Malingator Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Hey all...well I installed my XO FMIC over the weekend pretty much issue free during the install. Problem...if / when the car hits boost, the pipes (driver side) seperate. First few times was at back of motor. Next was pipe right next to the battery. No matter how tight I make the clamps..boost ='s pop..no air..no running motor.. Any ideas??????????? HELP!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srgdrum Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Try spraying the pipe ends with hairspray to lube up the couplers and get them seated very well. Then clamp the hell out of 'em. as the hairspray dries it will get tacky and help the silicone stay in place. hope that helps. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Just as a starter, Do you have a T-Bolt Clamps or Worm Gear Clamps? I know it is something very basic but Worm Gear Clamps might not be enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malingator Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 It's T clamps..so far everyone is voting for hairspray..gonna have a buddy run some up and gice it a try as soon as baby takes nap..will give a update.. Also..I hit boost once before it blew...it was MUCH louder..almost like had a VTA BOV..any ideas on that one?? Kept stock BOV... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeislord Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 It's not uncommon for it to get louder. Might as well double check all your lines while you're in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Yea, my pipes popped under heavy load and I thought it was end of my life... But anyway, if you have spare cash to dish out, you might want a welder to put some lips (Or bead) on the end of the pipe to make it less slippery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 I too had a "little heart attack" everytime a pipe would blow... The pipe that connects on the turn after the TB gave me that problem many times..I ended up going with a "Hump Coupler" and never had the problem again. Bought the coupler here : http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=21263&cat=1536&page=1 The rest of the connections just need to be tightened down REALLY hard. Knock on wood, after the first week of pipes popping off, I never had any more problems..although I always have tools in the trunk just in case. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Also..I hit boost once before it blew...it was MUCH louder..almost like had a VTA BOV..any ideas on that one?? Kept stock BOV... I am running a recirculating greddy BOV and it sounds just as loud as a VTA..the loudness I guess is normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 i always have tools in the trunk just in case. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srgdrum Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 I forgot I had a shop drop a few tacks on the pipe ends that aren't bead rolled. I'm sure that helps with grip for the silicone. Just plain silly that they didn't bead roll each end of each pipe. That Hump Coupler looks a good idea too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 I too had a "little heart attack" everytime a pipe would blow... The pipe that connects on the turn after the TB gave me that problem many times..I ended up going with a "Hump Coupler" and never had the problem again. Good luck. Dude, for all I know, this is the only 4" long Hump Coupler that I know. It's awsome but ended not using it. Up for sale to the OP if you are interested! 2.75 inch ID. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShockerGT Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 You could go to a welder and have them make you something like this. http://amsteam.net/files/22/bluedemon_061308_01%20copy.jpg That's what I plan on doing when I do an FMIC. You won't have to worry about them coming off. You could also look into these: http://www.hargettprecision.com/index.php?cPath=50&osCsid=b0eb1337dc7507d0fa3756b9bada0ea5 Cheaper solution than using Wiggins clamps. DSport magazine did a write up on the Hargetts and had nothing but good things to say about them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireB Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Gee, how much boost is that thing running to need something like that?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 A little over kill...yes, but that is a pretty good solution...especially for the connections that sit behind the bumper..Considering, if the connection behind the bumper fails, you need to get towed unless you feel like removing the bumper skin while on the side of the road somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShockerGT Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Gee, how much boost is that thing running to need something like that?! It's one of AMS' customer cars, it going to be a track car with a similar power plant to their old time attack Evo. It makes around 650whp @ 30psi on Q16 race fuel. A little over kill...yes, but that is a pretty good solution...especially for the connections that sit behind the bumper..Considering, if the connection behind the bumper fails, you need to get towed unless you feel like removing the bumper skin while on the side of the road somewhere. Exactly. I know I'll be doing a rotated 35R eventually and I'm at the point where I will spend a little more for added security instead of having to get towed home to fix my car or be stranded on the side of the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malingator Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 Thanks for all the help..I took the whole driver side apart, cleaned with alcohol, hairsprayed and on the bend that kept blowing off, I used some Indian Head gasket sealer. I'm guessing with the t-clamps it should hold. Did a few laps around my block but the snow and my new RE-01's are not getting along too well.. So far hit boost and held it to red line 2nd and 3rd gear and held solid. If comes apart again gonna flair the end with a tail pipe expander..should be a cheap easy fix that way...if not gonna do a bead weld around the end of each pipe and be done with it.. For now time to travel with tools in the trunk..LOL THANKS ALL..will keep ya updated..will post some pics when we have a nice day agin... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integroid Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 Just a FYI - I have a hump hose as well on the last coupler before the throttle body and never blew off a hose with my rotated setup and the XO2 FMIC. This is running 22-23 psi of boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 I never had a hose blow off my X02, you really need to tighten those t clamps down tight. Which connection goes, the one by the coolant bottle or the one by the fuel lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 I would lose the one by the fuel lines..until I got the hump coupler. Otherwise it would last a day or 2 and then pop off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 If you overtighten the clamps you will begin to crush the ALUMINUM piping and then you have a whole other set of issues. OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I would lose the one by the fuel lines..until I got the hump coupler. Otherwise it would last a day or 2 and then pop off. That is the shitiest connection to get correct. I slid the hose forward to expose the actual pipe ends, align them so the mate flush. The hairspray is down right silly. Get some 80 grit sandpaper and rough up the two pipes where the connector hose fits,( although you shouldn't have to), line them up correctly, make sure your clamp is actually clamping the pipe and torque the t bolt clamps until you start to see the silicone hose just start to squish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 1) If you do have T-Bolt clamps, then there is no way you are overtightening them. A T-bolt clamp, if it's the right size, can exert enough force to crush an aluminum intercooler pipe. 2) Does the X0 kit have welded or rolled lips on the ends of the pipes? If not, that's a major contributor to the popping off issue. 3) Hairspray is great. 4) Worm clamps are NEVER OK. Not only do they like to chew up silicone couplers, but by design it is impossible to get them tight enough. The ARC intercoolers use raised worm type clamps that don't chew up silicone, but they also use two per side of the coupler. Really ghetto. Spend $50 on T-Bolt clamps and properly install them. 5) If you can weld aluminum, consider making two pipes into one pipe. The fewer internal flow obstructions, the better off you'll be. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integroid Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Serisouly, go buy a $15 hump hose by the fuel lines and it will solve the popping off problems. I haven't had any problems with hoses popping off running 22psi of boost with a rotated turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malingator Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 My new issue...OK..as there is no BOV flange on the pipe.. I have a Perrin 100% recir BOV BUT no flange to weld onto the pipe to get it to fit. I couldn't find one on Perrin site and sent them a email and am awaiting a reply. Anyone have an idea?? I can't get tuned until the BOV issue is solved... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 You will probably need a custom flange welded on. I don't think there are any LGT specific flanges out there (I may be wrong). I ended up going with a Greddy Type RS and I use a recurclating fitting...works perfect and it comes with the flange to weld to the IC piping. The car is drivable without the BOV? I would imagine you are getting a ton of compressor surge? Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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