97 LGT CV boots abye bye

[gathermewool]

Changed the oil today and noticed some grease on the cat, passenger-side control arm and pretty much every where circumferential outward from the passenger-side inner CV boot. Couldn't see the tear, but I guess that doesn't matter. The outer boot sheared all the way around with grease flung about as well. The driver-side front has a few cracks. Replace, too?

 

I've got another car I can drive, so the Leggy will be sitting until I figure out what to do. I called the local dealer who said at least $200 to replace the boots. He asked if I heard a rapid ticking when I take sharp corners. I relied that I hear a click or two, but no rapid clicking. I don't really drive the leggy hard so that doesn't mean much, maybe. He said I might as well add $75 to replace some thigamajigger just to be safe.

 

I think I have a pretty good relationship with the service guy, and the price seems to be reasonable for the pain in the ass I think it might be. Any input would be great. I know prices will vary from place to place, but comments specific to how easy this is would be appreciated.

 

I've replaced all four struts, do brakes myself and simple things like this. My level of skill is competent, not-so-experienced newb

[Bdubs]

He probably wants to replace the whole axle. Which is not a bad idea, seeing the elements have gotten to the joints. A reman. one will run you about what estimated. It's not much in labor if you choose to not do it yourself, only a couple hours they should charge.

 

The crappy part about changing them yourself, is breaking the axle nut, and removing the roll pin on the diff. end. They sometimes need a lot of convincing, but otherwise, pretty straight forward. I have also found removing the strut bolts from the knuckle, so it'll tilt outwards will give enough room to replace it. Sucks if you just had the car aligned, but I suppose that's a sacrifice.

[gathermewool]

Some one else mentioned just replacing the whole drive shaft, too. If it's only cursing and effort that'll get'er done then I'm game. I was worried it would be incredibly complicated or damned near impossible to do. Thanks for the tip about the strut. I replaced the struts 12/07 so the bolts should be easy to get off. Oh, and I DID just have the alignment done a few months ago after replacing the tie-rods.

 

I've also got loose boots with some grease coming out of the ball joint boots. One of the sets of axle replacement instructions mentions removing the ball joint nut. Would it behoove me to just replace the ball joints or is that asking for trouble? Thanks for the help!

 

Oh, and who would you recommend I go to for parts?

[Bdubs]

Replacing the ball joints while you are there isn't a bad idea. Just be careful, the bolt holding the ball joint into the knuckle is known for breaking. Lots of PB blaster for a couple days, a little bit of heat helps.

 

On one side of my 91, I actually had to use a puller to separate the control arm from the ball joint, and when it broke free, the damn puller just about took my head off as it went flying across the garage. Seized right on there good. The other side, I just tapped the control arm with a hammer, and it came right out.

 

Replacement is much easier than removal though. At least you know it'll all go back in fine.

[Platinum_Racing]

CV Shafts are simple. The hardest part for me was getting a hammer in that tight space to tap the pin into the output shaft of the transmission, and that was a simple fix once I got a long enough screwdriver....

 

You can't replace the boots on one of these axles, the entire axle must be replaced. The axle itself shouldn't cost more than $75 after you bring the old one back to the store and get your core deposit back. I could write a how to if you want, but only if you're considering doing the work yourself, as I feel rather lazy at the moment...

 

You shouldn't hve to remove the ball joint at all. I did mine by removing the lower strut bolts. You just have to finagle the shaft in if you want to leave the ball joints on. As far as removing the eccentric bolts in the strut mount without messing up alignment... It's called a Sharpie. Mark the bolts and when you put it back together line up the marks you made before disassembly. From what I hear, ball joints in these cars don't like to come off withaout a fight. If you want to replace them it's nothing a crowbar couldn't fix though... As far as the grease boot leaking on the ball joint, if it's not making any noise just leave it and grease it up more often. If you're concerned replace it. If you have a grease gun it takes about 10 seconds and a pair of gloves to do this job once a month without getting dirty. Grease gun is $10 at NAPA, and a tube of grease will last you all year probably (If you're just doing one or two ball joints once a month).

