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Stereo install specific q's


FrozenNorthLGT

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Ok so I have a 2.5 gt sedan with auto climate controls blah blah blah. I've done a ton of research on this but couldnt find answers to a few specifics so I'm going to post what I've learned, and what Im hoping someone can tell me, mostly because Id rather have everything I need before I tear my car apart to do the install. I have a fairly good background with car electronics having been into stereo competition for several years. Im just looking for the advice/opinion of those more expirienced than myself, or that have at least taken this car apart.

 

My idea is to install my deck (primer deh-680mp) in the cubby location like the AVO kit does, but custom make the "kit." Im good with fiberglass and bondo and have done work with plastic so this shouldnt be a big issue. I have a sirius tuner that I plan on wiring in while im in the dash. It's currently using its own fm modulator (weak), so I plan on using a metra 44fmmod02 (powered switchable modulator), and 4sb30 (subaru antenna adapters) to hardwire that.

 

One thing I cant find a definative answer to is with the auto controls, does the car still use the normal subaru plug ins (metra 70-8901 and 71-8901)? And if so, is there a seperate plug in for power and control of the HVAC, or does it draw power from the radio plug in. If they use seperate plug ins then I will simply extend the wiring up to the cubby from a 70-8901 plugged into the factory plug in, and have the antenna run through the modulator. If it shares a plug in then there might be a bit more hardwiring in store, but still no biggie.

 

As far as speakers, I seem to find that 6.5's are the size, front and back doors. With a max of 2" depth or spacers are needed. Should spacers be needed, anyone know the space available behind the door panels to extend the speakers outward?

 

One last thing, havent looked real hard but is there a nice place to run power through the firewall? Planning on 1/0 gauge since I have it around from my last vehicle, and I didnt see any place when I had part of the dash down doing my remote starter install.

 

Thanks for takign the time to read, and for any help. Like I said, I just want to have everything ready when I begin my install (that never happens anyways...lol). :rolleyes:

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Excellent place to run 1/0 or smaller in GTs: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1312191&postcount=15

 

The radio has its own power (and speaker) connections. A standard Metra cable is all you need. Just tap your wires for the Sirius tuner, etc there.

 

I'm running Quarts (hate them) with 1" of spacers. They just clear the window at 2.5" deep. There's plenty of room on the panel side for the woofer, however, a coax-mounted tweet is within a few mm of the panel.

 

Highly recommend sealing off the openings in the door for more midbass along with the usual Dynamat Xtreme.

 

I recommend getting a set of plastic trim removal pieces (Eastwood has some) for the chrome center shift surround. Or at least be very careful with metal to avoid scratching the paint.

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Wow! I didnt expect so much help in just one post...lol. Thanks.

 

That looks like a great place to run the wire, I didnt pull back any of the foam on the firewall, so I didnt notice the grommet.

 

With the radio plug disconnected and run up to my HU; the HVAC will still work fine correct? Just making sure.

 

I have a set of Kicker RS components for the fronts (from my old stereo comp car), so no midrange clearance issues there (with prob about one inch of spacer too since they have some big baskets for 6.5's). Havent decided on the rear doors yet since I just learned that they are 6.5 as well.

 

As for sound/vibraton deadening/dampening I use Second Skin. A buddy of mine runs a stereo shop in town, another friend works there, and we've used it on his Street Class car with good results. Plus he has it on his STI and it made a huge imporvement there. Rattling doors, it's what makes a Subaru a Subaru...lol

 

Oh and thanks for the tip on the shifter bezel removal.

 

Last thing for now, you seem to know your audio stuff, any personal experience with Metra's FM modulator as far as signal quality when direct connected?

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No experience with the FM Modulator, but why not spend a little extra coin and get the Sirius module (and maybe iPod) for your h/u if available? Less headache and no additional mounting of the extra tuner interface.

 

Now I'm second-guessing the power issue, since it's been a while that I've had mine out. Though it wouldn't make sense from a power standpoint to have both the radio and a/c on the same circuit fuse-wise. I think you'll be fine. Worse comes to worse, just tap the wires (use male and female Metra plugs) for your extra stuff.

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Yeah Ive been debating on the actual sirius module for the HU, havent even looked recently to see how much they are. I probably should given Id be up around a hundred just for the modulator and antenna adapters.

