Install nightmare. Help!

[BlackOnBlackGT]

Okay so here's the deal. I installed an up pipe and down pipe on the car last night. I ran into two issues. One is that one of the studs going from the up pipe to the turbo was too tall for the downpipe to clear and succesfully mate to the turbo.

 

Anyone have this issue before? I'm running it without the bolt right now, but I'm sure it may be causing a leak. I don't know for sure because I got the downpipe on, but haven't mated it to the mid pipe so I ran open downpipe on the way home from a buddys house so I could finish working on it.

 

Problem numero 2. Someone cross threaded the ******* turbo stud at the bottom that mates to the downpipe via a nut. Lucky for me the whole stud came out so I'm able to install a new. Can I just put a bolt through it? Or must I get a new stud and nut ( I just don't want to start taking things apart again.

 

Good news is I put the EGT sensor back in and I have no CEL. (I think most leave this out and do a resistor mod) Then again I haven't reinstalled the o2 sensor either and don't have a check light, so maybe the CEL light isn't working.

 

Lastly, I left all heat shields off due to not having the proper tools. So the heat shield that was once on the passenger side exhaust manifold (between the up pipe and cross pipe) is not on and neither is the turbo heat shield. Will this cause any probems?

 

I appreciate any answers. This install has been by far the biggest nightmare and I'm home today from work to try and finish it up so any advice would be great.

[LosAngelesLGT]

This is NOT a nightmare. This is VERY annoying, I agree but not a nightmare. Not even a huge deal. Take a deep breath and stop expecting everything to go perfectly the first try and you will be fine.

 

First of all this happened on my car... And my friend Ryans car... The studs supplied with our UP were too tall.

 

Because you were able to re-install the EGT I can only assume that you are not installing a M2 up like I have because it is too shallow to allow the sensor probe to seat into the pipe. I did away with my sensor (unplugged it and put it in my craftsman rollaway) and jumped the sensor with a 2.2k ohm .5w resistor. It was SUPER easy. No CEL.

 

The studs that are blocking the proper install are too long, you are right. They need to be replaced with the oem hardware that you took out (and put in a box or rethreaded into your oem up?). This should allow you to put it together properly.

 

Problem #2 is not really a problem. IMO you know what you should do. DO IT RIGHT. You have the headshield off already. That is 90% of the battle for DP removal... It is not even connected to the MID! When and if you have to take it back apart you want it to be all the same not mamby-pamby.

 

I wouldn't worry about the UP shielding. I did not do it either nor would oem shielding fit my UP. I guess I could have wrapped it but... Come on... I am stage 2!

 

The turbo heat shield can be trimmed with a pair of metal snips and determination. The guy who trimmed my heatshield with snips was half my size. Let me know if you need pics.

 

Hope it helps.

[BlackOnBlackGT]

Well, the reason it's a nightmare for me is because It should've taken 4 hours tops we're probably around 8 hours invested right now (the one crossthreaded stud took a good hour+ to get out) and then other misc issues. I guess me being limited on time is what is stressing me out so bad and the fact that I had to miss work for it. I should've taken it to the shop, but figured it should be pretty easy and wanted to save a few hundred bucks. But If you'd like I can change my thread name to VERY ANNOYING INSTALL, HELP!

[Darkness of Death]

for the downpipe stud. i think you should be ok if you have something the same size and it tightens up alright.

 

the uppipe stud....dont know what to tell you..i've never come across this one before..so you might need to cut it . see what others have to say about it first though ~

[LosAngelesLGT]

Well, the reason it's a nightmare for me is because It should've taken 4 hours tops we're probably around 8 hours invested right now (the one crossthreaded stud took a good hour+ to get out) and then other misc issues. I guess me being limited on time is what is stressing me out so bad and the fact that I had to miss work for it. I should've taken it to the shop, but figured it should be pretty easy and wanted to save a few hundred bucks. But If you'd like I can change my thread name to VERY ANNOYING INSTALL, HELP!

 

Like I said, take a deep breath. A member spend almost 2 hours AT THE RACES fixing a cross-threaded UP pipe bolt that a SHOP did.

