bettner12 Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Hi guys i have an 05 LGT 5MT 109,000mi completely stock other than a perrin crank pulley, i was driving it tonight and was getting on it pretty good, but not WOT. check engine light came on and ECU is in limp mode with DTC p2109. RPMs will not go about 2000 I have very limited tools with me (code scanner, and socket set) and don't really have a place to work on it other than the apartment parking lot. Does anyone have any clue as to what could get my car running again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 P2109 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Minimum Stop Performance Don't really know exactly what would cause that one, but would hazard guess that those sockets aren't going to help much with a dbw issue ...perhaps try a hard reset to clear it, see if it goes away/comes back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted January 17, 2010 Author Share Posted January 17, 2010 How does one perform a "hard reset" ? I'm familiar with the battery dissconect depress brake pedal, is this the same thing or is there more to it? I have all day tomorrow to mess around with it, and I don't figure anything out, I'll have it towed to the stealership I pulled up the factory service manual, but like you said a socket set isn't going to do much with a drive by wire problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 ^ you've got it right -- just when you go to key back on after the reset, leave it in acc for several seconds before you fire it up (you'll just end up cranking for that long if you don't). good luck - if you can't shake the code, post back, maybe one of the more knowledgable gents can help by then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted January 17, 2010 Author Share Posted January 17, 2010 alright just went out and tried it again, I checked the connection a the pedal position sensor and there were no cracked,dirty, bent wires, inside of the connectors are gleaming, pedal moves through its motion with no hesitation or binding. I hooked it back up and noticed what seems to be a test connector a few inches back on the run of wires, maybe i'll have to buy a multi meter and see if i can decipher the I/O of the sensor... did the "hard reset" just like you said, neg terminal first then positive, pressed brake pedal, horn, pretty much anything that is electrical, waited a while, hooked it back up, neg term first then positive, moved key to ACC position for 5 seconds, started and no change. very rough idle and un-responsive to throttle inputs until almost WOT then it will pick up to 2000rpm my guess at this point would be the sending unit from the pedal based on the un-responsiveness of rpm's from small input changes in the throttle. Any one in the denver area have a multi-meter and would be willing to lend a hand for a few hours tomorrow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 if nothing looks particularly out of whack at the pps, a similarly focused inspection at the throttle body harness can't hurt. also before digging in to any wiring, i'd give some attention to a few items (fuses/relays) in the main box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted January 18, 2010 Author Share Posted January 18, 2010 i couldn't find anything, so i had it towed into the flatirons subaru dealership in boulder, COhopefully i'll know what it was and be back on the road later today. i'll post up what it was when i find out. maybe it will help someone else out along the line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artmor79 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 i couldn't find anything, so i had it towed into the flatirons subaru dealership in boulder, CO hopefully i'll know what it was and be back on the road later today. i'll post up what it was when i find out. maybe it will help someone else out along the line sorry for bring this post back from the dead but by chance was this issue resolved? and do you remember what the dealership did to fix it? i have this same issue now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 sorry for bring this post back from the dead but by chance was this issue resolved? and do you remember what the dealership did to fix it? i have this same issue now. it was the coupler from the intercooler to the throttle body coming part and a piece of the rubber got lodged in between the throttle plate and the throttle body causing a mismatch in the accelerator position compared to the throttle blade position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Another reason we say to remove those rubber ends on that hose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Another reason we say to remove those rubber ends on that hose. oh, i fixed that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 I guess so! wow. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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