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ABS light + Er 55


mattg

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This came up on my dash today. I did some research to see what it meant. Sounds like an ABS/speed sensor.

 

I had new tires installed yesterday so I called the tire shop to see what they had to say. The guy said those sensors aren't located in a place where they could be bumped or effected during tire R&I. I guess it's a ring inside the hub or something. Kind of a strange coincidence though.

 

Oh I did change from 225/45-17's to 205/50-17's for winter. I did all 4 though and they are the same O.D. as the 225/45's so I don't think that has anything to do w/ it.

 

What say LGT.com?

 

Thanks

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You have a faulty speed sensor signal. The ER SS code is coming from the Tranny. The ABS light is telling you it is ABS. I can give instructions on how to put the car in test mode and have it tell you exactly which wheel is bad.

 

The lines extend down from the fender onto the strut and then to the wheel (up front). Tire shops damage them every now and then. Dont let them fool you.

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Thanks. Funny how the manual says the fuse box is under the right side of the drivers seat, when it's actually behind the door on the lower left part of the dash.

 

So I have codes -

 

C0115 - means I have a problem with an ABS speed sensor.

C0105 - Abnormal signal from RR speed sensor

C0107 - Abnormal signal from RF speed sensor

 

Now I'm really confused. I wasn't expecting to see codes from 2 corners. I took it back to America's yesterday and they took a look at it. There was nothing noticeably out of the ordinary.

 

I may need to get her back on my buddy's lift to take a closer look.

 

Thoughts?

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Sensors are VERY touchy. Pulling the lines too hard can cause small breaks in the wire inside the insulation. This can cause bad readings. Might not visibly see damage. Also, sensor "pick up" is a ring on the axle. If ring is damaged or slipping, bad speed signal.

 

The speed signal your TCU is getting from the wheel sensors does not match with the vehicle speed sensors in the tranny. Hence the ER SS code. This too can be caused by someone spinning the tires for a bit when the car is off. Spinning out in snow triggers the codes you see. If the tire guys played with spinning the wheels that could be it.

 

Try disconnecting the battery for about an hour and pumping the brakes some (to drain power). Resetting the TCU and ABS computer might be all you need. If the bad signal is stored but no longer present, it will clear itself after a bit.

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I'll try disconnecting the battery. I've had this car since new and it's been in the snow a bunch and I've never seen this ABS issue. And I trust the guys at America's. Strange coincidence though.

 

I also had my brakes done a few weeks back but the issue happened the next day after the new tires. I did pick the car up and drive it home after the new tires and had no code. The next morning I made it all the way up to the mountain (25 miles) before it threw the code. I did get on snow and their was probably some slip when I was testing the new tires. The code popped up right before I parked. Nothing out of the ordinary though, except for a new tire size (should be same O.D.) And I'm coming into my 6th winter in the OR mountains so the car has seen plenty of snow.

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Never popped on me in the snow either. But have seen it on others. Have seen it from a few things now. Just sounds like you might have had 1 side of the car slipping enough. Its no big deal really. Just an annoyance (if the snow is all that caused it).
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Left the battery disconnected overnight. Still have the issue. First start after reflash the ABS light was on. Then it went out while the car was warming up. Started driving and the code popped up when I made it to ~ 25mph, like it has been doing.

 

I can hear a slight speed-dependent clicking while driving slowly, coming from the RF. Maybe that's a clue. Next step is to get her up on the rack for a closer look.

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ABS sensor "pick up" is a ring that is pressed onto the end of the axle. If the ring is damaged (tool marks) it messes with pick up sometimes. I have also seen the rings come "unpressed", meaning they are slipping on the axle. When the axle spins, the ring does not and you get a code.
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  • 2 months later...

Still have this issue. We pulled the speed sensors from both the passenger side hubs, they were really dirty so we cleaned them up and reinstalled. The guy who works on my car thought that was going to fix the issue but it didn't. I still have the same codes and I can still hear a speed dependent clicking from the RF when moving slowly (up to 20mph).

 

I haven't had the time up until now to look at this problem again. Now my mechanic is super busy. I am stumped by the way this problem came on and the fact that I have codes from 2 wheels. The clicking has to be some sort of a clue.

 

The clicking has nothing to do with my c/v axles.

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Happened to my car a couple of years ago. New speed sensor was something like $38 and fixed the problem once and for all. These things are sensitive to any kind of manipulation or stress. Car only had like 10,000 miles on it but fixed it myself because I didn't want the dealership to see my little extras on the car. Find out which sensor is bad and just replace it.
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I may have to do that. The strange thing is I have a code for both the RF and RR sensors. What are the chances of both of them going bad out of the blue? Did you notice a slight clicking noise like I'm having?
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Dealer got me on my first Subaru (used) with that trick. Three tires were the same size and one didn't match. All were the same brand and model.
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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Matt,

Cleaning the sensors in the wheel is not the trick. The image is picked up from the chip in the bearing. There is no way to test the chip in the bearing. If the sensor is good and the TCU still says it is bad its the bearing. No way to see any damage. Must just trust that you checked the wiring and signal from sensor (the one that bolts into the knuckle). From there you need to replace the wheel bearings. They will have new embedded chips in the new ones.

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I was afraid of that. I still don't get how the RF & RR go bad at the same time the day after I got new tires.

 

I think we'll do the RF first because that's where the clicking is coming from. Maybe the RR will clear itself after the front is fixed. IIRC the front is an easier fix than the rear, correct?

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