 

You figured it would be pretty easy and ran into some problems that made it really annoying. I am sorry. I *DO* understand. Just do it right and you will be happy in the end. Paying a shop is no promise of perfect work. You can do it just how you want it!

 

It really sucks that you missed a work day bro! If you were local I would give you a hand.

[grimsleeper]

Like I said, take a deep breath. A member spend almost 2 hours AT THE RACES fixing a cross-threaded UP pipe bolt that a SHOP did.

 

You figured it would be pretty easy and ran into some problems that made it really annoying. I am sorry. I *DO* understand. Just do it right and you will be happy in the end. Paying a shop is no promise of perfect work. You can do it just how you want it!

 

It really sucks that you missed a work day bro! If you were local I would give you a hand.

 

+1. My car's up on stands in the garage right now for the same reason. Noticed a severe lack of spool a few days ago, saw a large area of black soot around the turbo flange, went to tighten the nut and on first turn it popped off:lol: the thread on the stud had corroded to the point where there was nothing even holding the nut on anymore.

 

After a few unsuccessful attempts at extracting the stud I finally accepted my fate, and took the exhaust manifold off to pull the UP. I knew all along I had no one but myself to blame as this was a result of me forcing the stud and frozen nut back in during a turbo install a few weeks ago because *drum roll* I was running short on time and took a shortcut.

Of course the threads in the hole were also corroded and were pretty much non existent after pulling the stud out. At which point I realized that because of the location of the ruined hole (closest to turbo from pass. side) it wouldn't be possible to use a bolt/nut or enough clearance to re-thread for a larger stud. Rather than do a hack job on the flange I broke down and just bought a new UP, figure if anything it resets the timer on the flex section:rolleyes:

 

So anyway what began as simply going to tighten a nut down turned into a new uppipe and boatload of new gaskets plus the time and inconvenience of bumming rides to work 'till its delivered. The more stuff like this happens the more you'll get used to it. It could definitely be worse.

Honestly in the end I actually felt fortunate that I didn't have to spend much time chasing the leak. Not knowing what's wrong with your car is the frustrating part, once you know the rest is just a matter of willpower:)

[BlackOnBlackGT]

Yeah, stinks how some things turn out.

 

Anyway -- got the new stud in the turbo, so all is well there. I've got a slight leak from the downpipe to midpipe(3" dp and stock cbe) and don't have the 3-2.5" flange so that may be why. I never got the bolt into the up pipe because I didn't have time to take the down pipe out as I needed the car to get to work tomorrow. I flashed my new tune via infamous and it pulls beautifully. This weekend I'll probably pull the downpipe and fix the last bolt in the uppipe and everything should be good. A small leak won't kill me and it sounds pretty awesome, stock cbe sound with a ford turbo diesel motor whistle

[pierce88]

Yeah, stinks how some things turn out.

 

Anyway -- got the new stud in the turbo, so all is well there. I've got a slight leak from the downpipe to midpipe(3" dp and stock cbe) and don't have the 3-2.5" flange so that may be why. I never got the bolt into the up pipe because I didn't have time to take the down pipe out as I needed the car to get to work tomorrow. I flashed my new tune via infamous and it pulls beautifully. This weekend I'll probably pull the downpipe and fix the last bolt in the uppipe and everything should be good. A small leak won't kill me and it sounds pretty awesome, stock cbe sound with a ford turbo diesel motor whistle

 

All you have to do is flip the donut to solve that issue...

 

-Piece

[m sprank]

All you have to do is flip the donut to solve that issue...

 

-Pierce

 

Fixed, lol.

 

The bolt in the uppipe instead of a stud is no problem. You could shorten a stud, but why? This is normal with the M2 uppipe and a bellmouth downpipe. I noted this in other threads before.

[BlackOnBlackGT]

What do you mean flip the donut? I'm probably going to take the downpipe off on sunday and replace the stud. Problem is I started taking the downpipe off and it feels like another stud is going to come out of the turbo. As long as it doesn't break I can replace it so no big deal, but it's a bitch to come out. Car has a nice turbo whistle right now though Sure it's from the leak, but car runs flawlessly, pull great and is a blast to drive now (although taking it easy until I fix the leak, datalog and get a tune revision. It doesn't even sound like it's leaking from the up, just the mid, but I'm sure it missing a bolt definitely means there is some leak from the up pipe.

