cylinder #4 misfire

DoDo1975 · February 23, 2012

I spent some more time looking in the service manual. By chance does the OCV also have another name? Is there a walkthrough on changing it on this site?

**AZP Installs** · February 25, 2012

A compression test can also help. We just had a misfire code on a custy car, after testing the plug, moving the coil pack and moving injector, we found zero compression and a bad valve.

-mike

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DoDo1975 · March 8, 2012

Looks like I need to hav a valve job. SHould I replace the timing belt and water pump while this is done?

**AZP Installs** · March 8, 2012

Looks like I need to hav a valve job. SHould I replace the timing belt and water pump while this is done?

I would. Anytime the engine is going to be open, I would suggest it. Cheap insurance.

-mike

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DoDo1975 · March 8, 2012

I was reading the service manual. The water pump didn't appear to be all that hard a fix. Anyone have any idea what the average change time is for changing this? ie how many hours will a shop charge?

**AZP Installs** · March 8, 2012

I was reading the service manual. The water pump didn't appear to be all that hard a fix. Anyone have any idea what the average change time is for changing this? ie how many hours will a shop charge?

Water pump is behind the timing belt. Might as well do the timing belt at the same time. We do the water pump when we do timing belts so you can check the maintenance section n our web page for details on price.

-mike

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11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

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DoDo1975 · June 3, 2012

Been driving with the rough idle and #4 misfire for several months now. Doesn't seem to be getting worse. Leakdown test showed seemed to indicate rings rather than valves (based on poor compression, 30% leakdown loss and gurgling sound from oil filler cap).

But I don't appear to be burning any oil (haven't needed to refill it in months).

Under the circumstance above, is there anything else that might cause poor compression. I really want to be 100% positive before I pony up to put a whole shortblock in my car.

The car seems to drive OK most of the time, just idles like a tractor and a little rough uphill, and pulls the code. Could you see ring or ringland problems without any oil consumption?

**AZP Installs** · June 3, 2012

Been driving with the rough idle and #4 misfire for several months now. Doesn't seem to be getting worse. Leakdown test showed seemed to indicate rings rather than valves (based on poor compression, 30% leakdown loss and gurgling sound from oil filler cap).

But I don't appear to be burning any oil (haven't needed to refill it in months).

Under the circumstance above, is there anything else that might cause poor compression. I really want to be 100% positive before I pony up to put a whole shortblock in my car.

The car seems to drive OK most of the time, just idles like a tractor and a little rough uphill, and pulls the code. Could you see ring or ringland problems without any oil consumption?

Have you changed plugs, moved coil pack, and moved injector? If compression and leak down are good and no oil consumption, then, I would lean toward an electrical issue.

-mike

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

G-Force · June 5, 2012

Just to add to the cylinder #4 misfire problem, my 05LGT had it at about 80K miles, but ran fine, one repair shop said head gasket, dealer said all cylinders were low compression at 140psi and would only give me $500 in trade for a new car (morries in brooklyn park, MN - Will never go there again!). Could not get Subby to pay for $0.01 of rebuild. Figured they were stroking me so I drove it a couple thousand miles and it went away. Never came back. At 165K miles it blew, valve broke off destroying piston and head, and I believe the ring landing was bad too, there were large chunks of piston skirt in the oil pan, small hole on top from valve.

Car was bone stock. So I decided $10K was cheaper than a new car and I love this car so I'm doing a EJ257 shortblock, head, upgraded pistons, VF52 turbo, big TMIC, 740cc injectors, cold air intake, studs, all exhaust, boost controller and normal replacement items. I probably won't buy another Subby either, even though I love this car. Bad gas mileage and longevity is not up to standards. I am in love with AWD though, tough choice.

BTW, anyone have a left ej255 head?

DoDo1975 · August 8, 2012

Can a bad/malfunctioning turbo cause misfires in #4 only?

**Max Capacity** · August 14, 2012

Can a bad/malfunctioning turbo cause misfires in #4 only?

Anything is possible, but I'd say no. Turbo has nothing to do with ignition.

DoDo1975 · August 27, 2012

Well, finally received my engine and turbo. Installing this week. Anybody have any clue what I can do with the old block? Hopefully some way I can recoup some of the $6k this POS cost me to fix.

