My first car. 1996. you can say "used beater"

[amp27]

ok well. first post on these forums but their all the same layout. but this looked the best for my needs.

 

just picked up a used. red, 1996 GT 2.5 and i got a few issues. ill list:

 

while turning wide, they are noises. and its not that high pitch noise, it is a click click click. last owner said they fixed it last and changed the axle? idk. but i wouldnt be to sure on what they say. claim they fixed it before for like 2-300 us dollar.

 

second problem: the car had a new engine put in. no idea what is in their.(the car it not techniclly ours yet and has no tabs) but while accel the engin cuts down then goes. and i dont pound it to the floor i just lay down my foot. it almost sound like it downshifts(its not a stick) any ideas. i am by no means smart with cars yet but i am pro with pc and can learn many thing bout car

[Platinum_Racing]

The clicking is the front right CV shaft. $2-300 is what you would pay for a shop to fix it. For $75 and about 2 hours for a newbie you can fix it yourself with only basic tools.

 

Does the engine hesitate? If so check any electrical plugs and wires coming off the engine. Any vacuum hoses that are cracked could cause this. A video would make this easier to diagnose.

 

Have fun!

[amp27]

thanks. that kinda help put a smile on my face. and yea i was hoping i could fix it. i got the basic tools. dads got his life assortment of tools. what make you think its the "right side" one. or is their not a left. and funny cause i only noticed it from the right side while turning right. what causes this? age? 13 years is good ifs it is age. my moms bro said it was something i could fix.

 

so what makes the problem the shaft and not another part. the shaft is is just one piece of the whole axle. correct. i am looking at the subaru oem part website. found the shaft for 239. it dont say left or right so it work for either? right and left.

 

and as for the engine i will have to see what i can do for a video, i wont have the car till next week

[Platinum_Racing]

Ok, a quick lesson on what the part does and how it does it...

 

The CV shaft takes the power from that the engine sends through the transmission which sends it through the wheels. The CV (Or "Constant Velocity") shaft is a piece of engineering that allows the shaft to rotate despite the position of it's two ends. This means that you can turn the front wheels left and right and the transmission will still spin the wheel. Here is an image of a CV shaft....

 

http://www.samarins.com/glossary/CV-joints3.gif

 

The main difference with the Subaru is that the engine is in front of the transmission rather than beside it, as shown in the image. This makes it easier for Subaru to make a 4WD vehicle. The CV shafts are in their usual place, however.

 

Here is the inside of a CV shaft. Note how the design allows the joint to change in position while still being powered by the wheels...

http://www.automotive-technology.co.uk/downloadable%20files/CV%20joint.jpg

The small shaft coming out of the bottom left of the shaft in the image would go to the wheel. The other side would go towards the engine.

 

Now, when a CV shaft reaches the end of it's useful lifespan, it will "Skip", thus making a clicking noise, most notable under acceleration, especially while turning.

 

The reason why it only happens while turning one direction is because the inside wheel always receives more force than the outside wheel in a turn. This is thanks to another part of vehicle engineering called the differential. When a car turns, it's inside wheels always turn slower than the outside wheels. This is because the inside wheels have to travel a lesser distance than the outside wheels to make the turn. The way the differential is made to work off the path of least resistance. That means the wheel that is easiest to spin will get the most power. However, when you apply force to the differential, it will still try to apply force to both wheels. Generally when going straight, both CV shafts receive equal force from the engine. If the right CV shaft is in good condition, the path of least resistance means that the left wheel is less resistance then the right. If the right CV shaft is bad, that means that the right CV SHAFT is the path of least resistance. That means it takes less force to make the right CV shaft skip than it does to spin the left wheel.

 

It's very complicated, and I apologize that booze has made this very hard for me to explain.

 

To make it easier to understand, look at the first image I posted. Imagine the CV shaft on the inside of the turn is damaged. It would be easier to make that shaft skip than send the power to the other wheel.

 

Now I'm going to look up the How-To I posted a while ago for someone else on how to replace the shaft. Bear with me...

