DIY air to water intercooler

[LGTspecB1657615261]

Its getting hotter out.

 

Cruising around the city today:

MAF IATs read 77 degrees

post-IC temps read 89 degrees

 

Sitting at a light, temps rose to 88 at one point

post-IC temps read 91

 

That slug of water in the system really helps at the stop light - that is for sure.

 

I bought some insulation and reflective material for the intercooler. I am going to insulate the intercooler and pipes with it, which will help keep the liquid inside cool if I make a quick stop somewhere.

[LGTspecB1657615261]

Well, I just measured and E85 is 75% ethanol right now. Last year I was tuned on 85%, and since then I have added the AWIC setup.

 

Not sure if I want to make the switch yet. I would probably just run a little rich - but my guess is Learning D would stabilize and get me pretty close to where I need to be for WOT.

 

I have the itch to switch!

[LGTspecB1657615261]

I am starting to wonder if I can get a larger intercooler to fit for moar cooling powers!

The core on my current IC is only: 9.25" x 3.5" x 3.5"

The proposed core below would be: 10" x 4.5" x 4.5"

 

So I would be going from 113 in^3 to 203 in^3 which is a significant increase.

The Air ports are both 3" so the reducing couplers would take up a lot more space.

 

What is installed now:

 

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/intercooler_11x9x3.5OSio_specsheet.jpg

 

 

Wondering if I can slam this in there:

 

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/intercooler_12x12.25x4.5OSio_specsheet.gif

[zenfamily]

How is the heat soak issue compared to the A/A TMIC? I've seen quite a few posts about heat soak issues for the TMIC, even for the aftermarket types. I haven't seen hard data on the other setups, but it seems logical that you would have more cooling when you turn on the car (start the fan). On other setups, it seems like you would have to get some appreciable airflow before temps go down (except for the front mount).

 

This A/W setup seems to give more bang (cooling) for the buck compared to other TMICs, and it seems like an easier and less expensive install than FMICs.

 

I'm just wondering if you're more sensitive to the temperatures b/c you have a sensor setup for them

[LGTspecB1657615261]

How is the heat soak issue compared to the A/A TMIC? I've seen quite a few posts about heat soak issues for the TMIC, even for the aftermarket types. I haven't seen hard data on the other setups, but it seems logical that you would have more cooling when you turn on the car (start the fan). On other setups, it seems like you would have to get some appreciable airflow before temps go down (except for the front mount).

 

This A/W setup seems to give more bang (cooling) for the buck compared to other TMICs, and it seems like an easier and less expensive install than FMICs.

 

I'm just wondering if you're more sensitive to the temperatures b/c you have a sensor setup for them

 

Heatsoak at stop lights is not bad at all. You have enough "cold" water sitting in the heat exchanger to tide you over. You will still see a rise, but its not bad.

Stop the car and go into a store for 30 minutes? Now there is the issue. All that water in the IC is heating up as the engine is radiating heat upward. Now you just have a slug of warm water you have to contend with. It takes a few passes through the heat exchanger before it cools back down.

Some insulation just arrived and I am going to wrap it. Make it like a thermos. It will take longer to heat up that way.

I have found that the little fan does not do much at all. Perhaps because it is not sealed well to the radiator, so I am not sure how effective it is at pulling air through it.

 

All that being said... when you are just cruising around town it really is great. the inlet temps are VERY stable and so far 10-15 degrees above what the air box is sucking in.

 

Once I had the pipes and brackets fabricated, it was really easy to install. The pump and water lines are a cinch. The heat exchanger bolted right up to the bumper beam with some self tapping sheet metal screws.

[ClimberDHexMods]

Thanks for the PM. I'm out until tonight, but I know of the perfect core choices for you, and I'll post tonight or tomorrow with links and an explanation.

[ClimberDHexMods]

Alright, here it is:

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=218&products_id=215&osCsid=349db07ef83b4a23d50a0f90af750a76

OR

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=218&products_id=217&osCsid=349db07ef83b4a23d50a0f90af750a76

 

They're the same core but with a different end tank configuration. They are HUGE relative to what you have and they have a huge flow window of 12x4, but that will do just fine for you. The only problem is fitting one. Choose the configuration you think you can get away with better. I would choose the one with the two center end tanks, but that's just me. You would need to remove as much stuff between the intercooler and intake manifold as you can, or push it out of the way. So get rid of that pretty plastic bracket and head breather hard tube thing, and move anything and everything else you can out of the way both below it and in front of it, perhaps remove the under-hood scoop piece to make more room if needed, and you are good to go.

 

The bigger issue is running the plumbing. I think you will have to cut several millimeters off the core water taps, or perhaps even a full 1cm, and re-tap 1/2 npt deeper in the intercooler. Fitting a 12"+ core between the firewall and intake manifold is completely doable because that's what I have there now, but it is not plug and play. I cannot confirm that there is enough room to fit the 90* water connectors either way, but you will be able to find out quick with a test fit. I did not buy this core size. I bought a couple other core styles and returned them after researching to find that bigger is in fact better here. Frozenboost.com has a good return policy, Charm is a nice lady, far better than the generic ebay vendors I had huge trouble with.