 

As for the power issue its not really a huge problem either way. Ill get a into car harness before hand, and once I get in there if they share a plug, or at least power, then I can just get power/acc/etc. from the iginition harness. That is all ready tapped and easily identified from doing the remote starter, and extending wires over there wont be a bid deal. As for speaker wires, I'll be running my own anyways, so really Im only looking to get power and memory from the factory harness to save a small amount of time. :rolleyes:

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... does the car still use the normal subaru plug ins (metra 70-8901 and 71-8901)? And if so, is there a seperate plug in for power and control of the HVAC, or does it draw power from the radio plug in. If they use seperate plug ins then I will simply extend the wiring up to the cubby from a 70-8901 plugged into the factory plug in, and have the antenna run through the modulator. ...

Yes, the [2005] stock HU uses the 14-pin type Subaru radio harness (pin-out shown here). A separate square, 8-pin plug provides the data connection to the car's HVAC system.

 

You will need to continue feeding Ground, +12V Accessory, +12V Battery, Illumination +, and Illumination – (Dimmer) to the factory HU for the HVAC functions (and their backlighting) to work. You'll also leave that 8-pin plug connected (for HVAC system control).

 

Before you buy the Metra 70- and 71-8901 harnesses, check that they will have all 14 wires. Usually the Orange/White Dimmer/Illummination – wire (pin 7) is missing. The HU requires that for the backlighting to work. See my homepage link for harnesses guaranteed to have all 14 wires.

 

So you'll need to construct a Y-adapter between the car's harness and the two HUs (OEM and new), using the 14-wire forward and reverse harnesses plus the harness that comes with your new HU.

 

I'm sure you already know the following, but for others who read this thread...

 

Connect the car's power antenna control wire only to the new HU.

 

If your new HU has a dimmer wire (the DEH-680MP does), you'll also connect that to the Orange wire between the forward and reverse harnesses.

 

Rather than getting the Metra FM modulator, you could also connect your Sirius tuner's line-level outputs to the [aftermarket] HU's rear Aux input. From the Pioneer's operation manual: "Use an IP-BUS-RCA Interconnector such as the CD-RB20/CD-RB10 (sold separately)." The latter is less expensive than the Metra FM modulator, and will sound better.

 

Then you can use a Subaru-to-Motorola antenna adapter (Metra 40-SB10 or equivalent), to connect the car's proprietary antenna plug to the new HU. Much cheaper than the 40-SB30 kit that has both genders.

 

For other people who still have an available aux input on the HU, you do have the option to continue using the factory HU for its CD changer. Connect one pair of the OEM HU's speaker outputs (typically the rears [correction -- it's better to use the front channels]) through a Line Out Converter (LOC) and into the new HU's Aux input.

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As far as speakers, I seem to find that 6.5's are the size, front and back doors. With a max of 2" depth or spacers are needed. Should spacers be needed, anyone know the space available behind the door panels to extend the speakers outward?

 

I'm using a full 1" spacer for some very deep Focals and initially had some Xmax buzzing issues, seems the space between panel & door frame is about 1.5" total or so. It was correctable with foam weatherstripping. I was able to use .5" spacers for some previous Quarts with no issues.

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I'm using a full 1" spacer for some very deep Focals and initially had some Xmax buzzing issues, seems the space between panel & door frame is about 1.5" total or so. It was correctable with foam weatherstripping. I was able to use .5" spacers for some previous Quarts with no issues.

 

I had the same issues using 3/4" spacers for my Morel Hybrid Ovations (app. 2.4" mount depth with large baskets). Cutting away at some of the plastic around the grill opening seemed to help as well as removing one of the screws around that area.

 

I still feel like the speaker is coming into contact slightly at x-max, but havnt had time to get in there to investigate/fix it. Where did you place your weatherstripping? Around the outside of the speaker like a lot of stock speakers utilize?

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SVX...Awesome info!....I already decided to just leave the original plug in for the radio intact, Im just going to get power/mem/acc, from the ignition harness. Once I get in there it wont take much to tap and run over from there, especially since Ive already been in there for my starter. I can tap Ill. from the factory harness, and the seperate dimmer isnt really a concern since the HU has plenty of brightness adjustability. The cdrb10 looks perfect, and cheap! Never even thought of going that route. Sicne I wont be running a modulator I will definatly go with a 40sb10, but I know Ive heard mention that it's not long enough to reach up to the cubby?...I suppost I can just get a standard antenna extension from there though.
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... you could also connect your Sirius tuner's line-level outputs to the HU's rear Aux input. From the Pioneer's operation manual: "Use an IP-BUS-RCA Interconnector such as the CD-RB20/CD-RB10 (sold separately)."

