06 LGT - Not happy with brakes at all

[greg_mitch]

I have had this for about a month. When I picked it up at the dealer and took it for a test drive the wheel shook so violently on the test drive I almost walked out on the deal (after driving 6.5 hours!). I had only ever driven one LGT and I remembered it had terrible pedal feel but didn't vibrate, so it was obvious something was hosed up. The car has only 27k miles on it and it in 100% stock configuration as far as I can tell.

 

The dealer eventually agreed to turn both sets and I proceeded to drive it home. The breaks still vibrate but not nearly as bad. When cold, the brakes have a constant grinding noise and noticeable squeak under light pressure.

 

The pedal travel is so far and is ridiculous based on previous daily drivers I have had (Beretta, Corolla, Monte Carlo, Impala).

 

I have spent a decent amount of time reading threads and it seems like people replace fluid and lines to help pedal feel. But then I read that the lines don't really have that great of an affect, so I will probably just start with fluid (ATE Super Blue). How much fluid do I need for a complete flush?

 

I want to replace the rotors (mostly for piece of mind) as well as pads. I was thinking the Centric OE and Hawk HPS kit from CVR Motorsports. I have never dealt with this company...can anyone vouch for them?

 

Here is the kit: http://www.cvrmotorsports.com/store/index.php?target=products&product_id=4934

 

I used Power Slots on my Monte and liked them...but it seems if they are just using OE blanks then just getting OE rotors would save me some cash and get same performance. Same goes for the DBA Street Series, right?

 

I am hoping I can get this swap done in a Saturday with a friend. I have only done one other brake swap before but it wasn't too difficult.

 

Do I seem like I am on the right track? Thanks!

[MauiJim]

The constant grinding is likely the passenger side, inside rear brake pad- I've been through two sets of pads, and this is always the first one to get to the wear indicator/noise maker. Fronts had a lot of material left, but the rears (especially that inside rear on the passenger's side) were done. Stockers were done at 47K miles, but it depends on how much stop-and-go driving was done... I could see yours being done at 27K if the previous owner was hard on brakes, or doing only city driving.

 

I just did Centric blanks and Posiquiet pads (a mild, OE-like pad made by the Stoptech/Centric family) on the LGT wagon- perfect replacement. Pedal travel is back to acceptable ranges, good bite, and the rotors look great even after bedding them in and getting them up to temp. 100% improvement over the OE rotors and EBC Redstuff on there before (I wouldn't buy them again, and didn't, obviously). No need to go DBA- general consensus is that OEM or OEM-like (such as the Centric Premium) are great for a daily driver (and lots of track guys run them too).

 

CVR Motorsports is legit, I bought struts from them for my old Impreza all the way back in '05; they have a lot of positive feedback on Nasioc, and no negative in the last 12 months (with tons of volume):

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/itrader.php?u=82136

 

Grab some stainless lines if you're doing a full flush anyways- it's a small investment for a nice bit of firmness in the pedal. Good luck!

[KNS Brakes]

We have the same package available.

 

The rotors aren't likely warped - just over braked w/ the stock pads which leave an uneven transfer layer and the pulsing you feel.

 

More heat tolerant pads like the HPS you mentioned - or Stoptech pads should help.

 

The rotors were turned so you did lose a bit of brake mass but they may still be serviceable.

 

-Ken

[darkside]

Welcome to our pain. Another dissatsfied person with thier factory brakes. Well get some cheap centric rotors and stoptech pads. Rockauto.com has a killer deal on these rotors. Stoptech pads are great. Don't get hawk hps pads, so overrated about 1% better. When u put new pads/rotors go to stoptech.com and follow bead in process for a good transfer layer.

 

I had same problem with mine did upgraded, rotors, lines, pads, made no difference to me. The pedal travel sucks arse on these cars. None of this will help, I've tried 3 set of rotors, hps pads are shit, hp+ great bite, but dust like crazy, rebleeded system 3 times. Had Subaru cut rotors, stii sucks. Subaru says it's normal. Well when I make a panic stop, it's more like ur life flashing in front of you stop. The true cure is a BBK. If u got the money and just want a great pedal feel jump on the wildwood kit(from magnetic). They will clear the factory rims. Have shorter piston making brake pedal feel responsive. Other options are brembo sti brakes used on eBay6-700. Or if ur ballin ap racing or stoptech bbk.

 

Hate to give ya bad news, but this has been my biggest complaint on this cars. We all should make a world appointment all show up at Subaru dealers with same complaints. And get a recall going this shit is not safe subaru. Maybe Toyata makes are weak brakes.

 

If u just bought car fight with dealer for new rotors, and ask for a credit on those factory pads. Those factory pads leave deposits on rotors giving u the shakes. Once again sorry for long post just venting on my Disgust w Subaru. Ive spent 2500 bucks to make brakes feel like normal factory brakes, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

[LegacyMUN2k6]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Legacy-GT-2005-2006-2007-2008-OEM-Brake-Rotors-Pads-F_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcfa86bfQQitemZ270532249279QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

The same vendor is also selling the rear set for $89.99 with free shipping. Hawk pads are greatly overrated on this forum. If you really want a great pad anything from project mu or endless would surpass a similar hawk offering.

[greg_mitch]

So...how much fluid is required?

 

I am thinking of doing one step at a time.

 

Flush with fresh first. I saw the Motive brake bleed kit...is that the consensus way to do this job? Any handy tips or guides for a complete novice with fresh knuckles?

[black318i]

I got a set of Centric OE and Hawk HPS kit from CVR Motorsports a couple weeks ago. Shipping was fairly fast, but communication was just OK. The Rotors seem to be nice quality and the pads seem pretty good. It takes less pedal effort for normal stops, but hard braking seems to be about the same. As for fade, I haven't experienced it with this or the OEM setup, but I don't track my car.

