lkout4trucks Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 i've got a few questions, some of which are answered around the site, but i wanted to gather all my thoughts before making the leap. questions: 1. i've heard oil changes are a pain, do you guys run the quick oil drain valve or is it something to stay away from on these? maybe not this exact one but similar: http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/ -i've heard people say to replace the crush ring, this quick mod would eliminate that need. 2. whats the low beam bulb on these cars? i've got a 9005hid kit at home i'd like to toss in the car when i get one. 3. would a 2005 with 60-70k miles still have a warranty? i know its 5years but how would that work...am i screwed out of it as of jan 1st 2010 or? 4. what are common problems i can/should check for when buying the 4th gen lgt? 5. i'm going with a 5EAT...trans cooler and syn oil i hear is a must...what oil do you guys recommend? 6. i'm worried about under body damage whats the word on skid plates? what ones are good, needed, etc... i'll prob have more questions as the time goes on but i just wanted one single thread to keep it all intact so please nobody break me off with the "search" comment. Thanks, Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 1. Oil changes are very easy on the LGT. Replacing the crush washer is a heavy $0.50 commitment every 3k+ miles. The $25+ drain valve works fine. I actually have one, but it is purely unnecessary, and triples the drain time. Search for a discount code, save enough for 5 more crush washers. 2. H7 3. ask the seller 4. If you're worried, you can pay a mechanic to do his own inspection. 5. trans cooler on stock is mostly unnecessary, but why not. Any trans fluid is fine as long as it is what Subaru specifies. Don't go using Dex III/IV. Amsoil synthetic ATF is my favorite, but it is a huge price tag that is mostly unnecessary. You don't need it, but it has a few small perks. It flows great when cold, for instance. There are no objective case studies to show it performs "better" 6. Where do you live that you are worried about under body damage? Skid plates exist, which replace the plastic engine under cover thingy that I lost and haven't bothered replacing... I don't see how anything could realistically get damaged unless you have rally or serious back road aspirations. I drive on cement mostly, the occasional gravel or dirt road. No damage. It's great that you want to ask lots of questions, but please search the forum first. Go on Google and start your search thread with "site:legacygt.com " I PROMISE any remotely reasonable question you have has been asked a dozen times, and is preserved perfectly. Happy to help a new guy though. I was one the other day, and still don't know much. Just enough to modify myself broke. The fiancee is PISSED! [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schwinn Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 FWIW, I have never replaced the crush washer on the oil plug - on this car, or many other cars. It has made no difference - the oil plug is bone dry every time. So you can choose to do it, or not do it... it's up to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkout4trucks Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 I'm from NH. i live in the city (which is pothole heaven) but my girlfriend lives in the middle of nowhere woods so shitted up dirt roads are common as well. i have no intention on lowering it but prob an upgraded stock height setup down the road or VERY small drop. as for the crush ring im coming from a standpoint of NEVER owning a car, always a lifted vehicle. i've never used a jack to change my oil so if its a tight space or the oil filter is in a dumb area (ugh GM sure screws that up) than thats what i'm talking about. and yes i had the answer to some of this but wanted to store all my thoughts. **so theres no common issues to look out for on 4th gen lgt's? (ex: ball joint problem common issue, i know people mention "subaru problem" here and there...) thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I replaced my crush washer for the first time earlier this year. That was at the 26th oil change. I just counted in my little note pad. If it leaks after the oil change, buy a new one for next time. Your not going to loose that much oil. As for head light's, after going through a bunch of silverstars. I bought the "new" OEM replacments sometime late 04 or early 05 and have never had one burnout. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 OP, just buy a $40 set of Rhino Ramps at Autozone. Your cars rolls up 7" more on them, which is plenty to dink around under there. The plastic undertray even gives away exactly where these oil change points are. Hint, once you loosen the oil filter a little bit, unscrew it the rest of the way with a big red plastic solo cup. No mess. Oil filter location is excellent. Conversely, on my Avalon it's located on the side right underneath the headers. Had to wear a think work glove least time, no real way around putting body to header, not if the filter happens to be on tight... It's close to the headers on the LGT, but you are not obligated to touch them! [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkout4trucks Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 ok thanks for the advice. ramps are already a def since jacks freak me out after my buddys dad was crushed to death by a faulty jack last month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forced air Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 ok thanks for the advice. ramps are already a def since jacks freak me out after my buddys dad was crushed to death by a faulty jack last month. That suks and sorry to hear that but remember, jacks are to raise the car, jack stands is what the car should sit on for any under car work. All of your questions have already been answered but my answer for #5 is Royal Purple oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkout4trucks Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 ^yeah i know. he was using only the jack on an un-level driveway and it let go. he was just trying to check something real quick i guess...ugh. former marine and great guy. i personally would NEVER get under there without having the car on a perfectly level ground and a pair of stands. again having a cars going to be weird since i have about 18" from ground to frame right now haha i'll likely change out almost all fluids to full syn right away. might as well start out fresh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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