 

You can find the part way cheaper at Autozone or NAPA. I got one for $73. The part will be more, but once you return your old used part to the store they refund you some money since they will send the old part back to the manufacturer to be rebuilt and resold. This part is the actual axle. On older cars and many modern trucks the axle is all one piece, connected to the differential. This is called a "Stick axle". This system is only used in solid suspension vehicles. The Subaru is independent suspension, meaning each wheel can move up and down independent to each other while a stick axle system will alter the position or angle of the opposing wheel in some form.

 

This is a one piece stick axle with replaceable internal parts...

http://truckworld.tenmagazines.com/articleImages/37883.jpg

 

This is a CV shaft. It also has replaceable parts, but it is far easier and more economically efficient to replace the unit as a whole...

http://www.japanoid.com/store/images/Sambar%20CV%20Shaft.JPG

Most Subaru vehicles use the same part number (The same part) left and right. That means the left front and the right front are the same, and the left rear and right rear are the same. Other FWD cars generally use different length shafts for each side as shown above.

 

Just for reference, this is an independent rear suspension from a hot rod parts manufacturing company. Note how the differential is in the middle just as the stick axle, but it is not a single piece, meaning that this system allows each wheel to move independent from each other.

http://image.rodandcustommagazine.com/f/9465141/0802rc_08_z+independent_rear_suspension+.jpg

[amp27]

hmm alot of this tech. exsist my traxxas stampede(rc monster truck. goes like 50-55 right now lol) and yea i under stand this drunken lesson.

 

isee now. the shaft. includes the "cup" that the all the funky turny stuff happens in. and that "cup" is worn. ???? i have cv's on my RC. aka cvd. constant velocity drives

 

and before. how did you know i was turning right. i had never told you yet.

[Platinum_Racing]

I guess I just had a good feeling it was right.

I actually misread when you said turning "Wide" as turning right. Damn beer is letting me down yet again!

 

Check out the General Chat forum and look into the RC thread. I am VERY well aware of R/C cars.... I had an R/C parts manufacturing company at one point, more info in the RC thread... We had a full line of Stampede parts back in 2005. If I still had the company I would be trying to sell you parts right now from my website...

 

When the right CV shaft is going, those giant balls will skip inside that cup causing clicking. Turning right puts added stress on the right shaft. That's why the CV shaft that's on it's way out generally makes noise when turning in that direction.

 

CV shafts on RC cars are pins inside of cups with slots cut in them to allow for suspension articulation. Same principle with full size cars, but the giant ball bearings allow for a better distribution of force within the shaft (Since there are more of them).

 

http://www.rc-area.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/Titanium-Racing-F1-StealthCVD-for-Xray-Cars.jpg

These, as you know, are MIP CVD's for an RC vehicle. Same idea, scaled down and less complicated as a full size CV shaft.

[amp27]

yup yup thats what i got. but i recent have shattered the axle part of them. too much power . basicly i think i should loosen my slipper clucth

[Platinum_Racing]

Getting a little off topic here but whatever...

 

Do you have the grey chassis Stampede or the black chassis?

If it's the grey then you have the updated Magnum 272.

If it's the black then you either have the Generation I or Generation II. The slipper clutch on the grey Stampede is the Revo style slipper while the black version is the white spur with the red pegs and dual plates. The difference with the Gen I and the Gen II are the output shafts and the differential. The Gen II has a through-pin diff that is more durable than the Gen I. The Revo style is worlds better. The only ones I have are the Generation II style black version transmissions. I used to do repair work for a hobby shop, so I know how much better the Revo style slippers are compared to the originals. I used to just lock my slipper down for on-road oval racing with my highly modified suspension geometry and on-road tire/wheel combos.

 

Loosen the slipper 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time, despite the style transmission you have.

[amp27]

i know lol

 

i got it when i was 12 and joined the traxxas forums. now i like no everything. bought it new with the xl-1s, now i run it fulling tricked. MM5700. ball bearing all round. full metal 3 point roll cage(like a rock, so tough i dont need a alum chass) i made it wider. and updated all linkage and mip cvds and a buck more little mods.

[Platinum_Racing]

I got in so much trouble on those forums because I tried to push our products. I would try to post a link and 2 seconds later their nazi-mods would delete it.

