evilO Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I guess I am just stumped at the cost of all this. I just did the 30K on my 2007 FJ. Dealership wanted $740. I did it for $250 in my garage. Just rolled 15K on my 2010 LGT. I was quoted $320 for the 15K service at my dealership. I have purchased everything needed (including a couple of tools I did not have) for ~$120 (that includes switching over to synthetic plus AVO drop filter). When the time comes, I think I will be doing most of my 60K myself. I know I won't be able to bleed the brake system on my own so I won't mind paying for that. But if I can save a few hundred dollars (and learn about my car at the same time) I am all for it. BTW, I am not a great mechanic but the dollar motivates me and I did a bang up job on the FJ... I am sure I will do just fine on the LGT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 If you can follow directions and are willing to go to a hardware store to buy a short section of small clear tubing, you can bleed your brakes. You'll need someone to pump the pedal for you or you could buy a hand vac unit like this and do it solo: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Brake-Bleeding-Kit/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1307460090&sr=8-3]Amazon.com: Mityvac Brake Bleeding Kit: Automotive[/ame] All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubasteve Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 even 2 hours for plugs is long enough to swap plugs, drink a 6 pack and take a nice long relaxing poo. I don't have the best wrench skills and I can swap plugs in less than an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 even 2 hours for plugs is long enough to swap plugs, drink a 6 pack and take a nice long relaxing poo. I don't have the best wrench skills and I can swap plugs in less than an hour. Is your car a turbo? -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtmenace Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 ugh ... i did my plugs ... & i'll never do them again. my knuckles will never be the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtmenace Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 it's slightly less a hassle than changing the oil filter on a ~84 peugeot ... which practically requires dropping the block... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubasteve Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Good point Mike. Current cars are n/a. I do remember it taking longer in my old '91 turbo legacy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtmenace Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 it's the coil packs against the frame that makes it a real PITA ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilO Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 it's the coil packs against the frame that makes it a real PITA ... I have yet to change them. Any "trick" to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsports Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 I have yet to change them. Any "trick" to it? You will do fine. There is no magic, just take your time. I removed the battery, air box and air assist pump housing. Seriously a few bolts, and a few hose clamps. Coil packs remove easily, just rotate them 180* while pulling them off. It is very apparent how they need to be rotated in order to clear the fender wells. Plugs are easy, use a 5/8 deep dish with rubber gasket, knuckle to a stubby 3/8 in drive. When the socket is on the plug, you will have plenty of room for removal even if you have large hands. Put anti-seize on the plug threads. To install, just detach the drive and use the socket and knuckle to "start" the plug. No risk of cross threading this way. Tighten 1/4 or 1/2 turn once seated. Coil packs back on, plug them back in and put your car back together. Your car will idle like new again. Looks daunting, but it's not. Oh, and a thousand bucks for a 60K service is outrageous. That would be a dealer to avoid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 A few notes for DIYers on the plugs: Be very careful with the plugs to the coil packs. After 60K+ the plastic becomes very brittle and we've seen them shatter pretty easily. Also anyone near us can get them done for $135 with the NGK OEM Plugs and enjoy some refreshments -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Good point Mike. Current cars are n/a. I do remember it taking longer in my old '91 turbo legacy. Damn! Now I miss my '94 Legacy SS! Even on those it was easier than the newer turbo cars. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theGeneral Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 To be honest it isn't that bad. The 6 cylinders are more of a pain. Yea, my wife has one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Might be a little off-topic, but is the 60k mile check up absolutely necessary? Don't really have $600 to spare at the moment (college sucks). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 No maintenance is "necessary" for the car to run in the immediate future. However if you skimp on maintenance you are flirting with disaster later on in the life of the car... -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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