Wiring questions for audio install

[Tinman]

Need help, not sure if I have everything set up right. I have never done a audio install. Thought I'd give it a try after reading all the success stories here in the Forums.

 

Here's what I have hooked up so far. I have installed Alpine SPS-600C Components in the front doors reusing the factory wires. In the rear doors I have installed Alpine SPS-600 2ways and an Alpine SWE-1043 10" sub in an enclosure for the back of my wagon. I have a Crunch P5000.5 5 channel amp and MTX Req-5 on a board above the space tire. The power and ground cables are already pulled through the car. I am using speaker spacers sold by Phenryiv1 which fit nicely (thanks). I have sound deaden the doors using Second Skin Deamplifier Pro and Overkill Pro.

 

Where I am a bit lost is the wiring to the amp and the MTX Req-5. I get the power and ground to the amp. I am reusing the original speaker wires, those go from the speakers in the doors back to the head unit. (correct) I am using Streetwires iCS9100 9-wire with the forward and reverse harness since the MTX Req-5 is in the back next to the amp. Where does the blue remote wire from my 9-wire hook up to the harnesses? Does it hook up to the red +12 volt accessory wires? Do I also need to connect the ground for the forward/reverse harnesses all the way in the back to the MTX Req-5? Same question for the +12 volt memory yellow and +12 volt accessory red wires. If the MTX Req-5 was upfront next to the harnesses would I connect those wires too?

 

Do I connect the speaker wires to the amp? Or are the RCA's making the connection from the MTX Req-5 to the amp? Does the MTX need to be grounded? Does the amp and MTX share the same remote in?

 

I feel like I am 85% the way done with this install. Just not 100% sure about the last part.

 

Appreciate any help I can get.

[lucas569]

blue wire goes to a wire named remote ant. u can run the ground wire to the back if you like, its a good way to prevent ground loops but you can ground the hu in the front if youd like. id run it to the rear better safe than sorry....

 

putting the req5 by the hu makes things easier, this way all u have to do run is rcas to the rear only. isnt the req5 sorta like a line output converter? if so spkr wire go to the mtx unit, rcas to amp FROM mtx unit.

 

if the mtx unit HAS a ground then yes it must be grounded, if the mtx unit needs a remote lead then yes it would use same remote turn on lead as amp.

 

hope that helps, lmk if u need any more help.

[SVXdc]

I agree on installing the re-Q5 behind the HU. You can still use the 9-wire to send the speaker outputs from your amp back to the "forward" harness (and on out to the speakers).

 

Here's a block diagram of the audio feed from the HU to the amp:

 

OEM HU -> 14-pin reverse harness (4 spkr outs) -> * -> (speaker inputs) re-Q5 (line outputs) -> RCA cables -> Amp

 

* = Street Wires 9-wire harness, if re-Q5 in trunk

Here's a diagram for the audio outs:

 

Amp (speaker outputs) -> 9-wire harness -> 14-pin forward harness (4 spkrs) -> OEM radio harness -> car's speakers

 

also

 

Amp (subwoofer output) -> speaker wire -> subwoofer

If you leave the re-Q5 in the trunk, you'll need a second 9-wire run (one for the inputs to the re-Q5, and another for the outputs from the amp to the speakers).

 

The Blue wire on HU's harness is an output strictly for the antenna booster amplifier (or a motorized antenna in older models). You can't use this antenna control line to activate the re-Q5 or speaker amp -- otherwise they would only work while you're listening to AM/FM.

 

The re-Q5 has a feature called "Smart Engage" -- it has a circuit that will sense audio signal and turn on the re-Q5 automatically.

 

The re-Q5 also has a remote turn-on input (Red wire). But since the stock HU does not have a wire for amp turn-on, you don't need to use this wire -- insulate the end.

 

The Blue wire on the re-Q5 is an output for amp turn-on (they really should have made it Blue/White, the standard color). Connect this to the turn-on input on your amp. If you move the re-Q5 to behind the HU, you can send this signal down the Blue wire on the 9-wire harness.

 

If you install the re-Q5 behind the HU, you can connect its Yellow and Black wires to those on the forward/reverse harnesses. The re-Q5 doesn't draw much power, so the HU wires will work fine.

 

If you leave the re-Q5 in the trunk, connect its power and ground to the amp's wires.

 

Added: It looks like you've crimped the speaker wires between the forward and reverse harnesses. You need to leave those separated. You only tie them together when you're adding an amp+subwoofer and continuing to drive the car's speakers directly from the OEM HU.

[Tinman]

Thanks for the help SVXdc and lucas569. Looks like I'll be running to the store tomorrow to get more wires, or this weekend. My wife might want to brave "Black Friday" to buy Christmas gifts for the kids. Hope you all had a good Thanksgiving.

 

I'll keep you posted on the install.

 

(Leaving the Re-Q5 in the trunk, so all I need is the 9-wire)

[GianniGT]

I am planning an amplifier install but i cannot figure out a good place to run the power wire through the firewall. I plan on using 4 guage wire.

Where did you run the wire?

--John

[darkside]

Ok I did my best to illustrate the MTX REQ install wiring

Before you start disco the positive wire on battery to avoid shorts.

 

Note that

Grey lines are white+ and white/black- , and brown wires go with these tied together for subwoofer RCA to work. Cant draw white wires on white screen.

 

Also, to get remote wire going pull a fuse wrap blue wire on fuse and put in a fuse were it turns on with ignition. check fuse paperback and it tells you which are ignition. I think mine is on wipers or cigarette lighter. Run blue wire to MTX REQ and to amp to turn on with ignition.

Easiest way to run power wire is by the front drivers kick panel. Try turning wheel on car and you can pull plastic fender to expose wire and get to battery.

