Ridgeracer Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Kinda curious as to what values ppl run in this table if you have a hot air intake (AVO intake) and a FMIC. I could be idling at a light and see my IAT go as high as 140-150 deg F. With the stock values my map will pull up to 4 degs across the map which kills power big time. I so wish I had another temp sensor after the intercooler to tell me what the actual charge temps are. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 I'm glad you posted this. I thought I remembered lowering these values but apparently I've left them stock. The last few days of 99-101 degrees made the car very sluggish. I plan to zero it till 140 deg, then cut the next two cells in half. The WBR FMIC is large enough it should be able to handle the extra work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 Im pretty sure an approximate slope can be calculated but I was just curious to see what real world tests ppl have done...4 degs my motor is like 30 whp.. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 I would just taper it off. IIRC 0 comp is at about 68F, then slowly ramp it up to about -2 degrees at 140F, your FMIC should never really get any hotter then that. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Since it's incoming air temps, I know it'll see 170+ degrees on days when it's 100 ambient. Once driving it'll go down but since the temp sensor heat soaks it takes a few minutes before it gets to "sane" temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 I was monitoring inlet temps today in 90+ deg weather and it went up to as high as 150. Started flattening it out like you said LBGT and the car seems happy...no timing being pulled but it will learn some low load knock then add it back later... "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 no timing being pulled but it will learn some low load knock then add it back later... I don't get that phrase. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 Well I will see a low load cell in LV being populated with -1.41 degs being pulled. Then 10 minutes later during normal stop and go, it goes back to all zeros... "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryo Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 I'm glad you posted this. I thought I remembered lowering these values but apparently I've left them stock. The last few days of 99-101 degrees made the car very sluggish. I plan to zero it till 140 deg, then cut the next two cells in half. The WBR FMIC is large enough it should be able to handle the extra work. I halfed from 100-140, seems to make stop and go traffic in 90-100f much more tolerable and does not register any knock or pull timing. I dont drive aggressive in temps like this anyway but still want regular drivability at low speeds. I see 150-160f iat in about 10-15 minutes of traffic. Dave [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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