06wrxlbart Posted July 18, 2010 Share Posted July 18, 2010 Alright guys I need you best opinion on this. Im kind of annoyed with the shake. 1. Had new tires installed 2k miles 2. Had alignment done right after new tire install just to make sure 3. Installed new rotors/pads yesterday The shake while braking has definitely decreased by a lot but its still there and annoys the shit out of me. Specs tires : Falken ZX-512, Rotors/pads - Centric / posi quiet ceramic pads. Bought it all from a vendor on here. Do I need some kind of underbody brace to stiffen a few things up here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06wrxlbart Posted July 18, 2010 Author Share Posted July 18, 2010 Wheels were balanced out and the shop did not mention anything about the wheels being bent or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkside Posted July 18, 2010 Share Posted July 18, 2010 Check your Lower control arm bushings. Mine are torn. Mine makes car shake like a crazy when hiting brakes from 40 and up. Got replacement bushings home, just expensive to install. If you got new pads, rotors, tires, Try the stoptech pad break in process, you can google it. Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06wrxlbart Posted July 19, 2010 Author Share Posted July 19, 2010 Now im thinking my control arm bushings are shot, would that cause sloppy steering/ steering wheel bounce back when hitting a pot hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 The shake while braking has definitely decreased by a lot but its still there and annoys the shit out of me. QUOTE] Geez guy's come on....how many times to we need to say this. You need to re-bed your brakes, it's pretty common on these cars. Do 4-5 hard "allmost" stop's from 55mph do this as fast as possible, one right after the other, then drive for 1 mile without stopping. You need to stand on the brakes till just before the ABS kicks in each time. You will also learn what's call thrushold braking by do this. The max amount of pedal effort with out lock up. You'll want to brake hard ever now then to keep the pads clean. Get them baby's hot, that's what they were designed for. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Geez guy's come on....how many times to we need to say this. You need to re-bed your brakes, it's pretty common on these cars. Do 4-5 hard "allmost" stop's from 55mph do this as fast as possible, one right after the other, then drive for 1 mile without stopping. You need to stand on the brakes till just before the ABS kicks in each time. You will also learn what's call thrushold braking by do this. The max amount of pedal effort with out lock up. You'll want to brake hard ever now then to keep the ROTORS clean. Get them baby's hot, that's what they were designed for. Fixed, otherwise agreed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06wrxlbart Posted July 19, 2010 Author Share Posted July 19, 2010 I already did this guys. I get wheel shake just cruising. I cant definitely guarantee its not the wheel balancing or even bent rims, the shop that installed my tires is pretty good at this stuff. I did 6 45-35 to 0 stops and 2 80-70 to 0 stop. Of course not locking up. Im thinking control arm bushings, in order to replace the bushings do I need to have them pushed in by hydraulics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06wrxlbart Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 I think I figured it out 41 psi on passenger side and 34 psi on drivers side that was odd. I Think that was causing the wheel shake, we shall see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowFast Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 I already did this guys. I get wheel shake just cruising. I cant definitely guarantee its not the wheel balancing or even bent rims, the shop that installed my tires is pretty good at this stuff. I did 6 45-35 to 0 stops and 2 80-70 to 0 stop. Of course not locking up. Im thinking control arm bushings, in order to replace the bushings do I need to have them pushed in by hydraulics? I have the same issues, I have rebedded the brakes numerous times, it fixes the issue for a day or two and then back to the shake. I understand the phylosophy of having to brake hard every once in awhile to clear the rotors but I have never with any car I have owned had this type of issue like the LGT. It is very anoying and has me questioning the safety of the design. The funny thing is, the shake goes away if you brake hard, it is the medium pressure braking that causes the shake. BTW I have wilwood calipers with Hawk HPS pads and Slotted rotors. But I had the same issue when i had the stock brakes, my hope was the Wilwoods would solve the problem. Also have replaced ball joints, tierod ends, and LCA bushing, problem still persists. I drive 60 miles a day for work and this is driving me insane. Wheels and tires are almost brand new as well and were roadforce balanced. Short of rebuilding the entire front end (which I have practically already done) how do I solve this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate510 Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 I have the same issue as LowFast and 06wrxlbart. Its the light to medium braking that causes the shake. I had my mechanic replace the pads and re-surface the rotors and that fixed it for a little while (couple weeks) then the problem comes back. I agree that using the brakes hard makes the problem go away for a short time, then it comes back. I took off my rotors and cleaned off any kind of build up of brake dust and rust I could see on the center portion. Used brake cleaner on the calipers and pads put everything back and the shake went away for a day. I'm just "living" with it until I can figure it out, but it still bugs the shit outa me too!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06wrxlbart Posted July 24, 2010 Author Share Posted July 24, 2010 You guys ever try something like a A ARM BRACE ? My EVO has it and it doesnt shake at 60 ++ Its smooth as balls both braking and driving. I would try a front strut bar, Aarm brace and a lower chassis front end brace. I think the vibration is due to shitty tires also and unbalanced wheels. Ill keep you guys up to date on my progress with my suspension modifications and will see if it eliminates the vibration etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06wrxlbart Posted July 24, 2010 Author Share Posted July 24, 2010 I have the same issue as LowFast and 06wrxlbart. Its the light to medium braking that causes the shake. I had my mechanic replace the pads and re-surface the rotors and that fixed it for a little while (couple weeks) then the problem comes back. I agree that using the brakes hard makes the problem go away for a short time, then it comes back. I took off my rotors and cleaned off any kind of build up of brake dust and rust I could see on the center portion. Used brake cleaner on the calipers and pads put everything back and the shake went away for a day. I'm just "living" with it until I can figure it out, but it still bugs the shit outa me too!! What rims and tires do you run ? What suspension mods do you run ? What braces do you have ? I would also imagine the harder the bushings transitions to more vibration thats why there's more motion in the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06wrxlbart Posted July 24, 2010 Author Share Posted July 24, 2010 I have the same issues, I have rebedded the brakes numerous times, it fixes the issue for a day or two and then back to the shake. I understand the phylosophy of having to brake hard every once in awhile to clear the rotors but I have never with any car I have owned had this type of issue like the LGT. It is very anoying and has me questioning the safety of the design. The funny thing is, the shake goes away if you brake hard, it is the medium pressure braking that causes the shake. BTW I have wilwood calipers with Hawk HPS pads and Slotted rotors. But I had the same issue when i had the stock brakes, my hope was the Wilwoods would solve the problem. Also have replaced ball joints, tierod ends, and LCA bushing, problem still persists. I drive 60 miles a day for work and this is driving me insane. Wheels and tires are almost brand new as well and were roadforce balanced. Short of rebuilding the entire front end (which I have practically already done) how do I solve this issue? What rims and tires do you run ? What suspension mods do you run ? What braces do you have ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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