Walshy Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 hey i am all new to this whole car thing i am 20 years old and i want to upgrade my 1994 manual 2.2L subaru legacy AWD. It has the non turbo in it. I need some information on where to get good parts for it. On my first day out with it when i got my license i got in an acident with it but i love her still and want to upgrade her. It has some rust spots and the passenger side fender and door are messed up and i need to buy new ones. Also i need to get a new part for my dashboad, some one riped it out where the stereo goes. I will post pics downbelow. I was also wondering because of my cars mileage is over 250K if i should put a new engin in it? maby rebuild? if a new engin is the way to go can i put the turbo in it. Most of the rust i need to sand out and boundo it up. I have also have hade 2 problmes with it too where if i push over 4k on my tack the car shakes in 5th? Normal? and the second thing is i have a hard time when i first try to turn it over it wont. i takes me about 5-7 times trying to turn over then if it does work the car sakes? how to fix that or what it is would be nice. I love my suby i bough her for 600$ i love the car just need to upgrade her too. would like to have better over all proformence out of her too. so can anyone help me? http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g21/Jrwalsh_2004/PICT0013.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g21/Jrwalsh_2004/PICT0017.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g21/Jrwalsh_2004/PICT0024.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g21/Jrwalsh_2004/PICT0025.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g21/Jrwalsh_2004/PICT0020.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g21/Jrwalsh_2004/PICT0016.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g21/Jrwalsh_2004/PICT0019.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Go to a junkyard and get the storage compartment that the radio screws into. An aftermarket radio will bolt right up to the radio cage you're missing, and if you get a half din storage compartment at a car audio store it will fit under the radio and act as extra storage. Bondo for the rust. New front right fender, I got one for my 92 for $50 at the junkyard. Grill from a junkyard. The shaking is weird. If it were a warped flywheel it would shake almost all the time, especially at higher RPM's. You might just have to deal with it. I would keep the engine in there, it's probably still good. Check the timing belt, O2 sensors, belts, spark plugs and wires, CV shafts, and universal joints on the rear driveshaft, just to be on the safe side. For more performance, MSD ignition swap (PM me for more details), lightweight or under driven crank pulley, $20 aluminum MAF adapter from Boxer4Racing with a 3" cone filter (Makes it sound cooler, not much else), and a muffler. There isn't too many bolt ons for this motor without tearing the engine apart. For an engine this old, it's better to just leave it in one piece if it works as is. If the AC doesn't blow cold air anymore, take the belt off. If the compressor is still good, but there just isn't any pressure in the system and you plan on fixing the AC at some point, put the belt back on every once in a while to keep the clutch in working order and to prevent the compressor from seizing up. To make it handle better you should consider good quality struts. I'm not sure if your car has the air suspension or not, but if it does you want to check the struts for air leaks. This is common with that year. If it does have the air suspension you can replace the struts with regular ones, since the air struts are extremely expensive ($400 a piece) And pretty rare. And lastly, join the EJ22 group! http://legacygt.com/forums/group.php?groupid=10 Your car has the Subaru EJ22 engine, a very durable, dependable, long lasting motor that gets decent torque fairly low on the RPM band. It's a great motor, arguably one of the best aside from the twin turbo 2.0L JDM motor. The EJ22 group is full of smart people who want more performance and longevity from their EJ22, and it's full of pictures. We just need it to be more active, more comments, more pictures, ect... And most importantly, have fun! I'd kill for a 5 speed AWD Legacy. Keep that in mind if you ever go to sell it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walshy Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 hey man thanks for the reply and i will check ALL that stuff with in the next few days. but ATM i have no cash on hand to upgrade right now i have no job and i live in michigan where jobs do not come to far and in between lol. So how would i go about boundoing it up? and also i was wondering if a new paint job is worth it. because i was thinking on going (once i get her back in to shape) with jet black. and also i was wondering what tyiers are best for winter on a legacy? because winter is coming around the conner witch i am not so thrilled about. lol. but that mean i can drive through 5-10 high snow drifts with out any complantes. and i dont plan on selling my baby any time soon. i love that car i have to much fun with it. also is drifting with that car a bad thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 To Bondo something correctly, you should cut all the corroded metal out of the sheet metal body first, but you can get away with not cutting the rotted body away if you don't plan on driving the car for very long. So, cut the rotted sheet metal back as far as the rust goes. You want to feel solid sheet metal on both sides of the body panel. If replacing a large portion of a body panel, you may want to tack weld or rivet a section of 22 to 18 gauge sheet steel over the panel. Cut the sheet steel to fit if need be (Over fender wells.. Ect...). Buy a tub of Bondo and mix a golfball size glob of