gathermewool Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 I noticed last week that about a half inch of wire starting at the alternator connector is completely exposed and corroded. I'm not sure what happened to the insulation - maybe it simply degraded and pulled back from the connector, I don't know - but I want to fix this asap! Question: Any idea how to fix this? The wire to the fuse box - or where ever it goes - is stretched pretty thin, so I don't have much room for cutting and reattaching. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 I would cut the wire back about 6 inches past where the damage has occurred and go to a junkyard and cut enough wire to replace the damage. If you're good at soldering try that along with some heat shrink tubing and a hair dryer to seal up the repair. Insert the shrink wrap over the wire, solder the two wires together so that it's a nice solid connection, slip the shrink wrap into place over the soldered repair and heat with the hair dryer to shrink the shrink wrap into place. If you're not good at soldering you can get some butt splices or other connectors at any hardware store. If you get the type of connectors where crimping is required, it's best to solder the connector where the wire is to be inserted, then heat the soldered plug while inserting the wire into it. This makes for a better, stronger connection that you shouldn't have to worry about. That's how I wired R/C connections in the past and it worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 Do you know which cars share the same alternator/connector? The insulation is gone all the way to the connector with mine. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 The 1990-1994 alternators will fit, but they are only 70 amps. I am not sure if the connection is the same though. The 1995-1999 alternators are all 85 amps. Any alternator from any EJ22 or EJ25 from 1995-1998 are the same part number, and have the same plug. So pretty much any Subaru 2.2 or 2.5 from 1995-1999 will work. I verified the part numbers and specifications through the Autozone website. All USDM Subaru vehicles from 1995-1998 use the same 85 amp alternator. In 2000 they changed to two different alternators, both 90 amps, but the automatic one is a different part number from the standard transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 The 1990-1994 alternators will fit, but they are only 70 amps. I am not sure if the connection is the same though. The 1995-1999 alternators are all 85 amps. Any alternator from any EJ22 or EJ25 from 1995-1998 are the same part number, and have the same plug. So pretty much any Subaru 2.2 or 2.5 from 1995-1999 will work. I verified the part numbers and specifications through the Autozone website. All USDM Subaru vehicles from 1995-1998 use the same 85 amp alternator. In 2000 they changed to two different alternators, both 90 amps, but the automatic one is a different part number from the standard transmission. I appreciate the help! Now that the holidays are here I'll try to tackle a few things that have been bothering me, including the alternator connector. I'll keep my eye on the legacy specific parts and part out section of nasioc for what I need. Thanks again, and Merry Christmas! I don't like posting questions unless I at least make some effort to find the answer online, but while I have you here I'll ask: I've been having a rattling fuel pump issues for the past 1-1/2 years. I pulled the pump, douched with electrical parts cleaner to remove the fuel and applied 12V for just a second - pump sounded normal. It seems that it might be the bracket vibrating slightly against the fuel tank, since I adjusted the bracket as far up as I could, which seemed to make the problem go away, at least for a bit. Didn't use locktite (not sure if that's ok in fuel, anyway), though. Anyway, recently I've had a lot of vibration while stopped at idle, especially in gear. I feel vibration at around 1800 and 2200 RPM, too; not from tires since I feel this stopped in neutral as well. Notice a decent rattle seemingly coming from inside the dash area as well. Not sure if it's related or just noticeable now because of the vibration. I recently changed both CV shafts with reman'd ones and both ball joints. any ideas??? '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 If you think it's the fuel pump run the car and put your hand on the fuel tank. If you can feel the vibrating through the fuel tank it's probably the pump again. Generally if the fuel pump is going bad it will just stop on dead spots and refuse to start spinning again. It generally won't vibrate, as there really is nothing that can become unbalanced. The only rotating piece of the motor is the armature, which is copper wire epoxy sealed anyway, and the copper commutator. It is possible that it is vibrating against the gas tank, but I'm positive the pump would not be powerful enough to shudder the car. It will just cause a rattle if anything. Also, if the vibration happens in a certain RPM range it is most likely engine related. The longitudinal engine layout of a Subaru (Or any car in generral) tends to transmit more vibration through the car than a transverse layout (As it is easier for torque to rock the car side to side than it is front to back, especially when it should hesitate). I would open the hood and hold the engine at several different RPM ranges using the throttle linkage and see if the engine vibrates more at a certain RPM than others. It could just be something simple like spark plug wires getting old and not supplying a decent enough spark to the spark plugs, causing the engine to stutter at idle and low RPM's. The rattle is probably coming from some electrical connection or a loose screw being jostled around by the engine vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 I appreciate the advice. : ) the plugs and wires are <10k old. The rattling and the vibration are two separate things. The rattling is most audible with my ear on the passenger-side fuel tank or with the cover removed for the sending unit. I haven't had time recently, but I might try loosening the bolts for the sending unit and lifting or tilting it slightly to see if the rattling goes away. As for the vibration, I've been reading online that one cause could be the CV shaft itself. The passenger-side shaft was replaced with one brand - can't recall which brand - and the driver-side with another. The vibration was noticeable directly after replacing the driver-side shaft. Also, the vibration is most noticeable when cold, with increased vibration when in gear while stopped. The vibration at temp is very slight in neutral, but still very noticeable in gear. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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