Disable ABS for rallyx.

[ece_tim]

Hey did you try running lower pressures in your tires? Or maybe some good mud tires?

[dmanaenk]

post #17

[robinlsb]

Can't agree with you more. I am a track instructor and race director. If I had a penny for every time someone blamed their equipment for why they weren't as fast as my slow crappy car, I'd be a millionaire by now!

 

Tire pressure was off

Didn't have my JDM Blinker fluid

sun was in my eyes

tune isn't correct

tires are old

brakes are old

fuel is only 92 octane instead of 93

ABS caused me to be slower

 

It makes me sick as a racer to hear the whining and bitching. I go out in just about any car and as a good driver I adapt to the condition, to the car, etc. THAT is what makes a good driver, not the equipment.

 

-mike

 

But then, seat time time and coaching would be worthless:lol: All I need is a thousand horesepower and 16 gee tires.

[LittleBlueGT]

I kinda wish most of you guys would stay on topic.

 

I also wish to have an answer to the OPs questions. I could care less if he knows how to drive, or what the differences in push is between different platforms.

 

I think most of you guys know better.

[ece_tim]

OP brought it on himself by being a dick.

[LittleBlueGT]

So because someone is a dick means you have to completely disrespect the first post, and the requests made there-in?

 

He spelled out right from the beginning what he wanted to know, and what he didn't want to know. Which is understandable if you search around for similar threads.

 

[ece_tim]

I started haggling the haggler. He was an outright prick to people who were posting up legitimately discussing the thread. Just because they didn't conform to his guidelines of discussion gives no just cause for being an ass.

[AZP Installs]

The OP only wants answers, unfortunately in the public forum, you both need answers and more questions as well as opposing views.

 

This isn't a Q&A forum, it's an open discussion. Lots and lots of people gave advice that he simply dismissed, or told them they were wrong. So he gets what he gets...

 

-mike

[dmanaenk]

Lots and lots of people gave advice that he simply dismissed, or told them they were wrong.

If you want to say something valuable - tell me where I'm wrong in my understanding of how ABS/EBD works and how disabling it affects braking (especially in rallyx). Before you do though, read what I wrote carefully, so that you don't fall into reading comprehension issues like robinlsb did.

[AZP Installs]

hee hee. Well I got 1400 on my SAT's out of 1600 so I think my reading comprehension is pretty good

 

As for your issues, as was stated, you probably are asking the car to do something that it can't. Why not just take out the whole ABS/EBD setup and put in a manually controlled proportioning valve and then it won't be an issue. Generally though most drivers I know are not quite at the level where the machine itself is holding them back, obviously you feel you are such a good driver that the ABS/EBD is the only thing holding you back from the next level....

[dmanaenk]

I like rallyx. I also like to do it with my DD car. I'm sure putting manually-controlled prop valve will bump me into the class I don't want to be in (and pls don't tell me class does not matter, just the driver does), and keeping ABS/EBD for normal driving is something I want.

 

As for your issues, as was stated, you probably are asking the car to do something that it can't.

Hm, you've read the thread, right? I did take out ABS and kept the EBD.

[AZP Installs]

Great then we can close this thread as you have solved your problem.

 

From my racing experience, if you disabled the ABS and messed with the EBD computer, you are likely not in a stock class anymore either, similar to putting in a proportioning valve.

 

So you are basically saying you aren't truely serious about racing. You want your cake and eat it too. You want your street car to perform like a racecar when it clearly isn't.

 

Glad you figure your problem out, now let's lock down this thread.

 

Haaaaaa.

 

-mike

[dmanaenk]

From my racing experience, if you disabled the ABS and messed with the EBD computer, you are likely not in a stock class anymore either, similar to putting in a proportioning valve.

SCCA Rallyx rules come-up easy if you google. Adding 'from my racing experience' in front of a wrong statement does not make it true. I'm wondering if you gonna say that rallyx is not racing now.

 

As for closing - I did not re-new the off-topic here - some douche did. And I plan to update the thread when I try something that I hope would yield an 'on the fly' ABS on/off switch.

[LittleBlueGT]

I for one would love to have some way of disabling ABS w/o affecting BFD.

 

I am not the greatest driver, although I generally am the fastest around our local track (full of not the greatest).

 

I have just found that when running in the rain the ABS can be a royal PITA. Even a local racer with a ton more experience that I have (he has competed for years in wheel to wheel) said I could benefit a lot from no ABS during the rain.

 

The last time I was out it rained a lot, and I found the braking very unpredictable, but on the one big braking zone it seemed that if ABS even started you just completely screwed up the whole corner.

 

I just want more discussion, and possible answers, and less immaturity (that many who posted in this thread are guilty of).

[AZP Installs]

The best bet is to get better rain tires. If you are going into the ABS in the rain, then you need to get a rain-tire setup....

 

With that said, you guys can screw around all you want with disabling the ABS, etc.... Have fun.

 

-mike

[LittleBlueGT]

The best bet is to get better rain tires. If you are going into the ABS in the rain, then you need to get a rain-tire setup....