Is it worth anything as scrap? Will someone buy it and rebuild?

ibr_adam09 · August 27, 2012

sell them on here. they're worth alot more than just scrap.

Scooby2.5 · August 27, 2012

I sold my 2005 short block with 158K for $650. If its a 2005 its the same as an STI so people want it

If its not ruined it will sell

DoDo1975 · August 29, 2012

Great,

Another question. I have seen reference to ensuring you "start up" a new engine and turbo correctly by following certain procedures the first time. Anything special I should ensure the mechanic does to help ensure they don't blow up again?

DoDo1975 · September 4, 2012

The new short block is installed. Engine ran perfectly for a few minutes, then started misfiring. Shop said all the valves etc were in very good condition and compression was good pre-startup.

They did compression test and bad compression again so something isn't seated properly. Can Variable Valve Timing cause compression issues or something else that might be being overlooked or will this require removing the heads again?

**AZP Installs** · September 4, 2012

The new short block is installed. Engine ran perfectly for a few minutes, then started misfiring. Shop said all the valves etc were in very good condition and compression was good pre-startup.

They did compression test and bad compression again so something isn't seated properly. Can Variable Valve Timing cause compression issues or something else that might be being overlooked or will this require removing the heads again?

What shop is doing the work? Where are you located. Something seems ary here.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

DoDo1975 · September 4, 2012

I am in BC, Canada.

I trust the shop, and they still have the car. The problem re-appeared when they started it up after putting it all together.

I am just trying to help them out with ideas. I wasn't sure if the VVT needed to be retrained after one cylinder was out for a long time. Almost like when it was in open loop it ran great, but when it went to closed loop started misfing. Not sure if VVT would persist when engine is turned off when compression is checked though.

Scooby2.5 · September 5, 2012

The new short block is installed. Engine ran perfectly for a few minutes, then started misfiring. Shop said all the valves etc were in very good condition and compression was good pre-startup.

They did compression test and bad compression again so something isn't seated properly. Can Variable Valve Timing cause compression issues or something else that might be being overlooked or will this require removing the heads again?

It could be, just a guess, with the heads. Either the valves are not sealing or something like that.

05 turbo cars after close to 100K are known for the valve seats to get mushroomed from the valves and then having misfires.

My car the shortblock was perfect, but had misfires cylinder 4 and eventually 30 psi. Valve seat was shot in cylinder 4 head. Block and pistons perfect.

I would always check the buckets and make sure you have proper valve clearances etc.

And if you pulled a motor out I would always rebuild the heads by cutting/lapping the seats etc if you can.

Good luck with the problem

iam_immigrant · September 17, 2012

Recently I have had #3 misfire. Changed ignition coil but still there. Tried to change injector but somehow I managed to strip the head on the torx screw. Before I drill it out does anyone know the spec on this screw cuz I am pretty sure Subaru dealership wants a left nut for it so I want to know if any screw with same thread pitch will work.

The 'vacation' pics manual says I have a 'fuel rail' to undo but my '05 has nothing like that so I can't find any info.

Thanks

deltasierrahotel · January 22, 2013

Alright, folks. I've got a mystery to unravel on this topic...

Just got a new clutch Friday cause my TOB was on its way out. On my way home from the shop, my check engine light came on so I took it back yesterday. The mechanic pulled the code and told me it's a misfire on #4, unrelated to the clutch job.

I'm going to change my plugs tonight (sounds like fun, I'll be using the walk through on this forum. Thanks, Dookie!). I'll also run through some injector cleaner through but if that doesn't fix it, I'm thinking maybe a vac hose or something may have gotten disconnected during the clutch replacement? Does that sound possible?

The other thing that happened is they replaced an axle while they were in there and got grease on the exhaust system, so it was smoking during their test drive. When I was sitting waiting to pick up the car they guys were spraying A LOT of brake cleaner or something up into the car from the bottom to get the grease off. Any chance they soaked one of the coil packs or something? Or are they totally weather-proof?