[Breeze91]

Start with the nipple furthest from the master cyl and work to the closest. Use a clear tube over the nipple to some sort of bottle. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level between pumps. Keep pumping till the fluid changes colour. Once you have done all of them just crack the furthest cylinder a second time just to be sure. Shouldn't take long. The rears are an 8mm fronts are 10 mm. Leave the ring spanner on the nipple while the tube is on so you can tighten up before pulling off the tube.

[LosAngelesLGT]

I like my HPS pads. Great feedback. I would not say that I stop in a shorter distance but I definately have better brake feel and driver confidence.

[specialB]

I'm trying to find the best combo for doing a rotor and pad setup..the price for the Brembo kit is just absolutely rediculous. So you guys are saying the stock rotors are fine the pads just blow??

 

I was at the track 2 weeks ago and even though they dont have a ton of life left they were shaking uncontrollably and fading soo bad coming down from my quarter mile runs. Is this ebay deal really better than the factory setup? even in the long run? I've had bad luck with ebay brand stuff before.

[N.sane]

Xenonk probably tracks his car the most out of all of us, he said stock rotors are fine. Better pads and fluid alone would probably make a significant difference. Bleed with some ATE Super Blue or Motul RBF600. If you track your car, you might want to have a dedicated pad for street & track. There isn't really an "all-in-one" pad. You might wanna PM Xenonk for pad suggestions.

 

In terms of rotors, I've heard nothing but good things about Centric rotors. They're affordable and good quality. I use DBA 4000-series slotted rotors myself, but it's probably overkill for the street...

 

I would NOT suggest eBay brand stuff, ESPECIALLY for brakes. Do you really want your life to depend on an eBay product?

[darkside]

Centric blanks aka stoptech, hawk hp+ or stoptech street pads, motul 600 or ate blue fluid , goodridge lines, cusco or perrin master cylinder reinforment bracket, good combo for the money. stay away from ebay rotors. Look into used sti brembos on ebay about 600 is fair for fronts. I Picked up front / rear brembos myself for 1000 on ebay wit rotors. In my personal opinion stay away from hawk hps leave just as much deposits as factory pads if tracking. then come the shakes. And remember warped rotor are blashemy on these forums, because rotors on earth dont warp. all rotor are made of adamantium. except cheap ebay rotors, stay away from those ebay rotors they made break the laws of physics and wind up warping.

[specialB]

whats the comparison with replacing a factory rotor as compared to replacing it with a set of DBA 4000's? Does the slotted rotor kill the pad faster?/ is there a significant benefit of using the slotted rotor for a car thats driven spiritedly and sees the track on rare occaisions..will i really be disappointed in not spending the extra 50 bucks a rotor for the DBA slotted style over a centric plain disc?

[N.sane]

DBA 4000 supposedly has better cooling with the vane design. I've read that slotted rotors are said to help with pad deposit problems and better in the wet/rain. Of course, that's debatable.

 

There's a blank version of the DBA 4000 if you dont want slots. Whatever you do, just dont get drilled, no performance benefit at all.

[LosAngelesLGT]

I've heard terrible things about LGT brakes

:wink: rao

 

I love my DBA 4000 SLOTTED rotors. Screw blank. If you are getting blanks doing waste your money on 4000. Get some stoptech blanks. They are plenty good for what you want. Pads make much, much more of a difference in braking than rotors anyway in daily driving situations.

[N.sane]

I love mine as well.

 

I bought my LGT calipers and HPS pads used, but the rotors brand new. Zero issues so far. No shuddering/shaking, no pad deposit issues, perform just as good in dry or wet.

[BAC5.2]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Legacy-GT-2005-2006-2007-2008-OEM-Brake-Rotors-Pads-F_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcfa86bfQQitemZ270532249279QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

The same vendor is also selling the rear set for $89.99 with free shipping. Hawk pads are greatly overrated on this forum. If you really want a great pad anything from project mu or endless would surpass a similar hawk offering.

 

You are on crack.

 

I've seen Project Mu pads catch fire under what I would consider, "spirited driving". Not OK.

 

Hawk's are tried and true, and their reputation speaks for itself.

[AZP Installs]

I've been road racing Subarus for 10 years.

I've been instructing on track for 10 years.

I've probably done about 300+ track days.

I've put on over 500,000 street miles on subarus.

I've installed 100s of sets of brakes on subarus.

 

So that's where I'm coming from take my advice or don't...

 

Level I- Centric blanks with Hawk HPS pads. This is a base enthusiasts OE replacement setup. Coupled with a good brake flush (which should be done every 2 years anyway). The HPS pads provide low dust, low noise and slightly upgraded heat resistance over stock. Good for Auto-x, Daily Driving and HPDE 1 level tracking.

 

Level II- Centric blanks with Hawk HP+ or DTC30 pads. This is what I would suggest for a very aggressive daily driven car with track use (HPDE 2 and above). I've raced cars with this setup, or with Hawk Blue Pads, and the rotors work real well and the HP+ and DTC30 will be ok on the street. I wouldn't use the DTC30s in the winter but 50 degrees ambient and up they are fine for the street. I've also used Racing Brake rotors, their 1 piece rotors are ok, but nothing special. DBA 4000s, like the RB rotors are ok, but the cost of the DBA 4000s is significantly higher than the Centrics, and only last about 10% longer, so I don't see the reason to use them. As far as capabilities, they are no different, your pads with higher heat resistance will effect your braking abilities more than the rotors.

 

I can't stress enough the flushing of the system, that will give you your best pedal feel. Upgrading to fixed monoblock calipers(4-pot) will also give you a better pedal feel as well as SS lines. They all help to give you a better pedal feel.

 

Hope this helps.

 

-mike