 

If you can, I would try to bring the steering servo to the same angle as the caster in the front end. It will reduce the bump steer a tiny bit and improve cornering. Dropping the servo down is another good idea, as it reduces the angle of the tie rods and further reduces bump steer and center of gravity. Either that or find a reliable way to reduce caster a couple degrees. 1-3 degrees would be good for off-road bashing, 10 degrees would be best for on-roading. With my on-road Bandit and Rustler (Which were purchased as kits before Traxxas even sold RTR's) I kept the same caster, but switched to front Rustler tires in the rear and rear Rustler tires in front, which GREATLY improved stability. I was racing on-road oval though, so keep this in mind. I also had all aluminum hop up parts with tons of other upgrades and go-fast tricks and goodies to stay competitive in the on-road scene. Mounting the battery underneath the chassis is probably the best thing you could ever do to the Stampede, since it lowers the center of gravity and is still perfectly safe since nothing would ever come into contact with it. Try it once and I PROMISE you won't regret it. Just use zip ties and if you like it look for Team Associated Battery Cups at the local hobby store. They screw onto the stock chassis and keep the battery mounted under the chassis. Best of all, they cost $5 and you can leave them there while still mounting the battery in it's normal position. Total adjustability for $5 worth of parts, how can you go wrong? With a chassis that sits sky high compared to other trucks, the Stampede suffers from mad body roll that Traxxas tried to get rid of with overly stiff springs, which is why switching to the setup listed above and Traxxas "Red" springs is the way to go.

 

As far as the aluminum chassis for the Stampede goes, my company had designed a 3D model of the Stampede frame with several enhancements that could have been manufactured out of aluminum. We had standard length models and were testing the feasibility of longer and shorter wheelbase models. The frame's featured an overall flat plate design with bent "Skirts" resembling the REVO chassis for strength and greatly improved rigidity. We also added optional support for mounting the battery under the chassis for a lower center of gravity, greatly improving stability at every speed. We were toying with the possibility of optional dual servos when the company went under. We made the 3D model in Autodesk Inventor (Like all our other concept parts), but unfortunately never got around to making it.

 

We did make other chassis though, for cars including the Tamiya Juggenaut, the Tamiya Sand Scorcher, and an aluminum version of the Team Associated original RC10 Graphite chassis with options for either a saddle pack battery or stick pack.

[amp27]

ha you use auto desk inverter too. i use it at school in a intro to engineering class. and all those ideas you had iv done. just not the servo angle stuff which makes good sense. i like my roll cage though. it adds weight and stiffens the car. and my aluminum arms halp to. i plan on getting flm shock towers eventally. and the have run the battery under back when i ran a team orion 15 turn bb on the mamba max esc. i run 2 battery and man did that thing scream. and not in a good way(well not for long) the brushes got so hot the solder cam loose. now i use a 5700kv. what kinda power house do you got in yours. i wannna go lipo in my lifetime

[Platinum_Racing]

Yeah, I've had that problem with motors coming unsoldered before. I generally try dropping a tooth or two on the pinion gear to bring the temps down. How do you like the brushless motor by the way?

 

Ahh... FLM... Our most direct competetor. Our prices were cheaper at the time but they used higher quality aluminum. They also are a bigger company with better equipment. Right before the company went under I bought a Taig 4 axis benchtop CNC milling machine for a cool $2K, but I never got to use it.

 

This idea looks like it was stolen from us. We were the first to make an aluminum bumper out of 6061-T6 that used all 4 holes to secure the bumper. We didn't have the design milled into the bumper though.

 

If I were you I would also get longer Team Associated countersunk screws and install them through the front bulkhead completely, with locknuts on the end to keep from pulling the bumpers out in a hard crash.

 

As far as motors, I have bunches and bunches. For racing at the parking lot oval track I would switch between a Monster 27T, a Green Machine 3 27T, a CO27, or a P2K2 as required by the rules. However, I ran with insane gear ratios. I would switch from 26 pinion and 78 spur to 31 pinion 82 spur depending on the day and the motor. That made the car EXTREMELY fast, but chewed up motors like nobodies business. Needless to say I had a motor heatsink to keep temps down long enough to finish the race. For bashing I would drop in a Fantom Racing 12T every once in a while. A couple times I tried a Trinity ROAR 19T motor, but I didn't have much luck with it.