[blackfang]

You can't replace the boots on one of these axles, the entire axle must be replaced.

 

Says who?

 

You most certainly can replace just the boot/bands and grease as long as their still is grease inside the joint, and no signs of the axle failing. We do it all the time. In the past 4 years, I have yet to see an axle fail from where we replaced just the boot. Now if the joint is dry and it appears it has been split open and ran that way for a while, you really should. However, you don;t always have to replace the axle as protocol.

[gathermewool]

Thanks again for all the helpful hints. I think my current course of action will be to replace the axle and the ball joint. I'm not happy with the alignment as-is so I'll be needing that done any how. Also, while the steering isn't sloppy, it's noticeably less sound then a year ago when I first noitced the ball joint defect. Is there a specific way to grease the joints? I've heard some use some sort of needle, but it seems the best way would allow for the new grease to push out the old grease. Minus a grease fitting I'm not sure how this can be done.

 

I'm going to be pretty busy at work over the next few months, but I'll try to squeeze in a lift day at the Subbase some time soon. I'll start my research now and make sure I'm prepared to do this. The Subbase hobby shop has an ok selection of tools, but they never seem to have what I need when I REALLY need it. If any one has a pre-made list of needed or good-to-have tools or can cut my search short with a link to a how-to I'd be really appreciative.

 

Thanks again, guys!

[Platinum_Racing]

To replace the CV shaft you're going to want a metric socket set, a set of metric box wrenches, a large 32MM socket (Put this on a breaker bar if you have one), a hammer, a long screwdriver, and something to push the old output shaft pin out of the old CV shaft. You'll need to remove the brake hose from the strut with the screwdriver and the hammer, and you'll need the 32MM socket W/ breaker bar for the large nut that holds the axle to the hub. This is under a little cap in the center of the hub that can be removed with a screwdriver. I was able to do my axle without removing the brake hose, if you can do this as well you don't have to bleed the brakes when it's all put back together. You may have to turn the wheels left or right to finagle the old shaft out and to get the new shaft in. First remove the brake hose from the strut with the hammer and screw driver. Next remove the 32MM nut in the center of the hub with the large socket and the breaker bar. You might have to bend that little tab that keeps the nut from backing out before the nut will come off easily. Now open the hood or get under the car and locate the hole that contains the pin on the output shaft of the tranny. Put a tap (Or allen wrench) in the hole and smack it with the hammer to remove the pin. Now remove the lower strut mount bolts (The top one should be eccentric, so mark this with a Sharpie to make sure your alignment is at least in the ball park). These are the bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the knuckle. An impact wrench would make things go a lot easier if you have access to one. With the bolts removed gently tap the strut to get the mount off the knuckle. Turn the wheels either left or right, whichever gives you more clearance and finagle the shaft out of the car. You can tap on the end of the shaft that sticks through the hub with the hammer to get it started. You can push the lower control arm down to slide the shaft out of the hub also. Once you get one side of the shaft out the other side should slide right off. Next install the new shaft (Which may be more difficult than removing the old one). Tap in the new pin (You may need to squeeze the pin with pliers to get it started) with the screwdriver and the hammer. I generally get the pin started with the shaft out of the car first. This makes it easier. Be sure you have the hole in the output shaft lined up with the hole in the CV shaft. Bolt up the strut and make sure the upper bolt is aligned with the marks you made earlier before tightening it down. Attach the brake hose now so you don't forget to do it later. Put the new 32MM bolt back on the end of the shaft that slides through the hub and tap the flange down into the groove so it doesn't back out when you're driving. Put the little cap back on the hub and stick the wheel back on the car. Viola! You're good to go. If I forgot something feel free to correct me.

 

For the ball joint you'll need a metric socket set or box wrenches, a crow bar (Or a long hefty screwdriver), maybe a hammer, and I think that should be it.'

[blackfang]

Nice writeup. Good thing you mentioned to peen the axle nut to keep it from backing out. Many forget to do that.

