korntera Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 What would you recomend for track day rotors? My current brake setup is Hawk HPS pads F/R, SS Brake lines and ATE Superfluid. My front rotors are slightly worped and need to be changed but i don't know if i should get some cheap replacement rotors or if i should go with a nice set of $260 slotted front rotors. I do not want cross drilled. Currently I don't get brake fade during 30 minute sessions and will probably be going to a track only pad with these new rotors and going back to hps pads when im not on track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 The stock rotors do fine until you need better cooling. Switching to DBA 4000's all around on my car made a big improvement in cooling since I am running more power than stock and the brake temps are lower than when I had stock rotors. The cooling vane design on the DBA's is much better. I have not tried the cheap rotors yet. I run Carbotech XP8 track pads with the DBA's and they work well together. I have been using the XP8's on the street too the past couple months. The slots seem to accelerate the pad wear slightly but the rotor face and pads stay cleaner. Brake torque seems about the same as the stock rotors. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 If you're going to track-day-only pads, you should consider track-day-only rotors. If you switch pads for track days, you'll have to re-bed the pads on the rotors every time you switch. That's why I use cheap OEM blank rotors from brakeswap.com for my track setup. I change pads and rotors as a unit before going to the track. Bedding pads can be tricky, and if you screw up, you'll have a pulsating brake pedal all day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Good point. I'll comment that once you bed pads enough times, you get a pretty good "feel" for it. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul_Good Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 If you're going to track-day-only pads, you should consider track-day-only rotors. If you switch pads for track days, you'll have to re-bed the pads on the rotors every time you switch. That's why I use cheap OEM blank rotors from brakeswap.com for my track setup. I change pads and rotors as a unit before going to the track. Bedding pads can be tricky, and if you screw up, you'll have a pulsating brake pedal all day. I used to do this alot too, but it got old. I too use the brakeswap rotors but I only switch pads and have not had the problem i was afraid of having. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korntera Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 Good point. I'll comment that once you bed pads enough times, you get a pretty good "feel" for it. Eh I have done enough of it to know how to properly bed them. It seems like mostt people I talk to only do pads and have not had a problem yet. As for the added cooling im sure it wouldn't hurt, im only stage 1 power wise but with track pads i will be creating more heat and using my brakes a bit harder so im kinda leaning towards the DBA 4000's since my plan is to go with a larger turbo down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 I stick in the same "family" of pads and have no issues...e.g. Carbotech in my case. I run XP8 (or Bobcat) on the street, then slap in XP12 on the track. Haven't had any issues. I personally don't care for the stock rotors, and I do like slotted rotors (just seems to keep the pads a little fresher...I don't care about a small amount more of wear or pad loss (it's only been slight if anything)). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Your rotors aren't warped and my guess is you're putting too much heat into the HPS, especially in a 30 minute session, causing uneven pad deposits. At the very least, upgrade to a proper track pad for track days, and keep your HPS for the street. I swap pads before and after each event and the additional bed-on procedure is no big deal. Certainly easier than removing all four calipers to install different rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew888 Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Great wearing blanks can be found at your local NAPA autoparts. So, since we are sort of on topic, and have several 'track guys' in the room.... list your bed in process so it's clear. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 list your bed in process so it's clear. Stoptech Hawk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul_Good Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Great wearing blanks can be found at your local NAPA autoparts. So, since we are sort of on topic, and have several 'track guys' in the room.... list your bed in process so it's clear. 5 hard stops from 70-75mph, then let them cool off per the carbotech instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korntera Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Your rotors aren't warped and my guess is you're putting too much heat into the HPS, especially in a 30 minute session, causing uneven pad deposits. At the very least, upgrade to a proper track pad for track days, and keep your HPS for the street. I swap pads before and after each event and the additional bed-on procedure is no big deal. Certainly easier than removing all four calipers to install different rotors. Nope they are definatly warped. Its not just on the track you can feel them shake a little bit under any stopping even before i switched to HPS pads. Had another person drive my car and they said the same thing so I do need new rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paisan Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Car rotors don't warp, however the pad deposits may be more than a rebedding in will do for you. Personally I track my car a lot, usually 3+ days a month. Go with Centric Rotors and Hawk HP+ pads. I ran DBA4000s with the HP+ pads and they started to crack just as quickly as my Centrics. I'd personally switch to HP+ before even replacing your rotors unless you are over 50k miles. If you are over 50k miles, then swap out the rotors for centrics (in the $80 range) and Hawk HP+ pads and you'll be in god shape. I ran the Centrics w/HP+ up to stage 1. I recently got a great deal on brembos so I swapped them out but only because I got a good deal. Even with my brembos I run centric rotors! -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Nope they are definatly warped. Its not just on the track you can feel them shake a little bit under any stopping even before i switched to HPS pads. Had another person drive my car and they said the same thing so I do need new rotors. Your rotors aren't warped on the track, or on the street, regardless of who's behind the wheel. Unless your test driver is a metallurgist, his opinion is no more valid than mine, so let the experts settle this. With that said, your rotors may be beyond what can repaired by a pad bed-in if the uneven deposits have been in place for too long as already mentioned by Paisan. If that's the case, indeed, new rotors may be required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korntera Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Well if they arn't warped they are messed up. I bought the car 3k miles ago and they shuddered and didn't brake very smoothly so i put on new pads, lines and fluid and did a proper bed in of the pads and it helped a little bit but not much. I have since done two track days and they still shudder a bit so they need to be replaced at this point. Car has 71k miles on it and they are probably the stock rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Well if they arn't warped they are messed up.Agreed. If you're going to be tracking, certainly a rotor with better cooling would be a worthwhile upgrade, regardless of your existing rotors' condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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