 

Run speed wire 9 to aftermarket radio harness and then to your 4 channel amp

Run MTX REQ wiring to REVERSE harness, dont forget to tie in browns to whites to get sub signal. Also MTX REQ has double wiring. Only need one set. Cut excess off or put caps or tape on ends. dont want those extra double wiring touching metal. can cause a short.

Run RCA from MTX REQ to amps.

 

Everything else is color coated and just matching the colors of wires.

 

Most important of all take your time and triple check your wiring before moving to next step. Lots of wiring can make confusing, but not bad at all.

[jrb66]

SVXdc,

 

any chance you can link me to the correct forward and reverse harnesses? I have been reading sever reviews that say some "correct" forward harnesses lack certain 12v wires, and now you say the most commonly found reverse harnesses lack a wire as well...

 

any help is appreciated, i have begun to order the parts (thanks darkside)

[SVXdc]

SVXdc,

 

any chance you can link me to the correct forward and reverse harnesses? I have been reading sever reviews that say some "correct" forward harnesses lack certain 12v wires, and now you say the most commonly found reverse harnesses lack a wire as well...

 

any help is appreciated, i have begun to order the parts (thanks darkside)

I'll be happy to oblige. Contact me via e-mail to work out the specifics.

 

On the 14-pin harnesses out there, the wire most often missing is the Orange/White wire at pin 7. The factory radio needs that for the illumination and dimming to work properly.

[darkside]

Yep mine was missing a wire for illumination , without it the radio button don't light up at night, I think it was a ground. Us test light to determine if missing wire is hot or not

[jrb66]

thanks all... emailed SVXdc

[SVXdc]

Yep mine was missing a wire for illumination , without it the radio button don't light up at night, I think it was a ground. Use test light to determine if missing wire is hot or not

The missing wire is not simply ground (although it is the "low" side of the dash instrument illumination circuit). It varies from 0 to 12V as you adjust the dash illumination dimmer knob. If you were to ground that pin going into the radio, the backlights would always be at full brightness.

[jrb66]

one more question - utilize or don't utilize the factory speaker wires? what guage are they?

 

Thanks!

[darkside]

Yes factory wires are pretty good. I run 75x4 rms throught fact wires and no problemos. If u feel like trying to fish new wire thru rubber door gromets, have fun. It's a pain. Usually factory wiring is ran in spots thAt don't Emmitt noise. You're call

[jrb66]

I don't see myself running any more than 60 x 4 rms so I guess I will save myself the hassle and use the factory wires.

 

Darkside, you have been a huge help so far. I have everything I need ordered, minus an amp.... any suggestions? I am looking at these:

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRP-F300-Amplifier-V-Power-4-channel/dp/B0013TVALU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1273532214&sr=8-1]Amazon.com: Alpine MRP-F300 - Amplifier - V-Power - 4-channel: Electronics[/ame]

this one seems an all around solid 4 channel performer...

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-6400F-600-Watt-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B001NFFY3E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1273532402&sr=1-2]Amazon.com: Pioneer GM-6400F 600-Watt, 4-Channel Power Amplifier: Electronics[/ame]

a bit more power, about the same price...

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Crunch-PowerZone-P5000-5-Five-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B001T9N4PE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1273532306&sr=1-2]Amazon.com: Crunch PowerZone P5000.5 500 Maxx Watt Power A/B Class Five-Channel[/ame]

or this one, which would allow me to add a small sub in the near future...

 

 

what do you think?? i will be running polk db6501 comps in the front, and db651 coax in the rears...

[Tinman]

I have the Crunch 5 channel amp in my set-up and I like it a lot. Great price. I have Alpines components in the front, coax in the back doors, and 10" sub in a box sitting in the hatch. The speakers, sub/box, Req5, Crunch amp, speaker brackets, and wires all cost me about $800 total. Not bad for the set up. It sounds great and loud enough for me. I had already put second skin on the doors and inside the car.

[jrb66]

Thats almost identical to what I am looking to run... I looked into that amp once i saw it in your install pics. Just makes sense in case I want to add a sub in the near future.

 

Do you think it adequately powers your front comps? The only issue I have heard is the actual power it puts out is much less than the claimed output..

[darkside]

Crunch 5 channel will do the job, especially if adding the subs, I am picky , but as far as components 6/1/2 My favorite in order, Focal, JL, polk , alpine, pioneer, boston , mtx, all good just gotta listen to instore, or read reviews. chrutfield.com has great reviews on their products before purchasing some stuff, just see what other think about their purchase. I run Focal, mids, highs, 1 soundstream rubicon 600.4, 1 mmats d2000.1 and 2 12 RE Audio in ported box and off course MTX REQ.. Just make sure theres a warranty when u buy car audio. Electronic fail when they want too. Any other help hit me up.

[dr_sharp]

Guys, a quick question about the scosche wiring harnesses: can you just add your own wire into the harness? Or is the pin completely blocked off in the harness? I found both harnesses on amazon for $23.50...

[SVXdc]

The missing pins are vacant. But the question is -- where will you get the extra wire? The correct terminal pins are not commonly available. Plus they require a special (and expensive) crimp tool.

 

You could buy a second pair of harnesses and "transplant" one wire from each to the first pair, but then you'd end up spending much more than mine. Much easier just to get mine with all of the wires right off the bat.

[dr_sharp]

Oops... already ordered from amazon. Didn't know you had correct ones for sale.

 

I will see what I can do to get dimming functional.

[darkside]

I added the missing wire, Stripped a small strand, put in empty hole, used a little glue to keep wire in hole and ziptied to harness, been good for 2 years.