[gathermewool]

Thanks for the write up! I'll try to take off next Saturday to get it done.

 

Blackfang, can you please stop posting? I still have IT nightmares every now and again. I never finished IT as a kid I was so afraid. I didn't finally finish the movie and realize IT was really just some stupid light-brite-bellied monster until I was into my 20s.

[blackfang]

Thanks for the write up! I'll try to take off next Saturday to get it done.

 

Blackfang, can you please stop posting? I still have IT nightmares every now and again. I never finished IT as a kid I was so afraid. I didn't finally finish the movie and realize IT was really just some stupid light-brite-bellied monster until I was into my 20s.

[blackfang]

Just so you get enough of IT

[gathermewool]

Thanks...ya jerk

[blackfang]

[gathermewool]

Can you guys recommend a brand for ball joints (and axle)? I should have ordered everything Monday for this weekend - one of my last free weekends for a bit : ( - but things have been busy. I'm less worried about the axle selection since most I saw online had a 7 year something, something warranty which is good enough for me.

 

I checked online and moog had a couple of good reviews, but let's be honest. Most people rate these kinds of things immediately after install, not 6 months down the road : / It may not even matter, but I'd still like some opinions from you guys (and gals ; ) ) who've done this before. Thanks!

[Platinum_Racing]

Moog parts can be ordered from most NAPA stores. I reccommend Moog for good quality and engineering. They can sometimes cost considerably more though, so if you plan on making the car last for a couple years it shouldn't be a problem to just go with generic store brand parts, but if you're looking to never have to replace these parts again Mood is a good choice.

[gathermewool]

Moog it is : ) Hopefully I'll be able to tackle this Saturday

[gathermewool]

I went to the shop today with axle and ball joints at the ready. Unfortunately, during the pre-job inspection I noticed a small, pinhead-sized hole in the front cat right at the O2 bung weld. Sure enough, she leaked nice and good when I started the car. It seems like the leak is directed more forward than toward the inner CV shaft boot, but it may have accelerated the failure. Either way, I need to figure out a few things before I continue.

 

The cat-back is only a couple of years old, but I have no idea how old the cats are. Some of the welds in the catted section look pretty crappy - the cats may not be original. Also, the flanges all look pretty rusted, but the bolts between the headers and catted section as well as the from the catted section to the mid-pipe aren't corroded or rusted at all. I still have the raw fuel smell at cold start up, especially when cold, and the car seems to run noticeably better when at temp than cold. I've also got the mysterious P0400 (EGR malfunction) code.

 

Options:

 

1. Replace both cats with two aftermarket OEM-equivalent replacements.

 

2. Replace both cats with one high-flow cat.

 

3. JB Weld the bung hole (no pun intended )

 

4. Say to hell with it and sell it to my kid brother for $500, including the shaft an ball joints.

 

I've searched around online for cats, but I can't tell a good brand from a bad; something that will last me 20k mi. vs something that will far outlive the car. I've got near 200k mi. now, but I'm hoping for at least another 40k. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

[eekay]

Weld the bung hole! There's no reason to spend $500-$800 on expensive cats if your current cats are still working. Also, if you're going to replace them, I would stick with the 2-cat setup because 1) Going from a 2-cat to a 1-cat system is illegal (depending on your emissions standards/state laws) and 2) Subbies tend to throw fits about aftermarket cat systems.

 

As far as the OBD code, have you pulled your EGR and cleaned it out yet? Very simple procedure for even the n00best of car mechanics. If you have, how did the lines going to/coming from the EGR look? Have you replaced the lines? Is there anything loose? Just a couple simple things to begin diagnosing. Good luck!

[slickfast]

Platinum when I did my axle I just left the strut alone, have you ever done that? I didn't want to mess with the alignment so I just unbolted the tie rod, swaybar, and ball joint and just let the strut hang. It was insanely easy this way, and I was free to move the strut around as needed to get the axle in/out. Maybe I'll do a DIY next time (the drivers side front is going to need one in the sort of near future)

[gathermewool]

Weld the bung hole! There's no reason to spend $500-$800 on expensive cats if your current cats are still working. Also, if you're going to replace them, I would stick with the 2-cat setup because 1) Going from a 2-cat to a 1-cat system is illegal (depending on your emissions standards/state laws) and 2) Subbies tend to throw fits about aftermarket cat systems.