 

With that said, you guys can screw around all you want with disabling the ABS, etc.... Have fun.

 

-mike

 

Pretty new Z1 starspecs. I was very surprised at their grip in the rain. But on the one big braking section it was hit or miss. As soon as ABS kicked in you were screwed, you would lose about 1 sec of braking, and at 120 mph that meant you covered too much ground to then hit the corner properly.

 

You guys can talk to me all you want about better tires, better braking etc.... but it was legitimately very hard to threshold brake there. I could do it anywhere else on the course. Even the guys with trailered cars mentioned it was difficult. The pavement is very coarse, and it is hard to tell where the traction is. Complicating things, is this long straight is part of a drag strip, so doesn't have the traditional wet-line and dry-line that a normal road-course would have.

 

At BIR I was on worse tires in the rain, and I had no problems braking at 145 mph. It is just our local (and only close by track) that is a PITA.

[robinlsb]

I for one would love to have some way of disabling ABS w/o affecting BFD.

 

I am not the greatest driver, although I generally am the fastest around our local track (full of not the greatest).

 

I have just found that when running in the rain the ABS can be a royal PITA. Even a local racer with a ton more experience that I have (he has competed for years in wheel to wheel) said I could benefit a lot from no ABS during the rain.

 

The last time I was out it rained a lot, and I found the braking very unpredictable, but on the one big braking zone it seemed that if ABS even started you just completely screwed up the whole corner.

 

I just want more discussion, and possible answers, and less immaturity (that many who posted in this thread are guilty of).

 

Lets be clear here. I am no fan of ABS. And God knows I have been looking for years for how to disable ABS and still have proportioned braking in an 05.

 

It ain't gonna happen unless you tear out the whole braking system. So, yeah, ABS or EBD is a pain in low changing friction situations. In an open wheel car, you can see which tire(s) smoke first and either adjust proportioning ,or style, or the brakes accordingly.

 

The Subie has crap for brakes. deal with it or get a Caterham.

[dmanaenk]

And God knows I have been looking for years for how to disable ABS and still have proportioned braking in an 05.

So be a good guinea pig and try this. This is an equivalent of what works for me.

[robinlsb]

So be a good guinea pig and try this. This is an equivalent of what works for me.

 

Not me! You want to change a road car into a race car, fine. I learned long ago that leads to nothing but frustration.

 

You wanna race, build the car and trailer it to competition. That could be a car, a kart , or what have you. You want a great road car, fine. But no matter what you do, a road car is a road car, a race car is a race car and never the twain will meet.

 

[dmanaenk]

Ah, ok, for years you only wanted to know how, but not actually do it. Makes sense.

[LittleBlueGT]

I already have that in my list of things to try, next time I am doing some wiring under the dash.

 

Maybe in the fall when I have more time.

[ClimberDHexMods]

What is more important than being right?

 

Nothing.

 

OP I'm excited to try this . As intelligent as Subarus stock programming is on all our systems (ECU, TCU, climate control), I definitely see the value.

[robinlsb]

So be a good guinea pig and try this. This is an equivalent of what works for me.

 

When somebody uses an ABS brake pressure kit, to measure the before and after PSI to the front and rear calipers, I'll consider it.

 

Until then I prefer not to work in the dark. And what "feels" right for you is fine with me.

[ClimberDHexMods]

When somebody uses an ABS brake pressure kit, to measure the before and after PSI to the front and rear calipers, I'll consider it.

 

Until then I prefer not to work in the dark. And what "feels" right for you is fine with me.

 

You can setup that kit on your race car and tell us how it goes. Prove the OP wrong (or right, or something inbetween). That way you might increase your control in slippery race conditions without selling your soul to the trial & error devil. Would put your multi-year quest to conclusion.

[robinlsb]

You can setup that kit on your race car and tell us how it goes. Prove the OP wrong (or right, or something inbetween). That way you might increase your control in slippery race conditions without selling your soul to the trial & error devil. Would put your multi-year quest to conclusion.

 

My race car is a Kart. My tow car is my LGT wagon, which will probably out handle most of any LGTs out there. And since I don't track the LGT, I don't need big brakes.

 

As for the Kart, it has "four wheel" disks ( solid rear axle) and since the only time you need brakes, is at the finish line, I don't worry about proportioning:lol:

 

What I DO know, it that , from a race car stand point, proportioning is important. And I would never trust a butt dyno. The proportion should be biased to the front by 60-70% and sometimes more. If it is not that, then you are losing time per lap.

 

There is only so many pounds you can put on the front tires before they deform, in which case you lose traction. If you unload the rear enough . their traction is even less, hence, tail out. What you end up with is less traction at the front, less traction at the rear, in a great drift, ,not the fastest entrance or exit from a corner.

 

Now since you are in a counter steer mode, to prevent the rear from going too far out, and your are in an AWD car, the instant that you apply power you have just unloaded the front (getting more traction or getting push, depending on just how much you cranked the wheel ), loaded the rear (getting more traction) and now where are you.?

 

One would hope that your are pointed at the apex. If you are not, you will miss it every time.