 

The key thing about this core is it is longer, as in the air will be in the core longer and more importantly, will contact more surface area of the core, which is the biggest disadvantage of what you have now. The giant window of these proposed intercoolers, as in the 12x4 cross section area (minus 55% for actual flowable area) is bigger than you need, but there is not much else out there for selection to get some decent length.

 

If you want to go cheaper,

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=218&products_id=214&osCsid=349db07ef83b4a23d50a0f90af750a76

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=218&products_id=211&osCsid=349db07ef83b4a23d50a0f90af750a76

 

These have less length, which is bad, but cost half as much and have the 3" inlet/outlet that is easier to adapt instead of the 3.5". Good luck.

 

As a final note, all these products are made in China for very little money. If you hang out and check ebay from time to time, you may find that the $300 intercooler is up for $150 from some made in China generic car parts vendor.

[NSFW]

+1 for Frozenboost. I've bought a bunch of stuff from them via their http://www.siliconeintakes.com web site (same company). T-bolts, joiners, vacuum hose, air filter, etc, etc. No complaints, they've always been quick to ship.

[ClimberDHexMods]

+1 for Frozenboost. I've bought a bunch of stuff from them via their http://www.siliconeintakes.com web site (same company). T-bolts, joiners, vacuum hose, air filter, etc, etc. No complaints, they've always been quick to ship.

 

You didn't hear it from me, but you can also get a wholesale discount by signing up as one with Charm. At the time I thought AWICs had superpowers and I could make kits, so I got the discount pretty easy with my company, and so can you

 

Come to find the air-water advantages are very situation-specific and not absolute, but you ARE on the right track if you don't track the car and do demand the fastest possible throttle response combined with great consistency. If I didn't have an automatic (where delayed throttle response can actually be better for the health of the transmission, or not even a consideration since it holds boost between all shifts), I would very likely have gone through with it. If you need spare AWIC supporting parts, please ask me first, I'll give you a sweet deal

[LGTspecB1657615261]

Yea I am not sure if I am up for cramming one of those huge guys in there. The water fittings would be a pain, I agree. Even a 90 degree fitting would add another inch.

 

I think the option I proposed above (look a few posts up) is the best for my setup. It is the closest to what I already have. It uses the same core as the last two you linked. I need one that puts the outlet up high near the firewall, so I have enough room for a cold pipe with my BOV, etc. That, and the turn you have to make is sharp, so having the distance between the IC and the TB is good.

 

Actually, there is an XO2 intercooler for sale on Ebay right now for $108 shipped. I might get it just due to the price. Probably not returnable though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Liquid-Intercooler-Air-Water-Intercooler-opposite-Inlet_W0QQitemZ320508866120QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9fd12e48

[shtbxr22]

subscribing for parts list if your sale goes through.

[zenfamily]

I've got LGTspecB's AWIC on & learned a lot. he was incredibly helpful with explaining his install. This setup definitely works on the 05-06 models, but it's a little tighter than the 08 model that it came from due to the slight change in the body. I still need to get a temperature meter to connect to the intercooler.

 

Here are some things that I've noticed so far:

• I've added a small surge bottle due to the >20F change in temperature during the summer days. I had to refill the system during my drive. I think this was due to the system heating up and overflowing out the surge line, but not being refilled (evaporating). After I added the bottle, I've had minimal issues with this.
  
• I'm thinking about rerouting the AWIC coolant lines, so the entire setup is on the passenger side. This would get rid of a few feet of hose, but the cool supply portion would be placed over the turbo/engine. I'm going to look at insulation to cover the hose and the bottom of the top mount.
  
• I'm going to have to get a different fan. The supplied fan will not fit between the front mount and the radiator.
  

I have performed one log on the car so far, and knock sum went down. I still need to find a better way to mount the top mount heat exchanger, because it is tapping on something on the firewall.

 

I'll try to post some additional pics to help explain this

[Draco-REX]

In a ballpark figure, how much weight do you think this AWIC system adds? I'm thinking this might be a good idea for my RallyX car since airflow over the TMIC is unpredictable. I have tons of room behind the bumper to fit a radiator and fan assembly.

[zenfamily]

About 40 lbs total.

[Draco-REX]

About 40 lbs total.

 

Drat. Maybe I'll just rig a sprayer to hose down the TMIC during the run. Thanks.

[Sarg]

Back from the dead, but exactly how much room did you figure that you had to mount (front to back) and intercooler on the top? About to do this and was curious how much room you figured. We are looking at the slightly larger cores...600 hp cores which is a step up from what you put on. As a side note, I can tell you just by holding it up the type 15 will not work at all! That is the 15"x12" bend. Hoping the 12.25x12 type 14 might work on this particular car. It is a Sti, but room should be similar.

[ClimberDHexMods]

I remember looking at a 12" length core with fittings on the intake manifold end, and it being very tight, but possible with a little customization.

[zenfamily]

It depends on what you willing to cut. I didn't have to cut into the bumper brace, but I did have to drill into it for the front mount. The most restrictive part will be the side where the brace curves back toward the radiator. That will help determine the size.

 

You may have to cut into the plastic bumper cover, but minimal compared to a FMIC