Jordan Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 So I changed my oil on sunday with castrol gtx edge 5w30 and I added that engine restore crap because im a sucker for stuff like that. Any way the next night I was driving around then parked and went back in my car and it wouldnt start. It would crank for like a second and then it seemed like it stopped trying after numerous attemtps at this I tried and it worked. The next day I go to work and when I get out same problem tried for like 10 minutes then let it sit and it worked. I check my cels with my ap and the normal one for the catless uppipe was there but then there was something like incorrect key code or something wierd like that. Any way after I got it started I was drivng and the car shutt off on a highway entrance and then I was able to use the key the 1st try to get it to work again. Havent had the problem since yesterday but the car idles very wierd after it is warmed up like it wants to die. No noises engine oil level is good I cant figure it out any help would be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 bump for you, interested in this [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lukovitch Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Sounds like a dodgy immobiliser to me, try your spare key...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 Actually yes that is what the cel said something about wrong immobilizer key. What does that mean? This is my main key should I get a new one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Just my $.02, can't say it's what your problem is, but it's something: If one of your keys simply isn't programmed to your car (different immobilizer code, all should be the same) then what you do is bring every key you have into the dealer with your car, tell them the situation, and they will get every key programmed to start the car. I have that exact situation now, only one key starts the car. Well, different than you because sometimes yours works. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 take all the crap off your key ring. The oil is an unrelated problem, but you shouldn't put the Restore in. If you read the can you would know it's not for your situation. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Actually yes that is what the cel said something about wrong immobilizer key. What does that mean? This is my main key should I get a new one? It may be the key, but it may be that you have another key with an immobilizer or other gadget on your keyring that interferes with the reading of the code on your key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 thet is wierd stoof [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 In for pics of key ring! What do you have on that thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyGT08 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Had the EXACT same problem you're having. Had the key from my civic on the same chain and it was confusing the reader in the steering wheel. When the keys would shift, it thought it was getting the wrong code from the key and it wouldn't start, or it would die. Try taking your key off the ring and starting it that way. Worked wonders for me. NEVER ARGUE WITH A STUPID PERSON. THEY WILL DRAG YOU DOWN TO THEIR LEVEL, THEN BEAT YOU WITH EXPERIENCE. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quicklook2 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 a lesson learned here: don't add restore to a subaru. trix are for kids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 Ok the key thing seems too have fixed itself but whats the deal with restore why cant I use it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Cause it's meant to chemically fill in scratchs in cylinder walls. You shouldn'thave any scratchs in your cylinder walls. Whatever chemical is in there, could possibly gum up your turbo or something. It's doing absolutly nothing for your engine. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 a lesson learned here: don't add restore to a subaru. trix are for kids. Added this stuff to My Subie ever since it made my Nissan run on 4 cylinders. The stuff is liquid gold. I'm not into snake oil, infact, if it was any other additive other than Marvels Mystery Oil for installing pistons into a fresh block I wouldn't buy it, but this stuff really does improve cylinder pressure in older engines. It does exactly what mweiner said. Put it in your oil and with repeated heat/cool cycles it will harden into scratches like some crazy gypsy enamel into the cylinder walls and help to fill them in temporarily, increasing compression for the time being. I had a car that would only run on 3 cylinders and after pouring in this additive within 25 miles I had all 4 cylinders back (albeit weak cylinders, but cylinders nonetheless). I don't know how well this works for engines with oil operated VVT systems though, in which case you can't go wrong with standard grade motor oil. Unless you have an older or high mileage car, this product is realy not required. Infact, stay away from such snake oil until your car is deemd a high mileage vehicle. There are some additives/flush solvents on the market that do more harm than good. Not saying I don't think this product works, just saying this product isn't necessary in your car.... Yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 I should have been more clear. It's not a bad product, this was just not the intended use for it. It's meant for high millage like Plat said. (more than 150,000 miles usually) My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Posted August 24, 2009 Author Share Posted August 24, 2009 It is recommended for cars with 50k and the way I drive my car the engine probobly feels like that after just 45. if it gumed up moving parts like the turbo then dont you think it would gum up everything else and it would be a terrible product? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Posted August 24, 2009 Author Share Posted August 24, 2009 Im pretty sure after 45k miles evey engine has microscopic imperfections that were not originaly there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 I just took my shortblock out with 75k miles on it and it still had the crosshatching in the cylinders from day 1. 70k of those miles were spent modified. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyGT08 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Good to know. I'm at 45,000'ish miles...and I tend to drive a little harder than your average driver. I'm still Stage 1, and I'm a maintenance nut. I think I should be ok. NEVER ARGUE WITH A STUPID PERSON. THEY WILL DRAG YOU DOWN TO THEIR LEVEL, THEN BEAT YOU WITH EXPERIENCE. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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