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front side markers come on when brake pedal is pressed?!?!?!?


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Ok guys, I have a 97 lgt with 161,xxx miles. It has factory subaru keyless entry and is completely bone stock, even has the factory radio.

 

Ok, issue 1. When you hit the brake pedal (when car is on or off) the front side markers, gauges, and radio lights all light up with the brake lights.

 

Issue 2. When the parking lights, or headlights are on, the brake lights and third brake light are always on, so when you hit the brake, you cant tell from behind the car.

 

I checked the bulbs and when the parking or head lights are on the tail light bulbs have both filliments lit up, regardless of brake pedal being applied or not. It should have only one lit, and when the brake is applied, the second one lights up.

 

I also pulled and checked literally every fuse under the dash, and under the hood and they are all good.

 

I noticed when I lock or un-lock the car with the keyless entry, the front side markers, gauges, radio lights and brake lights and third brake light all light up to aknoledge the car has beel locked or un locked. These are the same things that come on when you hit the brake pedal.

 

I looked under the dash at the control box for the keyless entry and it says "Subaru" so it is factory parts, but it has wire taps like you buy at autozone or wal mart being used to tap into the wires in the factory harness to feed the keyless entry control box for the power and ground and all the lights and such. Also all the wires are hanging and shoved and strown everywhere and are not very neat at all, it does not look factory installed to me....

 

Is that how all the lgt's with keyless are, or did someone get factory parts and install them aftermarket? If someone installed it aftermarket, I believe they did something wrong and tapped the wrong wire, or crossed wires somewhere, which is why im having the light issues im having.

 

Anyone have any idea if this is a common problem for the second gen lgt?

 

Thanks guys in advance,

 

-Ben

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I had the same exact problem. check all of the bulbs, any bulbs you've replaced, or any of the markers/brakes/turn signals. I went through everything, EVERYTHING electric on the car with the exact same obnoxious symptoms. turns out a brake light bulb that was replaced before I got the car was not the right bulb (had one filament instead of two), so it must've been completing some sort of circuit. I don't know the electrical mechanics behind it (wish I did though!!), but it was a stupid wrong bulb. Spent $3 for a set of new ones, and everything solved. Cheers, hope this helps.
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Here's the "electrical mechanics" (:lol:) behind it...

 

The correct dual-filament bulb works as the tail light and brake light and is designed to exist in the two separate circuits when installed. If you replace it with a single filament bulb, it essentially shorts the brake light and tail light circuits to each other. Then, since the tail lights and side markers are on the same circuit and you effectively combined that circuit with the brake light circuit, when you hit the brake pedal the side markers come on.

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Oh while I have everyones attention, I have a question. On the stock intake system, there is a big black box that sits directly under the hood scoop. There are 2 hoses comming from the bottom of that box and they go to diff parts of the engine. There is also one on the pipe between the box and air filter box.

My question(s) is/are what do they go 2, and when installing a aftermarket cold air intake, can any of them be deleted and blocked off, or must they all be retained?

 

Thanks,

 

-Ben

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ah dude you're reading my mind. i also just did intake work (2.2L, but should be essentially the same with a 2.5), and those hoses are part of the gas recirculation system. those two hoses go to the heads and to the base of the crankcase, and are vacuum lines that take the gases from there to the pcv valve (should be a small black valve on the top of the manifold), and that pcv regulates the gases that flow back into the intake past the MAF. they then get reused in the engine combustion for efficiency purposes. if you're lucky enough to find an aftermarket intake, look for those inlets on the piping. if not, you could put some breather filters on the outlets from the heads and the crankcase; it's not important to have the hoses attached, but it's definitely got something to do with emissions, so make sure those gases are filtered or burned somehow. as i found out the hard way and struggled with for 6 months (long, long painful and embarassing story), if you block off any point in the vacuum circuit, the gases will build up pressure and blow by the cylinder heads, making an obnoxious squeak once the car has warmed up, SO DON'T PLUG ANY OF THE HOLES. you could also set up a custom intake; i can walk you through a set up that lets you take the colder air from behind the fog light housing, and it lets you remove the big box by the hood scoop (called a torque box), and the air box forward from the MAF. let me know what you have in mind
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I was just thinking a generic aluminum intake pipe with a 45 degree bend and then straight, like would be on a sohc honda. Then using a 90 degree coupler on the throttle body to connect it. With the 90 degree coupler and 45 degree bend in the pipe, it should put the. Piping close to stock position. Then make an adapter for the maf that allows you to attach a cone filter, and put breather filters on all those hoses. But I don't want it to throw a cel or anything, so if I gotta I can drill holes in the bottom of the aluminum pipe and use rubber grommets and use all the egr hoses and such.

 

Will putting breather filters on them all cause a cel? I know on obd-I cars it does not, but I have never had an obd-II equipt car till now. Lol

 

Thanks,

 

-Ben

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yeah anything as close to stock as you can make it would be the best way to go, just so u don't have any fitting mistakes. what I did is take a straight pipe fitting from a 2.2 intake (had a 2.5 intake set up on my EJ22, which was stupid to begin with. the people who replaced the engine were morons doing the job) so flow would be better, then from the MAF forward I did some pipefitting with pvc. i got the idea from an sl-i.net forum: http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=11765, but i went a step further and took out the airbox, and added a cone filter to the space behind the fog light. looks awesome, sounds awesome, better throttle response, fuel economy; great little mod. i'd imagine the way he did it would work great as well, but the idea is to get as much cold air into the engine in the least restrictive way. removing the stupid snorkus is a great start haha...if you want any pics of mine let me know my camera's with my brother today tho
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Will putting breather filters on them all cause a cel? I know on obd-I cars it does not, but I have never had an obd-II equipt car till now. Lol

 

Thanks,

 

-Ben

 

It's possible, but I think that the only thing really monitored is the evaporation system for the tank, so make sure that you keep that intact.

 

There are good and bad sides with OBD-II. And a reflash may be a simple way out of "stupid" CEL:s.

 

It may also be a good idea to look at the OBD-II codes that can be thrown for your car to figure out if there is a code that can be thrown if you mess with the breather hoses.

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Hey, that sounds like a good idea man. Illcheck the codes out. And what type of reflash are you talking about, and where would I go to get or buy it?

 

I'm not entirely sure if there is a complete reflash, but look for a software called "romraider", that may help you. There are something about it in the tuning area.

 

There is also a module called "AccessPort" that may help - if it's available for your model.

 

I suggest that you go to the tuning area and start a new thread there with all your questions.

 

Area link: http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=84

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