally got that hub swapped for a new OEM last night, problem solved. No more clicking either. I the clicking was actually coming from the ABS module under the hood because of the SS signal problem caused by the dented tone ring. It's funny too, there really is no gap for debris to get in there. Not sure how it happened. So 5 months and $500 later... Can't tell you how nice it is to not have the clicking, ABS light and to finally be able to use cruise again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Nice work. Do you have any pics? "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 You want to see the tone ring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Ding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 About time! Glad to hear you're back on the road click free and cruise enabled! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinman Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Might be the same problem I have with my '05 Wagon. My mechanic has looked at my car twice already and still cannot find anything wrong with it. Thankfully he hasn't charged me for anything either. He has disengaged and cleaned the sensors. The ABS and ER SS don't come up all the time, but usually if I drive the car for more then 20-30 minutes it will show up. I'm wondering if this will do any damage to my car. I think I hear a clicking sound from the front of the car. Almost like a baseball card stuck in a bicycle spoke. Paul at DB Tuned is a very good mechanic so I trust him. It's just frustrating we cannot solve this. Is the tone ring expensive to replace? My error code says the left rear wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRRICH Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 http://tinypic.com/ehcg0h.jpg http://tinypic.com/ehcg2x.jpg you want the white connectors, not the green, fyi. What is the green connector for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobo2701 Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 What is the green connector for? green connectors are for reflashing the ecu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raffer02 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Mattg, I am having the exact same problem. I got the codes saying that 3 sensors are giving abnormal readings (both rear and the front right). The front right sensor was replaced just about 5 months ago. The front left wheel hub is also new. I have the front right hub still in the box, but I was waiting for it to go bad before putting it in. I have no clue what to do from here or what to replace. After reading your problem it sounds like my only option is to take it in to a dealer and have them hook it up to a computer. I would love to get my cruise control back and abs working before winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob in Chicago Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) Had my ABS light come on during a monster rainstorm going about 60 mph. "ER SS" code showed up, too. Cruise-control also not working; but no CEL. Braking functions fine. It is a 91K '05 5EAT. I tried restarting it several times, but ABS lite stays on. I'm hoping it was all that water getting into wires, but will check in the morning when all is dried out. Thanks for all the info on this problem from all previous posters! Edited September 8, 2015 by Bob in Chicago typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob in Chicago Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 After sitting overnight, the ABS light went out after I drove it ten feet and used the brakes. Guess it fixed itself, now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Thanks. Funny how the manual says the fuse box is under the right side of the drivers seat, when it's actually behind the door on the lower left part of the dash. So I have codes - C0115 - means I have a problem with an ABS speed sensor. C0105 - Abnormal signal from RR speed sensor C0107 - Abnormal signal from RF speed sensor Now I'm really confused. I wasn't expecting to see codes from 2 corners. I took it back to America's yesterday and they took a look at it. There was nothing noticeably out of the ordinary. I may need to get her back on my buddy's lift to take a closer look. Thoughts? Exact same codes today. Gonna try this first though... http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2794600&postcount=17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRRICH Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 I just had my LR sensor throw a code. I have replaced two of these over the years (LR,RR) but I have forgotten if there is a way to troubleshoot the sensor. I tested for continuity thinking the sensor is just a coil of wire and the hub has a magnet that would create a "pulse" as it goes by but got nothing (open circuit). Anyone know if this is a correct way to electrically check the sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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