Bondo to about an inch or so of cream hardener. Smaller batches are preferred, since they are less wasteful. Use a putty knife, available at most autoparts or home improvement stores, to smooth out the Bondo over the damaged/rusted body panel. Try to replicate the shape of the original body panel as closely as possible. It's kinda like repairing a hole in a drywall/sheetock wall. After applying Bondo, wait 20-30 minutes (I always give it extra time to cure) before sanding). When sanding, use sandpaper that increases in coarseness to provide the smoothest possible finish for the paint to adhere to. You may want to start with 150, or 1000 depending on the level of corrosion/damage you're trying to repair. In your case you may want to start with the coarse stuff. From the coarse stuff, work your way up to the finer sandpaper (Example: 150 Grit to 200 Grit to 1,000 Grit to 2,000 until the surface is smooth. Once the surface is smooth and you can no longer visually see the grit lines in the soft Bondo, apply primer. Grey is a good primer, as it takes well to pretty much every top coat. Once you get to the part where you're looking to paint the entire car let us know and we can hook you up with more info. For the little dents and dings, or even the holes left by regular Bondo work you can use the Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty. It's about $3 a tube and worth every penny. Keep in mind, I am a mechanical kind of guy. I know some stuff about bodywork, but it's not my thing. If someone more knowledgable comes along take their advice over mine, you'll be better off in the long run. Part of my job description at the machine shop I work at is to bang out dents, rework parts, grind out dings, and blend in scratches in aerospace parts, but there is nothing in there about body work/Bondo. I'll admit, I'm not very good with Bondo. I'd replace the front fender and the door, those are pretty cheap at the junkyard nowadays. As far as a paint job being worth it, go for it! Mask off the black parts. It's uncommon for the window trim and windshield wiper arms to be as clean as they are on your Legacy, so mask them off with plastic or masking tape before you begin. If you don't have access to an air sprayer and paint, you can get a sprayer that clamps onto a spray can that makes the task of painting a vehicle much easier. These items clamp onto your average spray can and have a handle and a trigger that turn the can into a spray gun. They cost about $3-5 and are 100% reusable. They are great for spraying body panels. When spraying body panels, make sure to begin moving your hand before you start spraying, to avoid a build up of paint at the point where you start spraying. Likewise, stop spraying before you stop moving your hand. also, I've learned from airbrushing R/C Car and Truck bodies that you don't want so spray in one direction then immediately start spraying again in the other direction. You always want to spray in one direction, stop, move back to your original spray position, then spray again. This gives time for the air to settle, making for less dust contamination in the paint. It also keeps you from rushing, which gives you a cleaner paint job in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walshy Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 well i did a big mess up last night. i hit a deer and took out my whole left side main lighting area can any tell me where to go to get a cheap lighing assembly? BTW: hiting deers sucks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Tell me about it. I ran over one in my Hyundai Elantra that was lying in the road after the car in front of me hit it first. I got air off that one. Then I hit a baby deer in an old Nissan Sentra. I slid into him and he went under the bumper. Luckily I skidded to a halt before the tires got him, so I backed up and he got up and ran away. Got any pics of the damage? A trip to the junkyard will take care of your lighting issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walshy Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 hey i found the part lol thanks tho but i was wondering if swaping to a new engin is a good idea, would love to have a new one in and maby bump up to the turbo. do they have the same mounts and all for the set up? my moter has over 300K miles on it needs to have a swap out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 The bolts for the transmission are the same and so are the engine mounts. The only difference is if you find a turbo engine you will need the turbo ECU as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walshy Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 how much will the ECU run me doller wise? btw how much more HP will i get outa a turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 A turbo engine and ECU will probably be about twice the HP you're running with now. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Twice??? I don't know about that. If he installs a new EJ25 turbo then yeah, that EJ22 in there isn't putting down near the amount of horsepower it did when it ran off the showroom floor, but if he finds a stock EJ22T then he's probably looking at 160 HP. Sure it wouldn't be as sweet as an EJ25 turbo, but even used EJ25 turbo motors are expensive. Check one out on Ebay, WAY more money than a used EJ22T. You could probably buy an EJ22T, ship it all the way to his house, and rebuilt it from the ground up, valve job, machining and everything for less than buying a used EJ25 turbo from a newer Legacy GT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Yeah. I was talking about a new EJ turbo. I love the EJ22T's by the way. Great motors. Personally, I would go balls out and grab an EJ257 with the 6MT. LegaSTi FTW! My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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