RaGe Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 well thats what i was wondering. on the actual compressor side is there only two male metal clips? i know the harness has two wires, and i tried digging the metal clips out, but i had planned on just making new connectors for it and doing like you said. There is really no need to purchase a new compressor when there is nothing wrong with mine other than the connector. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltrain Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 well thats what i was wondering. on the actual compressor side is there only two male metal clips? i know the harness has two wires, and i tried digging the metal clips out, but i had planned on just making new connectors for it and doing like you said. There is really no need to purchase a new compressor when there is nothing wrong with mine other than the connector. That is correct. Once you scrape away whats left of the melted plastic there should be two small male spade clips (on the compressor side). Just make sure you also pull away whats left still attached on the harness side. Which ever way you choose to do it, there are just the 2 wires that need to be reconnected to the compressor. As long as those make contact i dont foresee you needing to replace the whole compressor. But in my case, my friend wanted everything to look back to normal and unmolested so we ended up replacing everything. -L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 The aftermarket pulleys appear to me to be one piece rather than the OEM style two piece with the rubber dampener. Is that right? And if so does that cause any issues? It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 The aftermarket pulleys appear to me to be one piece rather than the OEM style two piece with the rubber dampener. Is that right? And if so does that cause any issues? you are correct. WT/COBB/PERRIN are all 1 piece pulleys. i ran a COBB pulley on a 2.5i for a couple years. i had zero issues, and i have been on this board for a while and have heard of zero cases or known issues with an aftermarket pulley. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 That is correct. Once you scrape away whats left of the melted plastic there should be two small male spade clips (on the compressor side). Just make sure you also pull away whats left still attached on the harness side. Which ever way you choose to do it, there are just the 2 wires that need to be reconnected to the compressor. As long as those make contact i dont foresee you needing to replace the whole compressor. But in my case, my friend wanted everything to look back to normal and unmolested so we ended up replacing everything. -L one more stupid question then. when wires go to what male connector? OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltrain Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 one more stupid question then. when wires go to what male connector? When you scrape away all the melted plastic on the compressor side you will see what is left of the connector. It is just 2 very small male spades side by side. The whole point is to reconnect the harness side wires to these little spades. Hope that makes sense. *edit* didn't notice the other pics you posted... Snip the black melted clip off the blue and black wires in this pic: http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i171/Crucifix79/belt042.jpg Find some really small female spade connectors and crimp one on the end of the blue wire and one on the end of the black wire. http://images.maplin.co.uk/full/n22an.jpg Then clip each female spade to each of the male compressor male spade connectors in this pic: http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i171/Crucifix79/belt044.jpg -L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 yeah i know that, just didnt know if it matters which wire goes on which male spaded connector. since it melted the AC side that i cannot tell. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltrain Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Yeah I think I misinterpreted what you were asking sorry. I thin the blue wire goes closer to the connector on the bottom side closer to the ground and the black wire goes to the connector closer to the top (hood). Its just a switch anyways if that doesnt work just switch them around i don't think it will cause any problems if you do. But I am no electrical expert. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/liblanket/Legacy%20Crank%20Pulley/ACHarnessPic.jpg http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i171/Crucifix79/belt011.jpg -L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 that last picture helps. as soon as i get the money together i am going to start tearing everything apart and putting it back together. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 any updates? we should do a class action lawsuit. ive heard of 6 people in my neck of the woods that had the exact problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 no, no updates really. mccorry let me borrow his pulley. i wired up the A/C but it doesnt work so tough shit there. JB welded the timing cover. i doubt i will buy a new one. and thats about it. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Val Demar Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Was getting ready to replace the belts when I found this thread which made me nervous. How do I check the pulley w/o removing it? Do I just grab it around and apply force in various directions to see if the outer part is loose? 05 LGT 53k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 have no clue, you can see visibly (at least on mine) it was messed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltrain Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Was getting ready to replace the belts when I found this thread which made me nervous. How do I check the pulley w/o removing it? Do I just grab it around and apply force in various directions to see if the outer part is loose? 05 LGT 53k miles. Take a look at these pics on my post from a similar thread. This is the Front of the pulley facing the radiator: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/liblanket/Legacy%20Crank%20Pulley/BadCrankPulley2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/liblanket/Legacy%20Crank%20Pulley/BadCrankPulley3.jpg Here is one from the back of the pulley: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/liblanket/Legacy%20Crank%20Pulley/BadCrankPulley1.jpg Notice that there is an "inner" and "outer" ring. Between them is a thin line of rubber that laminate them together. You want to check for cracking there and any showing of separation between the two. I would say take a peek from underneath the car as well (you have to remove splash guard if you haven't already done so) and as close as you can get from the engine bay for those signs. You can also pull the fuel pump fuse and have a friend crank the motor and you can watch the pulley closely as it spins. My suggestion is use this opportunity to upgrade to a lightweight pulley now and save yourself a possible headache later. Many have had zero issues with that pulley. But given my personal experience, I would change it! good Luck! -L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltrain Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 If you got the extra cash look into and ATI pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1969 Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 would the crank pulley failure be covered under warranty? If so, then all the other damage it cause should be covered also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 according to gttuner, he said i could just buy the clutch for the compressor and replace but i looked @ online parts catalog and im not 100% sure they sell it separate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 i dont know. i still havent replaced mine. kind of not wanting too, but i know the heat wave will be here before we know it. if you find something out let me know. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottj Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I was never able to fix my AC clutch or find a replacement clutch. I tried connecting the harness to just the pins but the clutch still didn't engage. I bought a junkyard compressor for $200 and took the clutch off it and put on the existing compressor. Of course the AC still doesn't work but probably the coolant is low. Since the engine is still sitting on my workbench it doesn't matter too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 i dont know. i still havent replaced mine. kind of not wanting too, but i know the heat wave will be here before we know it. if you find something out let me know. getting hot now any updates on this? i found some cheap ones used on the web, but im laid off as of late so another crappy HOT summer for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted May 29, 2010 Author Share Posted May 29, 2010 yeah, buddy of mine located me one. picked up up for 80 bucks. but....i dont know the status on it. he bought some stuff and had to go get it. ill let you know how it works out though. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 soa should have a tsb on this retarted design flaw, a $15 belt shouldnt lead to hundreds of dollars in damage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottj Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 Compared to the 50 cent turbo oil supply filter that ends up costing thousands, this is small potatoes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 Compared to the 50 cent turbo oil supply filter that ends up costing thousands, this is small potatoes. yup, SOA is penny smart dollar stupid! When this 1st occurred to my car, it was $2,000 to fix out the door! i said how much just to get me BACK on the road? they said $370, been w/out AC since but its been torture. BLACK leather and no AC = Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 Compared to the 50 cent turbo oil supply filter that ends up costing thousands, this is small potatoes. maybe so, but this isnt a turbo oil supply thread is it?http://legacygt.com/forums/../images/smilies/wink.gif point being it is a design flaw that could potentially lead to a motor ( worse case ). if the belt would eat through the timing cover enough to get ahold of the timing belt and shred it well......goodbye 2.5 a new AC compressor is over 500+, a wiring harness. a new belt over 100. a 3 section peice timing cover that is sold each not set, not to mention the 100 buck gauge ( probe wiring ) it ate through when it decided to shred everything. that and if someone isnt mechanically inclined the labor to perform the repairs. so while it might not cost " thousands " for some of us whether it be 1k or 2K, no matter how you look at it, its money that i dont have, and repairs that i would not like to make. +1 on the black leather interior. i know i would have liked to of had it that last couple of days with this 90 degree temps. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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