 

Does this CD-RB10 plug into the 8-pin connector for the "07 radio"

(aka. P204-UH) that is described in ??

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50364&highlight=specb

 

Never mind. Doesn't look like the same connector. Are you talking about using this

with an after-market HU ??

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Does this CD-RB10 plug into the 8-pin connector for the "07 radio" (aka. P204-UH) that is described in ??

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50364&highlight=specb

 

Never mind. Doesn't look like the same connector. Are you talking about using this with an after-market HU ??

 

Yes — the Pioneer CD-RB10 provides an Aux input (via RCA jacks) for aftermarket Pioneer HUs that have an IP-Bus connector. The IP-Bus socket is primarily for Pioneer's external CD changer, but also for their satellite receivers.

 

The more expensive CD-RB20 adds a pass-through port, so you can have both the Aux input and still connect an external device (CD changer or satellite receiver).

 

You've stumbled into yet another option: If your stock HU has an aux input (2007 or later), you could connect an aftermarket satellite receiver there, then connect the stock HU's speakers (via a LOC) to the aux input of an aftermarket radio (mounted in the cubby). That would give you all of the aftermarket HU's capabilities, plus the stock HU's CD changer and the satellite radio.

 

But user-interface-wise, it would be preferable to have a satellite receiver that works with your aftermarket HU — so you can do the tuning and see the text on your HU, rather than a dash-mounted outboard satellite tuner unit.

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See I can understand that some people prefer it that way, but me personally, I like having the actual sirius dock and play tuner to see channel and song info on. Id rather just use that and input into the aux on the deck. That's just me though, and I tend to do things unconventionally. :rolleyes:
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See I can understand that some people prefer it that way, but me personally, I like having the actual sirius dock and play tuner to see channel and song info on. Id rather just use that and input into the aux on the deck. That's just me though, and I tend to do things unconventionally. :rolleyes:

 

You rebel !

 

But yes, I feel the same way. The user interface on the iPod is way

better than the one on HUs, IMHO, and I'd rather just use it (that's if

I ever get an iPod).

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  • 7 years later...
Yes, the [2005] stock HU uses the 14-pin type Subaru radio harness (pin-out shown here). A separate square, 8-pin plug provides the data connection to the car's HVAC system.

 

You will need to continue feeding Ground, +12V Accessory, +12V Battery, Illumination +, and Illumination – (Dimmer) to the factory HU for the HVAC functions (and their backlighting) to work. You'll also leave that 8-pin plug connected (for HVAC system control).

 

Before you buy the Metra 70- and 71-8901 harnesses, check that they will have all 14 wires. Usually the Orange/White Dimmer/Illummination – wire (pin 7) is missing. The HU requires that for the backlighting to work. See my homepage link for harnesses guaranteed to have all 14 wires.

 

So you'll need to construct a Y-adapter between the car's harness and the two HUs (OEM and new), using the 14-wire forward and reverse harnesses plus the harness that comes with your new HU.

 

I'm sure you already know the following, but for others who read this thread...

 

Connect the car's power antenna control wire only to the new HU.

 

If your new HU has a dimmer wire (the DEH-680MP does), you'll also connect that to the Orange wire between the forward and reverse harnesses.

 

Rather than getting the Metra FM modulator, you could also connect your Sirius tuner's line-level outputs to the [aftermarket] HU's rear Aux input. From the Pioneer's operation manual: "Use an IP-BUS-RCA Interconnector such as the CD-RB20/CD-RB10 (sold separately)." The latter is less expensive than the Metra FM modulator, and will sound better.

 

Then you can use a Subaru-to-Motorola antenna adapter (Metra 40-SB10 or equivalent), to connect the car's proprietary antenna plug to the new HU. Much cheaper than the 40-SB30 kit that has both genders.

 

For other people who still have an available aux input on the HU, you do have the option to continue using the factory HU for its CD changer. Connect one pair of the OEM HU's speaker outputs (typically the rears [correction -- it's better to use the front channels]) through a Line Out Converter (LOC) and into the new HU's Aux input.

 

I saw this post was updated recently. Are you still around SVX96? I need those harnesses...

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