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Tweeter mounting bracket


blue_obxt

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For those of you that have installed component speakers, what did you do about mounting the tweeter? I took off one of the front door panels in my '05 Outback this weekend, and it looked to me like the stock tweeter is glued to it's mounting bracket. Has anyone found a good way to reuse this bracket, or did you make some sort of replacement?

 

On the positive side, I was able to make a template of the woofer mount. It looks like it shouldn't be too hard to make a spacer out of MDF.

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When I replaced stock with Boston Acoustic pro 6.5's, they came with new mounting brackets and spacers. One thing to note. I will be doing some sound deadening in the door panels. With the more efficient speakers came a subtle harmonic that now can be heard when mucis hits a certain frequency.
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So did your replacement brackets attach to the metal of the door (where the stock brackets attach) or did they mount to the door panel in some way?

 

Thanks for the heads up on the sound deadening. I figured that might become an issue once I upgrade.

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When I replaced stock with Boston Acoustic pro 6.5's, they came with new mounting brackets and spacers. One thing to note. I will be doing some sound deadening in the door panels. With the more efficient speakers came a subtle harmonic that now can be heard when mucis hits a certain frequency.

 

How would you rate the sound quality with the Boston pros compared to stock speakers?

 

Is the rest of the audio system stock?

 

Thanks.

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When I replaced stock with Boston Acoustic pro 6.5's, they came with new mounting brackets and spacers. One thing to note. I will be doing some sound deadening in the door panels. With the more efficient speakers came a subtle harmonic that now can be heard when mucis hits a certain frequency.

 

Boston Pro's more efficient than stock? :eek: Not a chance.

 

What you are hearing is real bass out of the door now which is causing resonance. You should apply some soundmat to the inner skin and the outer panel. You don't need to do a lot of it - do the knock test to find the most resonant areas. The soundmat adds mass which lowers the resonant frequency.

soundmat + Boston Pro's + outboard amp = no need for a subwoofer :cool:

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Hello, yes I should have said more true rather than more efficient. You actually have to turn the stock head unit up more to achieve the same volume. It is correct that these speakers are heavier on the bass. I have the factory sub and it really seems to be struggling keeping up with the Boston's. The speakers have a much flatter more true sound. High hats are more crisp and snare hits sound more sharp. The compressed range of the stock speakers is very apparent now. A good more powerful stand alone amp will further clean up the bass frequencies. After all I am after clean studio monitor type sound rather than processed signals.

 

I am waiting for the CleanSweep to come out and then will add either a 4 channel JL amp or the Boston Acoustic 4 channel. I have not decided on their placement yet, but may use the area above the spare with a moveable box. At that time, I will add Dynomat sparingly to the door panels to try and eliminate resonance. I believe I will only do this to the front doors though and not the rears. There is quite a bit of space behind the door panels for sound to reverberate, I was actually pretty shocked by the room.

 

Overall, the replacement was a great move. I just hate waiting to put the rest of the system together. :rolleyes:

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