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propeeler shaft & inhibitor switch


subyfiend

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I was just wanting some feedback on whether or not I should invest the $ to fix this on my subaru. My car recently brokedown, it made some very loud, shuddering, clanking noises & just crawled to a stop where it locked itself in park/won't turn on engine.

 

Anyway my cars at the dealer (very wise choice compared to where I did have it, who were trying to bs me around) Anyway they said my propeller shaft cracked & that was what the loud noise was, what it did was also cause it to lock so they said the inhibitor switch needs to be replaced as well. This jobs gonna run me around $700 this is for a salvage propeller shaft 7 the inhibitor.

 

Please take in consideration besides this I am not aware of any more major issues, they mentioned they saw a leaking trans but thats about it without it starting to drive it. Also it has 227,700 miles on my 97 legacy. Its either fix it or say i am done, this car has been mostly good to me & I would expect being that old that the driveshaft would wear out/break. I apologize I am not familiar with the propeller shaft at all, nor the other piece they are gonna fix I just need some honest feedback.

 

Ps I know in the past I have mentioned in here about that it possibly may have a transfer case issue or solenoid issue but I haven't had anything develop from that....but for the people on here who did help me with the u joint issues obviously y'all were right cuz this is what happens when you let shit go.

 

Thanks for all the help!!!!

 

Thanks!!!!

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I'm assuming you're talking about the actual drive shaft that runs the length of the car from the output shaft on the transmission to the rear differential.

 

You know what the kicker here is...

U-Joints are $10-15 a piece, and you would have needed two to fix the problem earlier. So a problem that would have been $20 or $30 and taken less than an hour to repair is now going to cost you $700+.

 

By the way, the dealership is ripping you off. Driveshafts are simple to install, especially the rear drive shaft to the differential. At most it's $150 at a junkyard. You could probably talk them down to a hundred or less. So you could get the switch and the shaft for $150 and put them both in in about an hour with the simplest of tools. If you get a junkyard shaft you should replace the U-Joints with new ones, seeing as how they are so cheap and you don't know what kind of condition the junkyard U-Joints are in.

 

And if the transmission is leaking it's probably an output seal. Most likely it's the rear seal. You just need to remove the output yolk and get the seal out to replace it. Seals are under $20 a piece. To replace the three for the output shafts it would be $60 for the parts. You could get away with just doing one no problem if you wanted to fix it. I can get exact prices for you. Is the car a manual or automatic transmission?

 

And by inhibitor switch are you talking about the neutral safety switch?

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