[pierce88]

The donut gasket between the midpipe and the downpipe...

 

Put the wider side on the downpipe side... Its in the perrin install instructions and I had no leaks when I had my Perrin 3inch DP and Stock Catback...

 

-Pierce

[pierce88]

Fixed, lol.

 

The bolt in the uppipe instead of a stud is no problem. You could shorten a stud, but why? This is normal with the M2 uppipe and a bellmouth downpipe. I noted this in other threads before.

 

 

Elove

 

-Pierce

[BlackOnBlackGT]

My gasket is the same both sides. I drove a bolt up through the bottom of the up pipe to the turbo and secured with a nut. Retightened the bolts from turbo to downpipe and checked the exhaust manifold to up/block. I redid the mid to downpipe and still have a leak. I can hear the turbo whistle (you know the sound those loud as turbo diesel trucks make) which leads me to believe I still have a leak and the mid to downpipe is still leaking slightly as I can smell the exhaust very clearly from in the car and it has a slight leak noise on start up and rev.

 

At this point I give up, I'll be taking the car to the shop on Wed to have it redone.

[integroid]

All you have to do with the stud is flip it so the long side goes into the up pipe....I have done this on that last 6 up pipes I have helped install without any clearence issues getting the DP back on...

[Guest LGT-NY]

And the winner is....

All you have to do with the stud is flip it so the long side goes into the up pipe....I have done this on that last 6 up pipes I have helped install without any clearence issues getting the DP back on...

[GTLEGACY007]

Yeah, stinks how some things turn out.

 

Anyway -- got the new stud in the turbo, so all is well there. I've got a slight leak from the downpipe to midpipe(3" dp and stock cbe) and don't have the 3-2.5" flange so that may be why. I never got the bolt into the up pipe because I didn't have time to take the down pipe out as I needed the car to get to work tomorrow. I flashed my new tune via infamous and it pulls beautifully. This weekend I'll probably pull the downpipe and fix the last bolt in the uppipe and everything should be good. A small leak won't kill me and it sounds pretty awesome, stock cbe sound with a ford turbo diesel motor whistle

 

 

Hey man running into the same problem as you with the stud in the turbo. Two questions:

1. How'd you get the stud out?

2. What did you replace it with and where did you get it?

[integroid]

use two nuts and lock them together.

 

You can get the right studs at Napa. I don't remember the exact size but they sell them in 2 packs.

[BlackOnBlackGT]

Hey man running into the same problem as you with the stud in the turbo. Two questions:

1. How'd you get the stud out?

2. What did you replace it with and where did you get it?

 

Luckily I just kept wrenching and the stud came out. In turn I cross threaded another stud going in, but no leaks so I won't mess with it until I upgrade the turbo. The above post is good advice though.

 

Also, I just used an OEM turbo stud.

[Tomkat1127]

I am desperate to find out the turbo stud size. I have one stripped bad and need to get it out and replaced. On my way now for a new dp to turbo basket. Dealer couldn't find me the stud or even the size. First thing i have done with this car and wouldn't u know the last bolt has to be a major PIANO.

[angeltalin]

Hey, i had alll the same problems with my Up pipe install, not knocking the brand but FMS?

[Tomkat1127]

Hey, i had alll the same problems with my Up pipe install, not knocking the brand but FMS?

 

 

I was doing a CNT downpipe install.

[Tomkat1127]

It is M10 x 1.25 studs. Found some in the Help!/Dormant products section. Exhaust stud kit for GM/Toyota. Came with 3 studs two bolts and flannel lock nuts. Don't forget to buy at least two regular nuts to install studs with. I forgot and now heading out tryin to find someplace open that has some.

Hint: Buy a set of spiral bolt extactors. First time I needed my Craftsman set but glad I had them. Still takes lots of heat and good lube. I used Seafood deep creep