Any thoughts as to how to approach this would be appreciated. My car's been out of commission for a week and I really just want to get back on the road with a TOB that's not about to fail and no check engine lights on. Right now I'm at $1,600 and I'm hoping I don't have to put too much more into this before I'm able to stop getting rides to work every day.

deltasierrahotel · January 24, 2013

Update: So I changed the plugs Tuesday night (what a pain!) and swapped the coil packs from cylinders 1 & 4, figuring if it was a coil pack the misfire should move to #1. I also put Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the tank. The car ran okay during my ten minute test drive at 1am, but the check engine light came on again yesterday when I was driving from work to the gym (only about 1 mile) while the engine was still very cold (it's been in the teens here in Philadelphia for the past 5 or so days).

I pulled the code and now I've got misfires on cylinders 2 & 4. It idles low and rough when I'm at a stop, but when I'm moving everything seems normal, so far as I can tell.

I'm taking it back to the transmission guy today and asking him to take another look to make sure everything got hooked back up properly when they put the new clutch in last week. If they don't find anything, I'll be out of ideas, except to take it to the dealer and throw myself at their mercy. Unless any of you have ideas.

I would think if I had a valve or fuel injector problem, I wouldn't suddenly have 2 cylinders misfiring now. The transmission guy suggested that it sometimes takes a while for Subarus to readjust to the proper fuel mixture after having the battery disconnected. But it seems to me that a rough idle is one thing--multiple cylinders misfiring is another.

Thoughts?

**AZP Installs** · January 24, 2013

Alright, folks. I've got a mystery to unravel on this topic...

Just got a new clutch Friday cause my TOB was on its way out. On my way home from the shop, my check engine light came on so I took it back yesterday. The mechanic pulled the code and told me it's a misfire on #4, unrelated to the clutch job.

I'm going to change my plugs tonight (sounds like fun, I'll be using the walk through on this forum. Thanks, Dookie!). I'll also run through some injector cleaner through but if that doesn't fix it, I'm thinking maybe a vac hose or something may have gotten disconnected during the clutch replacement? Does that sound possible?

The other thing that happened is they replaced an axle while they were in there and got grease on the exhaust system, so it was smoking during their test drive. When I was sitting waiting to pick up the car they guys were spraying A LOT of brake cleaner or something up into the car from the bottom to get the grease off. Any chance they soaked one of the coil packs or something? Or are they totally weather-proof?

Any thoughts as to how to approach this would be appreciated. My car's been out of commission for a week and I really just want to get back on the road with a TOB that's not about to fail and no check engine lights on. Right now I'm at $1,600 and I'm hoping I don't have to put too much more into this before I'm able to stop getting rides to work every day.

1600 for a clutch? Should have made the trip up to us and saved a bit.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

**AZP Installs** · January 24, 2013

Update: So I changed the plugs Tuesday night (what a pain!) and swapped the coil packs from cylinders 1 & 4, figuring if it was a coil pack the misfire should move to #1. I also put Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the tank. The car ran okay during my ten minute test drive at 1am, but the check engine light came on again yesterday when I was driving from work to the gym (only about 1 mile) while the engine was still very cold (it's been in the teens here in Philadelphia for the past 5 or so days).

I pulled the code and now I've got misfires on cylinders 2 & 4. It idles low and rough when I'm at a stop, but when I'm moving everything seems normal, so far as I can tell.

I'm taking it back to the transmission guy today and asking him to take another look to make sure everything got hooked back up properly when they put the new clutch in last week. If they don't find anything, I'll be out of ideas, except to take it to the dealer and throw myself at their mercy. Unless any of you have ideas.

I would think if I had a valve or fuel injector problem, I wouldn't suddenly have 2 cylinders misfiring now. The transmission guy suggested that it sometimes takes a while for Subarus to readjust to the proper fuel mixture after having the battery disconnected. But it seems to me that a rough idle is one thing--multiple cylinders misfiring is another.

Thoughts?

You change plugs and moved coil packs. So the #2 misfire could have been a result of changing the plugs. Since the misfire on 4 hasn't moved I would think it is a valve or injector.

Before you have a dealer chase it down, take a ride up to us and see if we can diag it for you.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

deltasierrahotel · January 24, 2013

1600 for a clutch? Should have made the trip up to us and saved a bit.

Well, I also got a new axle while it was in there. And I got two quotes at $2,200 for just the clutch, so I went for it.

Thanks for the offer, but you guys are about 1.5 hours from me, so I don't know if I'll be able to make it up there in the next few days.

cylinder #4 misfire

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