 

As far as the OBD code, have you pulled your EGR and cleaned it out yet? Very simple procedure for even the n00best of car mechanics. If you have, how did the lines going to/coming from the EGR look? Have you replaced the lines? Is there anything loose? Just a couple simple things to begin diagnosing. Good luck!

 

I've got an appointment to have a shop I trust weld a bead over the hole Monday for $35. I'm still not sure whether my aging cats possibly have something to do with the PO400 code. If I have to replace them I'll replace with an OEM-type, two-cat setup, I'm sure.

 

I've checked EVERYTHING in the EGR system. I've replaced all vacuum lines, the Xducer, - unfortunately I listened to some one I trusted and replaced this even though the EGR worked perfectly when I blipped the throttle - and cleaned the EGR valve. I had to replace the line from the #4 manifold area to the EGR inlet since the fitting was leaking badly. All in all, the system operation did not change, but the effect did. Initially, the car would noticeably, but not substantially stumble when I opened the EGR valve at idle. After cleaning the EGR valve and replacing the line the car would nearly stall when I opened the valve at idle. The weird thing is that the P0400 code would come in sporadically in the beginning, but became more frequent, and has been on solid for the past 8 months.

[Platinum_Racing]

I don't think the hole accelerated the wear of the shaft one bit to be honest.

 

+1 for welding the cat. You can always replace it again later........

(Devious smile)...

Or just cut the top off the cat with an offset grinder and a cutoff wheel, gut all the inards out, weld the top back on then weld the cat back in. That's a quick how to for a catless catalytic converter! But it's illegal... Just as only using one cat on a vehicle equipped with two. When it comes to EGR and catalytic converter systems, there really isn't much you're allowed to do. The good news is the government also requires all cats sold in this country to come with a minimum 5 year warranty last I knew.

 

As far as replacing the CV shaft with the strut on, I can see how it's possible, but I was happy with just getting an alignment afterwards... She was long overdue for one anyway. I just put the bolt in so the alignment was in the ballpark then set up an alignment the following week and it was all good.

 

Every time I've ever done a CV shaft I just took the extra time to undo the strut mounts. It's two bolts. Meh, whatever gets the job done in the end I suppose.

[slickfast]

Yeah, I was just wondering since it seemed pretty straight forward. Whatever works though!

[eekay]

I've got an appointment to have a shop I trust weld a bead over the hole Monday for $35. I'm still not sure whether my aging cats possibly have something to do with the PO400 code. If I have to replace them I'll replace with an OEM-type, two-cat setup, I'm sure.

 

I've checked EVERYTHING in the EGR system. I've replaced all vacuum lines, the Xducer, - unfortunately I listened to some one I trusted and replaced this even though the EGR worked perfectly when I blipped the throttle - and cleaned the EGR valve. I had to replace the line from the #4 manifold area to the EGR inlet since the fitting was leaking badly. All in all, the system operation did not change, but the effect did. Initially, the car would noticeably, but not substantially stumble when I opened the EGR valve at idle. After cleaning the EGR valve and replacing the line the car would nearly stall when I opened the valve at idle. The weird thing is that the P0400 code would come in sporadically in the beginning, but became more frequent, and has been on solid for the past 8 months.

Well, just keep it going for a bit and see if that OBD code turns itself off. Otherwise, just reset/erase the current code(s) and see if anything comes back. It can take up to a week for the codes to go away depending on distance and type of driving.

[gathermewool]

Well, just keep it going for a bit and see if that OBD code turns itself off. Otherwise, just reset/erase the current code(s) and see if anything comes back. It can take up to a week for the codes to go away depending on distance and type of driving.

 

Would a year be sufficient? Haha