[amp27]

yea. hew do you have part number for that cv shaft. i am on auto zone. they call them halfshafts there but i know it is the same. there are alot of choices. and that is with the opinion norrowed down to my car. link. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?vehicleNValue=&viewAll=&displayName=CV+Halfshaft&categoryNValue=11299999&sortType=low&isSearchByPartNumber=false&storeNo=3161&fromWhere=&fromString=search&appQuestionId=&itemId=512-0&brandNValue=0&vehicleId=2145702&navValue=11200512&filterByKeyWord=cv+shaft&ansQListString=&currentPage=1&parentId=12-0&nysQFromType=&fromType=parts&pageNumber=1&partTypeNValue=11200512

[Platinum_Racing]

Sorry for going so off-topic...

 

The Autozone part number is 60-7029. Just type that into the search bar and it should pop up on the left as CV Halfshaft. Price before core charge is $129.99, but once you return the old part to the store they give you $40 back making the total price only $89.99. It's more expensive than my '92 Legacy shafts, but it's still not too bad.

[amp27]

i dont mind. 90 bucks for a part that lasted this long is good

 

ps on auto zone it is for the rear right. does it matter

[Platinum_Racing]

If he was making a ricer then I'm glad you came along and rescued it. No Subaru should ever go through such a humiliating ordeal!

[amp27]

ha yea. i wanna kinda soup it up though. just not have a fart can. gotta keep the boxer rumble! idk if i should rise or lower it. i live out in dirt/tar land. so....idk what to do. i know subies make good rally cars. can you raise these things or do you just stiffen

[Platinum_Racing]

If you were to swap the struts out with ones from an Outback of the same body style it would raise the car, but you would also want to get Outback sway bars, maybe even aftermarket Outback swaybars to get rid of some of the body roll.

[amp27]

umm k last quesion relateing the cv's that part number you listed states it is a rear right cv? same thing right. just checking. although the same brand also make a front right one.

 

 

edit nvm i changed stores. autozone was father away then the advanced autoparts in brainerd mn. and its cheaper. and free shipping on orders over 75 bucks. link

[Platinum_Racing]

Sorry, I meant to post the link for the front shaft. My bad! That one in the link is the right one though.

[amp27]

torque Spec: 137 ft. lb..... how much is put on our shafts. i know my rc must run around 130 cause i rip thoses right off.::

[Platinum_Racing]

I'm pretty sure they're talking about the torque rating on the nut that holds the shaft to the knuckle. That's what the manufacturer recommends tightening the bolt to.

 

If you don't have a torque wrench just crank it down with good force on a breaker bar and peen the axle nut. I'm not sure if the '96 model uses a peened axle nut or a pin through the nut to keep it from backing out, but if it's a peened nut, DON'T FORGET to peen the new nut after the axle is installed.

[amp27]

pean?

[slickfast]

i learned a while ago that in america the right axle always fails first because we make tighter right turns than left turns due to how our streets are laid out. pretty cool, i thought.

 

and i'm a Team Losi guy (ducks). JRX-T and XXX-T owner here... that is until I decided to go on-road nitro. OFNA OB-4 with a Mugen MT12 for that. Glad to know there are some R/C'ers here.

[Platinum_Racing]

Peening of the axle nut means that after the nut has been tightened, you're going to want to take a small punch (Or a screwdriver) and a hammer. There is a little lip on the nut. There is also a slot on the axle itself. You must tap the lip on the nut into the slot (Or groove, whatever you want to call it) to prevent it from coming out while you drive. This process is known as "Peening a nut".

 

And I to am kind of a Losi guy. When it comes to serious racing that is. I used to run my XXX-T Matt Francis 1 with a bunch of hop ups in the Sportsman 19T class at a track in Fitchburg MA. Other than that I also have a XXX-NT, a brushless Mini-T with tons, tons of extras, and a Mini-LST with a few durability hop ups.

 

Losi makes some quality stuff....