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engine treatments


vanman281

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I am wondering if anyobdy has used any engine treatments to slow or possibly stop their burning problem. I have posted before about my oil problem, and have come to the conclusion of burning. No signs of oil undercar, and is not shown through smoke while driving. I have seen a couple of products one is hyperlube, and the other MOA, advanced formula. Any other suggestions to products i could use to slow my oil burning?
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Engine Restore W/CSL is the best of the best. I had a car with worn piston rings causing the engine to only run on 3 cylinders and Engine Restore W/CSL made it run on all 4 whenever I added it to the oil. I normally don't fall for Fix-All Snake Oils and all that jazz, but Engine Restore W/CSL is something to try. It comes in 4, 6, and 8 cylinder sizes. It comes in a can, and is worth every penny. Just pour it in, drive the car about 50 miles or 3 or 4 trips letting the engine warm up and cool down completely, and you'll notice somewhat higher compression and less oil consumption. This won't last forever, though (Nothing will except fixing the problem). To make sure the consumption stays under control add another can every oil change.
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i advance to stay with one brand if you do add extra stuff into your engine

 

my friends friend, did oil changes himself, whenever he bought oil and bought some other oil treatment. each time he bought something different. i dont remember how many miles but less than 60k the whole engine was filled completely with sludge (eventually all the residual products had mixed) had the replace the whole engine. and this was a new car, not a used car

5eat downshift rev match:):wub:

Powder coated wheels: completed:)

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This is also good advice. I wouldn't reccommend using a high number of different additives in one engine, but the cause of the engine faliure was probably due to bad additives. Some additives, such as motor flush's' and non descript motor treatments generally due more harm than good.

 

Whatever you do don't ever use a motor flush. The directions will tell you to add to existing oil, run the engine for X amount of minutes, then drain and replace the oil. These are bad because they turn the oil to water in the hopes of dissolving sludge buildup. The problem here is that some of the sludge buildup can actually be helping to seal/lubricate some parts, that and running the engine with watery oil can be a volatile situation. The flush solvent will pretty much remove any and all oil from main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, piston rings, cam seals, and front/rear main seals. This means you're running the engine with practicly no lubrication while you're trying to breakdown the sludge, doing more harm than good. Plus, when you add the new oil to the system the left over "Flush" residue will remain in the cylinder heads and all over internal components, diluting the new oil that you plan on running for the next 3-4K miles. This will break down the new oil considerably faster than regular additives.

 

Edit: And NEVER use SeaFoam in the engine's oil or vacuum lines. This stuff is just as bad as motor flush treatments. Only use SeaFoam in the gas tank to clean injectors. :)

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As far as seals/rings... Never had a problem with rings. My EJ22 has good compression and doesn't burn much oil at all. There are cases where the cam seals will start leaking. To replace these seals one must remove the timing belt and the timing cover, along with the cam pulleys. This wouldn't cause the engine to burn oil, but leak it instead. Check the front of the engine around the timing cover to see if there is any oil leaks. Crank seals can also cause oil leaks. Also make sure the oil drain plug is tight, as older plugs that have been reused one too many times will sometimes leak. Oilpan gaskets can also cause an oil leak. As far as burning oil, the main culprits are piston rings, poor PCV system, and worn valve guides. I reccommend Engine Restore W/CSL to put a so-called "Chemical BandAid" on wherever the leak is coming from. My guess would still be the cam seals, as these are prone to leakage more than consumption through the piston rings in the EJ22. If the engine has extremely high mileage, the piston rings could still be the culprit, but the EJ22 generally can last up to 200 - 250K miles between overhauls. A leak won't generally reduce performance, while low compression from worn rings/burning oil can. If the engine still runs with decent power, chances are it's a leak. You can pull one of the spark plugs and see if it's covered in oil to make sure (Just make sure it's not carbon deposits, and that it's really oil).

 

ZMax is good stuff, but I'm not so sure it's worth the high pricetag. I remember they used to have infomercials where they would run a Chevy V8 with no oil, no oil pan, and no valve covers and dump sand all over the internals and claim that it was the ZMax that kept it running. Truth is, any engine will do that, engines just won't do it for long. If it's a new or freshly rebuild motor it will last quite a while too. I've personally never tried ZMax, but I've heard decent things. I've also heard that it does the same thing as other, cheaper additives.

 

When it comes to additives, Marvel Mystery Oil is good to lube pistons for reinstallation, Engine Restore is good to seal worn rings and seals, Lucas is a good oil stabilizer (So is using heavier weight oil though), and Gumout is the only injector cleaner I use, although Chevron is quite good also.

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I've checked for leaks, had a shop check with dye, no leaks have been found. I have noticed a small power loss, and have thought it may be the piston rings the whole time. I will give Engine restore with CSl a try. thanks.
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MOA is a great product, but it's not going to help your burning through oil problem because it's a cleanser. BG makes another product called RF-7 which is more suited for your problem. I haven't used it myself, but BG makes the best products IMO.
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