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Should i pick up the H6?


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when schools out im going to my brothers, a more populated area. but im going there for the time it takes to do what i need to do. and were going to junkyards to salavge doors, trunks, forestor struts maybe, and my be a donor car for a 5sp conversion.

 

also, how much would you pay for doors? struts? wheels?

 

but if i happen to come across an H6 what should i look at before buying. basically, fell me in on these motors. how much you would pay for a h6? what kinda H6 should i look for? is it worth it? I wanna stay N/a and adding 2 pistons seems like a could way to get more power.

 

what are the common problems if any with the H6's i have not read much about them and i have not seen may on here.

 

now i know its not a easy swap. i know its goona take time and i wouldnt be doing it at my bros. i would bring it back and get it ready and learned myself about the swap.

 

i mostly looking for tips on junkyard survival while shopping for an H6.

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i just read some info on nasioc and i not likeing the tones they give off. granted it was an 08 they were swapping though.

 

open to input about the swap now. probably a no right? but answers for the other questions would be sweet

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H6 EG33 or EZ30R swap is easier in our cars then 08 but less room. the wiring is like wiring a wrx swap. You can still use your transmission and current diffs as well. It will bolt up. If you are lucky and have a 96-97 SVX setup then things are a lot easier. But most engines EG33s are OBD1 which become a PITA.

 

Problems are motor mount alignment and it will take more room length wise not width towards the front of the car requiring slim fans or fans mounted on other side of radiator. Wiring harness merge. That's all the problems you will have.

 

A guy locally is currently doing a eg33(SVX) in his BD sedan. Using his stock automatic drivetrain for now.

 

Yes your stock drivetrain can handle the power.

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your going to have a shitload of power and matched up with the nice gear ratio of the bd 3.90 compared to the outbacks 4.11. I have an outback with an H6 and it pulls on wrx's like its nothing.

 

the only thing i hate about it is the spark plugs even in the outback thier a pita to get to the rears. and to top it off its not like our cars where we have coil distributors they have coil packs which if u want go change u need to have the hand the size of a pencil with the strength of Chuck Norris paired with the craftiness of macgiver to get the B****es out. I done it once, and the second time i let the subaru dealership work their magic.

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the only thing i hate about it is the spark plugs even in the outback thier a pita to get to the rears. and to top it off its not like our cars where we have coil distributors they have coil packs which if u want go change u need to have the hand the size of a pencil with the strength of Chuck Norris paired with the craftiness of macgiver to get the B****es out. I done it once, and the second time i let the subaru dealership work their magic.

 

So true, area1320 do WRX spark plug change for 37.50 labor so I'm guess H6 is 56.25 labor. :lol: So about $70 for WRX and $100 for H6 using Iridium NGKs. To me 37.50 is worth not having to bitch, get hand cramps, and back aches.

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well if the spark plugs suck i guess i just call it off. hahaha. but you guys got me back on it agian.

 

so anything that used a obd2 harness and computer. should i try and just get the harness too. i cant used my harness. plus if i do this my motor is going in my bros buggy. so he would want to scape everything. just the systems needed to run a motor.

 

i have never dealt with this many wires but most the car has all different plugs. is it kinda like a "if it fits it goes there" thats how computers are.

 

so what would to pay a junkyard one of these

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idk, the one thing is you said you run FWD sometimes because your rear diff has issues,

 

 

i think an H6 will blow your rear diff up if its leaking.

 

ya the wires are

 

 

"IF THEY FIT, THAT MUST BE WHER THEY GO"

 

the issue is if you forget to plug one in, and end up with an extra wire at the end and cant get at where it fits.

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haha, and i dont have diff problems. i just run fwd in the summer to prolong the life of things.

 

so whats a list of all the H6's(models they're in) that would be good for a swap.

 

how much power those things make? i would guess 250?

 

 

 

yummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

SUBARU_EZ36_001.thumb.jpg.636c4731567a3c6c68c0f8743ddd114a.jpg

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i have a 95 svx and it makes 230 to all wheels and thats all stock so your definitely gunna see a power increase and like he said i would go with something with obdII good luck and post pics along the way

(my outback might need the same treatment ;) )

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The only problem with the EG33 swap is the OBDI part. As far as I know, it is a violation of federal law to install an OBDI engine into an OBDII car for emissions reasons. You could get an OBDII SVX, but they didn't sell as well as the earlier SVX's.

 

The H6 is a very good motor though. I'd try to stick with an EG33 because they had great power (230-240 HP), and when you put an exhaust on them they sound like a high powered exotic vehicle, like a Porsche. Plus, the internals were pretty much EJ22 parts, so you know they're tough. The only issue is going to be the transmission. If you use an auto transmission, you will NEED an aftermarket oil cooler for the transmission fluid. Finding and installing them isn't hard, but its one more thing you're gonna need in the long run. If you switch to a 5 speed it would be much easier. I'm not sure if you'll have to switch the rear diff, since I Think the ratios in the manual transmissions are different from the automatics. Either way, the SVX was built with the Legacy drivetrain, so it shouldn't be that hard to get parts. There are tons of second gens in junkyards (Around here they're mostly in there for head gasket faliures. Its very sad :().

 

Junkyards and the areas they are in make it hard to judge what parts will cost, but I'd say about $100-130 for a door is reasonable considering they have power windows and locks. I would never buy struts at a junkyard because they are pretty much all worn out. Shocks and struts are some of the most neglected maintenance items on cars. If you're just getting these struts for the ride height advantage and nothing else, I'd say $30-50 a piece is good. For plain steel wheels without tires I'd pay about $20-25 a piece. For steel wheels with tires maybe $30 a piece, and for plain steel wheels with choice (Really good condition) tires maybe $50 a piece. For alloy wheels without tires maybe $50-75 a piece depending on size and condition.

 

Engine pricing is always different. It depends on the size, condition, mileage, age, components (Mostly turbo or N/A), and if the engine still runs or not. I'd say between $300-800 for an EG33 engine (If you can find one), between $800-1,500 for an EZ30 engine, and an insane amount for the EZ36, since they are still brand new. The problem is finding any of these engines. H6 Subaru motors aren't too common, especially in junkyards. Transmissions aren't too expensive, maybe $200-300 for a 5 speed and $300-400 for an automatic without the torque converter. The problem is making sure they work. You can't tell if the synchros are any good without the vehicle moving, and unless you're willing to replace the clutch right off the bat its kind of a risky thing.

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damn 130 for a doors was not expected. ok. well im just getting my feet wet so if i see it in the junkyard i can be a smart shopper. this trip is mostly for body work. maybe a transmission to rebuild. and a window.

 

what would you do. i have a little rust getting under the window and its craked anyway so i was goona pull the window, fix the rust. and have someone put a window in for the junk yard. or would it be better to buy a new window. i know im crazy to restore this car but if i don't i would feel like i quit on it.

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