dr_sharp Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 From what I've read, I'll need this 3-in. to 2.5-in. adapter in order to install my DP: http://www.fredbeansparts.com/servlet/the-2651/3-Inch-Downpipe-to/Detail Has anyone just cut and welded a 3-in. tube from the CBE to the DP in order to eliminate this 2.5-in bottleneck? Are there any fitment concerns with doing this? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Why would you weld the DP to the CBE??? Are you trying to make it so no one else will ever want your DP? What if you go back to stock to sell the car? Can't sell a hacked DP. What if you don't like the sound with the CBE? What if you want a 3" CBE? If you are getting an ERZ Dp (I think you are), it will meet up with the catback in a very OEM manner. If you bury the catback/oem donut all the way in to the flange, tight bolts, into the dp it shouldnt leak, or will VERY little. If it leaks, stick a fresh donut on. Otherwise, suck it up and just get a adapter or better yet... Have the shop weld up an adapter for you instead of hacking your dp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Well the magnaflow CBE is 3-in but it narrows to 2.5-in at that connection... I just have a hard time dealing with that... lol. If I did welding, I guess I would weld a 3-in. connecter onto the magnaflow after cutting off the 2.5 in connector. Doesn't it bother anyone else that you have two pieces that are each 3-in. diamter that are being reduced to 2.5-in. for a connection? I can't stand it! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Well the magnaflow CBE is 3-in but it narrows to 2.5-in at that connection... I just have a hard time dealing with that... lol. If I did welding, I guess I would weld a 3-in. connecter onto the magnaflow after cutting off the 2.5 in connector. Doesn't it bother anyone else that you have two pieces that are each 3-in. diamter that are being reduced to 2.5-in. for a connection? I can't stand it! I would absolutely cut the cbe and make it 3" over shrinking down your turboback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Some members have had the CBE cut and a 3" pipe and flange added. Easier to mod the mid pipe. Any muffler shop can do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkness of Death Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 that's what i did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Great, its settled then. Thanks for the input. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy_GT_Pilot Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Is your midpipe 3", or do you still have the stocker? If you have the stocker, I would just get the adapter (I use an adapter with a taper to it - just not the one in your link). If you have a 3" CBE, then keep it 3" all the way through and remove any bottleneck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Is your midpipe 3", or do you still have the stocker? If you have the stocker, I would just get the adapter (I use an adapter with a taper to it - just not the one in your link). If you have a 3" CBE, then keep it 3" all the way through and remove any bottleneck. ^did not read the thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 So I cut the end flange off of the stock mid-pipe since I had no plans for the old exhaust system... this flange already tapers from 2.5 to 3-in. for the stock DP (3in) to midpipe (2.5in) connection. I stopped by autozone and picked up a 3-in diameter 18-in. length of steel exhaust tubing as well. I'm going to let the guys at awdtuning in Dallas give it a shot since torching / welding isn't in my book of tricks. I'm already going to be up there for a St Pattys party, I figured I'd get this fixed up and get a custom tune while I'm at it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Kind of a newb question, but what's the point of the spring bolts? Is it supposed to allow for some movement of the dp/mid pipe junction? I snapped the bolt off from torquing too tight, wondering if it's ok to just 2 regular bolts/nuts to replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Spring bolts apply tension. Stock torque is 13f/lbs on the spring bolts. Too much torque damages the donut gasket and bends the thin OEM flanges. Spring bolts are supposed to alleviate this. Normal bolts are fine. I have used washers to take up the space betweeen flanges to stop the bend while torquing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Ah ic. I was getting some leaky hiss noise from that area so I thought I'd tighten it down, but it popped off. I'll try regular bolts this weekend, thx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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